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· New Kid
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Would like some advice. I would really like to have my arrows hit the target exactly above or below where I'm placing the point of the arrow. But my arrows always hit to the right. It's not a weak spine issue; if anything, the arrows I'm using are too stiff. Bare shafts are grouping with the fletched arrows. Using a Samick Sage, 30# with 26.5" DL. Arrows are 700 spine, full length (30 in), with 4-inch feathers, 125gn tips. I'm shooting off the shelf with a Velcro rug rest and side plate.

Any theories or suggestions? Do I need to build out the side plate? Perform further testing?
 

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Right or left hand shooter? How far right as compared to Bare shaft? Just Velcro is not enough. You want to be 1/2 or 1 shaft out side. However, if the shaft is to stiff, right on center best.
Measure arrow diameter in .000" divide by 2 and subtract the off set 3/16". This center and your starting point.
Dan
 

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Where is the arrow point in relation to the string as per center shot?
May need to build out the side plate some if the point is inside the string.

Probably not relevant to your issue, but a new string and a Hoyt stick on rest totally changed my old sage in a good way.
 

· New Kid
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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Right or left hand shooter? How far right as compared to Bare shaft? Just Velcro is not enough. You want to be 1/2 or 1 shaft out side. However, if the shaft is to stiff, right on center best.
Measure arrow diameter in .000" divide by 2 and subtract the off set 3/16". This center and your starting point.
Dan
Right-handed. Bare shafts group same place as fletched.

Arrow tip is about 1 shaft outside. It's hard to tell. Sages are not the most tuneable of bows (not really much to adjust about the limbs) and the whole setup is not exactly dead-on straight from top to bottom.
 

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Right-handed. Bare shafts group same place as fletched.

Arrow tip is about 1 shaft outside. It's hard to tell. Sages are not the most tuneable of bows (not really much to adjust about the limbs) and the whole setup is not exactly dead-on straight from top to bottom.
Where is your string blur located in relation to the arrow or riser when at full draw?
 

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I had a similar problem once I got good enough to consistently group arrows. I read somewhere that one of the advantages of a plunger was that you could easily move the arrows right and left. But building out the side plate would do the same thing.

I just cut a inch of card stock and added pieces on the side plate until the arrows were impacting in the horizontal center. Then I made a new strike plate the same thickness. Paper doesn't have much durability.

It worked for me. I didn't pay any attention to arrow tip in relation to the string. Just the impact point.
 

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Right-handed. Bare shafts group same place as fletched.

Arrow tip is about 1 shaft outside. It's hard to tell. Sages are not the most tuneable of bows (not really much to adjust about the limbs) and the whole setup is not exactly dead-on straight from top to bottom.
I have to build out my son's Sage. He first was using the Martin leather striker plate. I will get a picture of how it looks. only difference is his is left handed.
Dan
 

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Check the spark plugs before overhauling the engine.

How long have you been shooting a stick? The reason I ask is because if you a new or fairly new to the game it is very possible that when shooting you are not reaching measured draw length or you are creeping the release and, again, not releasing at your measured draw length. Both can affect the stored energy of the limbs and, therefore, increase/decrease the reactive stiffness of arrow spine.

-You state that your bow draw-weight is 30#@28" and your draw length was measured to be 26.5".
-In that that your draw length is less (shorter) than the factory stated 30#@28", I would use a scale of 2#-3# per inch less than the 30# draw-weight of bow.
-That would calculate an estimated draw-weight of your bow to actually be in the ranges of 26# to 27# draw-weight
-If you are creeping the shot, or your established anchor when shooting is less than 26.5", then it is possible you are affecting the stored energy even more.
-Scale the bow at 28" to obtain the actual draw-weight at 28"....regardless what the bow is marked to be.
-Mark a couple of shafts at 26.5 and have someone stand to the side while you shoot several strings to observe whether you are consistently drawing more or less than 26.5".

Once you have reasonably determined the actual draw-weight being obtained, then and only then determine what arrow spine and total arrow weight is best for your bow. Once you have, then tune the bow...and your shooting form. I don't shoot carbon so someone more familiar with carbons will need determine what spine (size) and setup is best for your rig.
 
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