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I just created an account with Archers Advantage. I plan to build some Victory RIP TKOs. Arrows cut to 28”. 75lb draw and 28.5 draw length. IBO 336

I was planning on using 250 spine.
  • 3 fletch AAE Max Stealth vanes.
  • 100 gr point
  • 130 gr Ethics post and sleeve

total arrow weight around 515

Archers Advantage is saying this shaft is way over spined and recommends 300. But the spine calculator on the victory site recommends 250 spine.

Any input would be appreciated.
 

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I just created an account with Archers Advantage. I plan to build some Victory RIP TKOs. Arrows cut to 28”. 75lb draw and 28.5 draw length. IBO 336

I was planning on using 250 spine.
  • 3 fletch AAE Max Stealth vanes.
  • 100 gr point
  • 130 gr Ethics post and sleeve

total arrow weight around 515

Archers Advantage is saying this shaft is way over spined and recommends 300. But the spine calculator on the victory site recommends 250 spine.

Any input would be appreciated.
For compound bows, you should ALWAYS err on the stiff side of spine!!!!

I guess it's possible to be over spined with a compound but I haven't seen a stiff spine that I couldn't get to tune perfectly....

My daughter is shooting my 350 spine (the same arrows I shot off of my 70# 3D bow 2 years ago) PS23s out of her 34# bow... they fly great and shoot perfect bullet holes!!!!
 

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I just spent a few days tuning my 3d rig, "under spined" arrows tuned and grouped way better than everything else so I guess my form sucks! Bare shafts touching at 30 yds! The "under spined" shaft even shot better with more point weight, started with 85 grain and settle on 125.

Unfortunately the only way to test is to shoot em, I have a bunch of old arrows for this purpose.

The tune was verified with excellent 100 yard groups over many sessions.

I have had other bows in the past perform poorly with a stiff arrow. I know it is not the status quo but it has worked for me several times.
 

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I just spent a few days tuning my 3d rig, "under spined" arrows tuned and grouped way better than everything else so I guess my form sucks! Bare shafts touching at 30 yds! The "under spined" shaft even shot better with more point weight, started with 85 grain and settle on 125.

Unfortunately the only way to test is to shoot em, I have a bunch of old arrows for this purpose.

The tune was verified with excellent 100 yard groups over many sessions.

I have had other bows in the past perform poorly with a stiff arrow. I know it is not the status quo but it has worked for me several times.
Did I miss a post where someone said under spined arrows only group if your form sucks??? (It's possible.... I'm 24 hours into quitting tobacco so I am a bit out of sorts)

I've found that under spined arrows can shoot really well... it just seems like they are more sensitive to tuning and form flaws... In other words, shafts on the stiff side seem to tune easier for me. If my post in any way implied anything different, that was never my intent....
 

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All the charts and programs recommend 300 spine for my set up, just for fun I tested some .260 and they shot, tuned, BS tested way better than the .300
 

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I shoot the GT 30X shafts which are 150 spine and never have any tuning issues. I shoot a 150 grain point in them which wont really break down the spine very much anyway but they fly really well so I don't really think being over spined is an issue.
 

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I just created an account with Archers Advantage. I plan to build some Victory RIP TKOs. Arrows cut to 28”. 75lb draw and 28.5 draw length. IBO 336

I was planning on using 250 spine.
  • 3 fletch AAE Max Stealth vanes.
  • 100 gr point
  • 130 gr Ethics post and sleeve

total arrow weight around 515

Archers Advantage is saying this shaft is way over spined and recommends 300. But the spine calculator on the victory site recommends 250 spine.

Any input would be appreciated.
Archer's Advantage has been wrong for years. It's weird because I've seen so many posts like this. The Victory spine calculator always works perfectly for Victory arrows. You were right the first time. No matter what, 250s will be much more versatile arrows, if you ever want to try heavier broadheads/points. With 230 grains up front and 75# DW, 250 is a better choice.
 

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The most popular 27 series carbon arrow on the market, the Triple X, is 100 spine and people shoot them out of 52-70lb target bows.
The X-cutter is 250 spine, as is the Nine.3. That's massively over spined for a target bow shooting at target poundage and people hit bottle tops at 50 yards with them.

You won't be over-spined with 250s. Tune, shoot, enjoy.
 

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If for hunting - b/heads prefer a stiffer spine.
 
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I'd say the 300s but that's me. I tend to like weaker because it is more forgiving on awkward shots when you can't have perfect form. This is the problem when most guys bare shaft. You can chase your tail if you only shoot one group and adjust. You can really see how much your form affects arrow flight when shooting a bare shaft arrow. So when I have to wrap my back like a pretzel in a stand for a stubborn deer, I know my form is out the window. So I like knowing my arrow will still recover in that situation. Torque tuning your rest to an arrow that isn't to stiff has landed me the best results.
 
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