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Arrow Spine Help

536 Views 15 Replies 7 Participants Last post by  NovemberWhitetailz
Friend of mine is looking for a little arrow spine advice. His budget doesn't allow for total replacement as he just bought this dozen before last season.
Hoyt Alpha max 35
63lb weight
29 or 29.5" draw (he's not sure)
Easton FMJ 340 cut to 29"
100 gr rage
I'm coming up with around 475 TAW

He's looking to move away from Mechanical to a Fixed but also increase his FOC a little without being too weak. I feel he is close as is?
Inserts are glued in so his only options are to get an arrow collar or increase point weight or both.
Is he already too weak? Should he just get a fixed head and forget it or should he buy a couple 125 or 150 grain Field points and see if he can get it to tune. He's a long time hunter but def new to tuning. Had a miss hap on a solid buck last year which is why he's making the move.
Thanks for any help
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When I had the Am35, I was shooting 390/400 spine arrows- 62 pounds, 28.5" draw, 28..5" arrows on the #2 cam (which was more efficient than the #3 cam at 29") 100 grain points with Feathers.

I think he should try some 125 grain field points, I'm guessing he will be fine, especially if he is shooting vanes on the back end.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
When In had the Am35, I was shooting 390/400 spine arrows- 62 pounds, 28.5" draw, 28..5" arrows on the #2 cam (which was more efficient than the #3 cam at 29") 100 grain points with Feathers.

I think he should try some 125 grain field points, I'm guessing he will be fine, especially of he is shooting vanes on the back end.
I would assume just 2" blazer with stock nock. And when I said "should he just get a fixed head and forget it" He's shooting 100 gr mechanical, should he just get 100 gr fixed and not change anything else on the arrow?
 

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I think he fine on spine. And could get away some point weight maybe 20 gr.
Easy fix is get a smaller cut mechanical I'm assuming the rages are 2in. Or get a 100 gr fixed blades I'm a fan of magnus and qad. Then as budget allows it to happen build a new dozen. Imo 475 taw is a lil much at 63 lbs
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I think he fine on spine. And could get away some point weight maybe 20 gr.
Easy fix is get a smaller cut mechanical I'm assuming the rages are 2in. Or get a 100 gr fixed blades I'm a fan of magnus and qad. Then as budget allows it to happen build a new dozen. Imo 475 taw is a lil much at 63 lbs
I agree. I think now he wants to improve this set up a little if he can and run that for the next season or two without spending a lot. Then go a little lighter and stiffer and increase FOC when budget allows.
 

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Friend of mine is looking for a little arrow spine advice. His budget doesn't allow for total replacement as he just bought this dozen before last season.
Hoyt Alpha max 35
63lb weight
29 or 29.5" draw (he's not sure)
Easton FMJ 340 cut to 29"
100 gr rage
I'm coming up with around 475 TAW

He's looking to move away from Mechanical to a Fixed but also increase his FOC a little without being too weak. I feel he is close as is?
Inserts are glued in so his only options are to get an arrow collar or increase point weight or both.
Is he already too weak? Should he just get a fixed head and forget it or should he buy a couple 125 or 150 grain Field points and see if he can get it to tune. He's a long time hunter but def new to tuning. Had a miss hap on a solid buck last year which is why he's making the move.
Thanks for any help
There are too many things being taken for granted here. Best to get back to basics and start the bow/shooter tuning process from scratch. Otherwise you're chasing your tail for poke and hope results that may or may not be accurate or repeatable.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
There are too many things being taken for granted here. Best to get back to basics and start the bow/shooter tuning process from scratch. Otherwise you're chasing your tail for poke and hope results that may or may not be accurate or repeatable.
I've never shot with him so I have no info on his technique. I did tell him to take his bow in and make sure cams are timed and everything is squared. I just felt he already had a weak arrow, especially if his draw is 29.5. Didn't want to waste his time trying to tune an arrow that might already be weak by adding a lot of weight up front and make it weaker.
 

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I've never shot with him so I have no info on his technique. I did tell him to take his bow in and make sure cams are timed and everything is squared. I just felt he already had a weak arrow, especially if his draw is 29.5. Didn't want to waste his time trying to tune an arrow that might already be weak by adding a lot of weight up front and make it weaker.
After the AM35, I had a 72 pound Alphaburner at 28.5 (28", peg out) and used FMJ 340s cut 28.5 with feathers and 100 grain points. It also would tune up with 3-49 ACCs. I was working in a big Hoyt dealer that sold a ****pile of Alphamaxes at that time and really don't see there being a spine issue even at 29.5 and 63 pounds as long as it's tuned properly and the guy doesn't go overboard nuts with FOC like so many people do these days. Stick with 100s and grab some slick tricks if spine is borderline with 125s.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
After the AM35, I had a 72 pound Alphaburner at 28.5 (28", peg out) and used FMJ 340s cut 28.5 with feathers and 100 grain points. It also would tune up with 3-49 ACCs. I was working in a big Hoyt dealer that sold a ****pile of Alphamaxes at that time and really don't see there being a spine issue even at 29.5 and 63 pounds as long as it's tuned properly and the guy doesn't go overboard nuts with FOC like so many people do these days. Stick with 100s and grab some slick tricks if spine is borderline with 125s.
No. I don't think he will due to the already high GPI of the FMJ. I'm just trying to help guide him a little. Guy has a pile of kids and works a ton so free time is limited. I doubt we'd try much more than 50 extra grains up front than what he already has.
 

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No. I don't think he will due to the already high GPI of the FMJ. I'm just trying to help guide him a little. Guy has a pile of kids and works a ton so free time is limited. I doubt we'd try much more than 50 extra grains up front than what he already has.
Understood. That's why I would have him exhaust all avenues with the existing setup first, before shelling out money he most likely does not need to. He should also spin check ALL his FMJs. They definitely will bend and send an arrow awry.
 
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You say the inserts are glued in. If it's anything but super glue you can heat the field tip up slow, like over a candle, and twist as you heat and they'll likely come right out. If they do (and he doesn't stick his index finger up when he shoots) he could probably cut an inch or maybe even an inch and a half off the shaft which would stiffen them up some. Plus it'd lighten them up by 12-15gr. Might not change things too much, but maybe enough to matter. And it'd be basically 0 investment.
I have a lot of 340's which worked ok with 125gr heads cut to my draw length (29) but they were pretty well maxed out. I had no spine to spare. I wanted to add some weight/front end weight but didn't want to buy a bunch of 300's, so I cut my 340's down an inch and half shorter than my draw length which stiffened them up enough I could add another 25 up front. It puts me right in the middle of the green on those spine programs, and I think they fly better than before. Yes my arrow tip is right in the middle of the shelf, which is behind my finger which some ppl see as dangerous, but since I don't stick my fingers up or out when I shoot I have no problems with it. So cutting 1-1.5inch off might be the ticket for your buddy as well--if he keeps his fingers down.
Oh, and if the inserts won't come out but he really wants to try shortening them, he could always cut them off the back end and refletch'em.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
You say the inserts are glued in. If it's anything but super glue you can heat the field tip up slow, like over a candle, and twist as you heat and they'll likely come right out. If they do (and he doesn't stick his index finger up when he shoots) he could probably cut an inch or maybe even an inch and a half off the shaft which would stiffen them up some. Plus it'd lighten them up by 12-15gr. Might not change things too much, but maybe enough to matter. And it'd be basically 0 investment.
I have a lot of 340's which worked ok with 125gr heads cut to my draw length (29) but they were pretty well maxed out. I had no spine to spare. I wanted to add some weight/front end weight but didn't want to buy a bunch of 300's, so I cut my 340's down an inch and half shorter than my draw length which stiffened them up enough I could add another 25 up front. It puts me right in the middle of the green on those spine programs, and I think they fly better than before. Yes my arrow tip is right in the middle of the shelf, which is behind my finger which some ppl see as dangerous, but since I don't stick my fingers up or out when I shoot I have no problems with it. So cutting 1-1.5inch off might be the ticket for your buddy as well--if he keeps his fingers down.
Oh, and if the inserts won't come out but he really wants to try shortening them, he could always cut them off the back end and refletch'em.
We use the same bow shop so I am sure they use the Easton HIT epoxy. That stuff is pretty tough, I've seen how hot you have to get the tips to get the insert out and i'm certain it would damage most. But, cutting it down might be an option. It would def help stiffen it up. I'm just not certain how far down those hit inserts are. I would think 1" would cover it.
I'll check with him on where he places his fingers.
 
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