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Discussion Starter #1
I downloaded archers advantage months ago and built my arrows virtually through the software and everything balanced out the way I wanted. The spine chart was just above green when I did it. Now that the arrows are finally built and I added in my actual speed the spine chart is showing all the way to the right as too stiff. What gives?

Here are the specs of the arrows:

Black Eagle Rampage 350's
Easton 75gr brass insert
125gr field tip
2" Blazers
Nockturnals
FOC is 16.2%
Arrow weight is 467gr.

Shooting a Hoyt Carbon Defiant maxed out at 63.1lb according to my scale and according to my chrono I'm shooting 247fps. According to the calculators I'm getting great kinetic energy and most importantly momentum. I have not been able to dial in yet but hope to this week. I guess my question is how much worth should I put into the spine chart on archers advantage and more importantly, why did it change when I added actual speed?
 

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Team #9
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I wouldn't worry about spine being too stiff , I would only worry about spine being to weak....but this just my opinion
your set up seems about perfect to me...
 

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You didn’t put in all the information so it changed some, that’s not uncommon. What did it give you as speed before you adjusted it? I usually shoot to stiff spine so it shouldn’t be a problem. You can add weight to weaken them but will slow you down. I go by the charts to get a starting point then I never look at them again.


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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks for the reply’s. When I originally did it through the software it estimated 260fps. My actual speed is 247 and yes it did ask for my IBO initially but everything changed once I inserted my actual speed into the software.

I am not really worried about it other than I’ve never shot arrows that were considered too stiff. I was chasing speed for years and finally got out of that nonsense, but here I am with overspined arrows. What are some things that could come of being overspined? Is there anything I should be looking for?


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You have the option of letting the software compute your speed from the IBO info or you can enter the actual speed from a chrono. The computed speed is always much faster than the actual speed in my case. The two will not give the same results if different info entered. From experience, I would say that your set up should be just fine. You can always add weight to the tip or broad head to lighten up the spine. But I would not pay for heavier broad heads just to appease a software program. How do the arrows shoot?
 

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Thanks for the reply’s. When I originally did it through the software it estimated 260fps. My actual speed is 247 and yes it did ask for my IBO initially but everything changed once I inserted my actual speed into the software.

I am not really worried about it other than I’ve never shot arrows that were considered too stiff. I was chasing speed for years and finally got out of that nonsense, but here I am with overspined arrows. What are some things that could come of being overspined? Is there anything I should be looking for?


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Never used AA myself but in OT2, they ask your IBO speed. If you put your actual speed in where they're asking the IBO speed on accident, that'll change things significantly. If AA actually uses your actual speed and then calculates for you your actual IBO speed, the fact that you're so much lower than what they estimated initially, that may cause the program to "think" the IBO is that much lower and it would then adjust your spine ratings.

These programs are only as accurate as the information put in so if something was off, they'll be off.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
You have the option of letting the software compute your speed from the IBO info or you can enter the actual speed from a chrono. The computed speed is always much faster than the actual speed in my case. The two will not give the same results if different info entered. From experience, I would say that your set up should be just fine. You can always add weight to the tip or broad head to lighten up the spine. But I would not pay for heavier broad heads just to appease a software program. How do the arrows shoot?
I definitely don’t want to add or remove to appease the software. I can’t really tell you how they shoot yet. I literally was only able to get on target yesterday at 10 yards. I had only a few minutes to shoot but I will hopefully be able to get it sighted in by this weekend.


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Discussion Starter #9
I’ll get it sighted in from 20-60 and see what happens. Hopefully they fly true and all is well. I just don’t know what to look for as a result of an overspined arrow.


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Reckoning 35 for 3D, RealmX for hunt, PSE SupraFocusXL for spot . Axcel, ARC release, Victory.
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Don't trust any IBO's to give U even close right spines etc.
Reign 6 in comfort mode, shoot thru chrono and I did put that value into AA.
IBO dropped 326 when I put real speed of an arrow in real weight and component's.

28.5" DL, 68.7# DW, 396Gr arrow goes 297fps = IBO326

Shure there's possibility to small measuring error's from equipment but it's truth as it can be to measured what I have.
Don't have pic from chrono but that's that.

Reign6_BCstringVeto.jpg
Reign6_BCstringPaunat.jpg
 

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I do the same as Tipe. I put in my calculated IBO speed that I get from my measurements and chrono readings.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I guess I’m confused.... how am I going to put in the actual speed from my chrono if I hadn’t built the arrows yet?


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I guess I’m confused.... how am I going to put in the actual speed from my chrono if I hadn’t built the arrows yet?


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I chronoed my bow with different arrows and calculated the speed. I use that calculated IBO speed for building my actual arrows.
 

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I guess I’m confused.... how am I going to put in the actual speed from my chrono if I hadn’t built the arrows yet?


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I usually just put in the ibo listed by my bow and then build a arrow. After that I tune the arrow and never fool with the program unless it’s for sight tapes. If I change arrows I will play with it again. I had a Mathews chill r and I ran it through a chrono and ibo would be grossly exaggerated the heavier arrow I had. I assume it was just more efficient with a heavy arrow. I was a good bit over the 340 ibo or whatever it was listed by Mathews. You can tune a weak shaft or a stiff shaft I find you just don’t want a grossly weak shaft cause it will be a headache and maybe dangerous depending on how weak.


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Discussion Starter #16
I usually just put in the ibo listed by my bow and then build a arrow. After that I tune the arrow and never fool with the program unless it’s for sight tapes. If I change arrows I will play with it again. I had a Mathews chill r and I ran it through a chrono and ibo would be grossly exaggerated the heavier arrow I had. I assume it was just more efficient with a heavy arrow. I was a good bit over the 340 ibo or whatever it was listed by Mathews. You can tune a weak shaft or a stiff shaft I find you just don’t want a grossly weak shaft cause it will be a headache and maybe dangerous depending on how weak.


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I guess all in all I’m not worried about it. I just sighted in at 20 yards and I have excellent groups. I’ll be sighting in at 50 soon to get my sight tape number and be shooting every day until opening day. Thanks for all of the info guys!


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dugabob
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I downloaded archers advantage months ago and built my arrows virtually through the software and everything balanced out the way I wanted. The spine chart was just above green when I did it. Now that the arrows are finally built and I added in my actual speed the spine chart is showing all the way to the right as too stiff. What gives?

Here are the specs of the arrows:

Black Eagle Rampage 350's
Easton 75gr brass insert
125gr field tip
2" Blazers
Nockturnals
FOC is 16.2%
Arrow weight is 467gr.

Shooting a Hoyt Carbon Defiant maxed out at 63.1lb according to my scale and according to my chrono I'm shooting 247fps. According to the calculators I'm getting great kinetic energy and most importantly momentum. I have not been able to dial in yet but hope to this week. I guess my question is how much worth should I put into the spine chart on archers advantage and more importantly, why did it change when I added actual speed?
arrow length and draw length need to be considered, don't see how you could have built the arrows without those critical dimensions
 

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Discussion Starter #18
arrow length and draw length need to be considered, don't see how you could have built the arrows without those critical dimensions
Thanks but I never said that I didn’t enter my draw length and arrow length. My arrow length was where I had to make the most adjustments for the arrows to fall into the green on the spine scale. I had to shorten it up. What I didn’t do was use a different arrow and shoot my bow with it and enter that information into the system to get all of the specs of my bow. Instead I entered the IBO of the bow along with other specs and built from there. Once built and chronographed, the values changed dramatically and that is where my original post came from. I was trying to figure out where I screwed up. All in all I’m satisfied with my arrow build and they fly great. When I build my wife’s arrows I will do it the right way.


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If you notice your groups opening up considerably at distance then you will know that you are over spined. The other indicator is the bow just seems to be a little finicky and your arrows don't always hit right behind the pin. I used to shoot arrows on the stiff side until I started shooting and training some some professional shooters that are very technical about their equipment. Now I shoot everything on the weak side and once tuned properly I almost never have issues with arrows not hitting behind the pin. My biggest problem is putting the pin where I want it to hit.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
If you notice your groups opening up considerably at distance then you will know that you are over spined. The other indicator is the bow just seems to be a little finicky and your arrows don't always hit right behind the pin. I used to shoot arrows on the stiff side until I started shooting and training some some professional shooters that are very technical about their equipment. Now I shoot everything on the weak side and once tuned properly I almost never have issues with arrows not hitting behind the pin. My biggest problem is putting the pin where I want it to hit.
Thank you. Hopefully I won’t have issues but now I know what to look for, I appreciate the info.


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