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montana1329

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
A guy at lancaster told me about these wraps they have made just for X10's that have the lines on them for applying spin wings.
(They're not listed online, but he said are on page 86 of their latest catalog)

Good idea?
 
A guy at lancaster told me about these wraps they have made just for X10's that have the lines on them for applying spin wings.
(They're not listed online, but he said are on page 86 of their latest catalog)

Good idea?
Sounds to me like a great idea!:thumb:
 
Discussion starter · #5 ·
The Socx ones look great. Just put an order in for a set.

If the X10 is barreled - is it easy to put on?

You find the lines are spaced correctly - 120 degrees apart? I imagine if there is any difference in the way it over laps it might change the degree between the lines.
 
Honestly, i don't like that idea much.

My reasons?
1) you need to remember that the spine will change a tad. Not much, but you're arrow will react stiffer.
2) Spin wings are incredibly brittle. After quite a while of shooting, they do tend to develop nicks and the texture of leaves in a New England autumn. You lose one, rather than redoing the one, you'd might have to redo the whole thing.
3) why the hassle? Most of the reason is for looks and for adhesive (to use to wraps).

UNLESS and I mean a big UNLESS, you really have had problems with alignement... and then by all means go ahead.

of course with the second issue I would have, I'd have to say that maybe.... just maybe you can tear the rest of it off and place a new one on there without much of a problem. Just maybe.
 
To be able to determine the distance between the three lines in order to give a 120 degree separation, don't you have to know the diameter of the shaft in which the wrap is to be applied? :confused: Unless it's model and in some cases size specific, how can those wraps be any good for the general shooting public?
 
Discussion starter · #9 ·
To be able to determine the distance between the three lines in order to give a 120 degree separation, don't you have to know the diameter of the shaft in which the wrap is to be applied? :confused: Unless it's model and in some cases size specific, how can those wraps be any good for the general shooting public?
I saw they are diameter specific. Ie. 5.5mm, 8mm, ... or for X10 or ACE
 
Discussion starter · #12 ·
The price for the standard wraps with spinwing lines is roughly $21.66 according to the online currency converters. This includes your name and arrow number printed on it. Shipping looks like $1.55.
Cool - I didnt see the part about your info printed on the wrap. Great idea to have when I lose arrows :)

21.66? Where did you find that deal? On their website the only ones I see you can buy from them are the 35 Euro kind. Euros are at this time 1.36 per dollar.
 
Cool - I didnt see the part about your info printed on the wrap. Great idea to have when I lose arrows :)

21.66? Where did you find that deal? On their website the only ones I see you can buy from them are the 35 Euro kind. Euros are at this time 1.36 per dollar.
Didn't realize it was the Euro. The price I had was for the Netherland Guilder. Price converted from Euro is $47.74.
 
Discussion starter · #15 · (Edited)
Got a set of the socx wraps a couple weeks ago and they are awesome. Got mine from K1. Can't believe this isn't standard issue for everyone using spin wings. Thanks for the recommend pbzmag.

They really speed up the whole spin wing process. I know exactly where the base of the spin wing should go and just follow the line up. With the Beiter spin wing holder to apply the vanes to the tape, the process is about as fast and as exact as I could hope for.

Since I started using the wraps I noticed I don't have to fudge the black tape to secure the wings because they are all level.

I was so sick of using a paint pen and having it leak all over and eventually fade away.

I never used a wrap before and was afraid if it tore I would need to replace the whole thing. I have been working on my form the last couple weeks shooting close range about 10 meters and damaged a bunch of spin wings, but the wraps are pristine.

They are really pretty easy to put on and not as daunting as I thought.

The Beiter instructions suck with these wraps (as they do with every other beiter product I have bought.) So I'll elaborate on how I applied them in case someone wants to try them out.

The instructions don't mention this, but on the wrap there is a line closest to the edge. You need to roll that line on last otherwise it will be covered up. I made that mistake on my first wrap :)

I found the easiest way of putting them was taking a placemat and folding it up a few times, just enough that the nock will not touch the surface underneath. Then put a piece of paper over the placemat. Unstick the wrap and put it sticky side up on the paper (as I mentioned before, make sure the line closest to the edge of the wrap goes on last.) Then hold the arrow over the wrap with the nock as close to the edge of the wrap as possible. Look down over the arrow and press the arrow down onto the wrap when it looks level (I found doing this at the very edge of the wrap is easiest.) Then roll the arrow along the rest of the wrap. And that's it!

I just replaced some spin wings and the wrap holds up great. You just need to be a little extra cautious taking off the black spin wing tape. I tried scraping the tape down and not surprisingly made a little tear in the wrap. By unwrapping the tape there was no damage.

I got a second dozen of them in case one rips, but I don't see that happening for a long time.

And for anyone who is not familiar with it, there is a great article about applying spin wings here:
http://www.texasarchery.org/Documents/Mylar/mylarvanes.htm
Some useful things I got from it that come to mind were putting the black tape on the wings counter-clockwise (for right handed) and one thing I look forward to trying: wrapping the freshly applied wings with plastic wrap overnight to let the adhesive tape stick better.
 
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