http://www.archerytalk.com/vb/showthread.php?t=377004

Check out this thread.

 

Put a carpenter's level against the limb pockets on your bow and when it reads plumb (vertical) your level on your sight should be dead center. Then there's the 3rd axis adjustment for up hill/down hill shots. I think it's on Gold tip's sight, Tim Gillingham has good info on leveling your sight.

 

Thank you for the thread how do I save it? I havent walk back tuned or bare shaft I just paper tuned then put a broad head on and went from there I will try that in the morning I'm also going to try the level thing cause I tok a picture of the front view of me at full draw and the bubble centered and it looks like I got a slight lean

 

You should French tune your bow then see if that clears up your issues with hitting right, Shoot your bow at a piece of tape placed vertically on the target from 3 feet and adjust your sight til you hit directly in the center of the tape. Now move back to 20 yards and shoot at the same piece of tape, See where you hit and adjust your rest accordingly!

 

When I sight in my arrows sometime this happens. Once I find tune at 40-50 yards I walk up to 20-30 yards and "most of the time it's dead on. Sometimes it can be a spine issue. Mostly its a minor adjustment tho. Nothing wrong. Possibly a little home tune if you have a yoke.

 

If your fixed blade braodhead tuned out to 80 yards your bow is seariously about as tuned as you can possibly get. You'll be doing yourself a disservice by tuning to any different method now and you'll need to return it to its current settings later to get your braodhead tune this good again. Id be looking at your second and third axis on your sight....also sight in at the longest yardage first.....then check the shorter distances. I certainly would not be moving your rest.....yokes....or anything from a tuning standpoint right now. Youve done an excellent job getting it here.

 

I tune fixed blade heads to a distance 10yds farther than I would take a shot, as over many years, I have found that sooner or later, they can "take a walk", drifting right, left, up, down.

The process is generally called broadhead tuning.

In your case, the least or lowest impact adjustment would be a slight tweak to centershot, a micro adjustment to the left would likely do the trick. But for shafts drifting that far out, the change should be very small, very small. I use yoke tuning as a step, but that has a variable amount of effect, and on shorter ATA bows, even a half turn can put you out in the other direction.

 

Sorry but I think the op says field points and braodheads are hitting together all the way out to 80 yards...he has already done an excellent job of braodhead tuning. His problem is his arrows. ..all them...are hitting farther to the right the farther he shoots back.

 

Could it be the spine of the arrow also because I shoot 28.5 inch arrow Easton fmj 340 and I change the length of my arrow and I rechecked the chart last night and it's saying I should shoot a 300 now also I can see a slight lean now when the bubble is level on my sight at full draw I will send a pic if I can figure out how

 

TMan called it.

that's exactly what French tuning, or walk up tuning is for.

 

If your field points and broadheads are hitting together then you are tuned, one of the biggest mistakes guys make is trying to get dead on at 20 yards and then working their way back to longer distances and expecting to still be dead on. More than likely you weren't dead on at 20 and then as you go back it just shows up more and more.

The easy fix is to go back to 50 or 60 yards and get it dead on there by using a vertical piece of black tape and making sure that you hit dead on mostly and some misses left and right of it. Then when you move up to closer distances you will be even more dead on perfect than if you had tried to do it up there.

 

I agree with the above. Adjust your sight at the longer distances and then see if 20 is still on. You may be hitting a tad right at 20 and not noticing.

 

Ok I think there are a lot of well intentioned people here that are confusing the real issue so ill try this one more time....and maybe the op can clarify. As I read the OP I belive he is saying that his fp's and bh's are hitting in the same groups from zero all the way to 80 yards. There isnt any "drifting" in yhe traditional sense of the word. His problem is that as he goes back his groups with field points and bradheads.....which are hitting together. Are going farther to the right. This is not a tuning issue. He is throwing absolute lazers and from a hunting standpoint you can't tune a bow much better ....if at all. He's done a great job of tuning.
This tells me it is either a sighting in issue.....as Padgett suggested...or a sight issue. Id look at those. Second and third axis and sighting at the longest distances first.
If he tunes to a walkback by moving the rest or tweaking the yokes....he will certainly be changing his braodhead tune to 80 yards....really the pinnacle of tuning for the huntet

 

Sorry about all the spelling and grammer errors...typed quickly on a phone

 

I just read through this thread again and didn't realize the first time that baldyhunter had posted, he is somebody to listen to and knows his stuff. The claims that you are making are telling us that your bow is tuned and it just needs to be sighted in. Sure you need to check your second axis but if your bow is a hunting bow then it may not even have a second axis option, that is more of a target sight thing. For a hunting bow as long as all of the pins are in a perfect vertical line above the bubble then the second axis is good, now if you moved some of the pins so that they aren't all perfectly lined up above the bubble that may be your problem. On a spot hogg sight they have a thin piece of stainless steel wire that allows you to have all the pins set perfectly vertical after setting the pin gaps.

Don't confuse your first axis setting with second, if you are shooting a movable single pin the second axis is very important because if it isn't set correctly the pin is moving down at a angle and this causes the problem of a arrow moving away from the spot as you go back in distance. But first axis only means that you are choosing to shoot with a natural cant of the bow or having the riser perfectly straight up and down. Your bow will shoot equally as accurate with a natrual cant as it will with a vertical bow position so first axis isn't your issue. The only reason it would be your issue is if you are ignoring your bubble and allow it to be off and still shoot.

 

what do you think "walk back tuning does" ?....... it aligns the arrow's vertical trajectory with the vertical line of sight. it can be and usually is, a case of both sight and rest misalignment problems. whether you go from 20 out, or from 60 in, it doesn't matter.... it has the same function, either direction. it can be equally called, "walk back", or "walk up" tuning. just because you start at the longer distance, it doesn't guarantee the shorter distance is ok because the misalignment that causes the problem, sets the arrow's trajectory off of "plumb", or the vertical plane.
I could go on about explaining why, but if you don't already realize this, you're not going to understand my explanation. I've posted it before and the same people always disagree, but don't seem to be able to technically explain why they disagree.

 

I have heard your explanations before but I am going to stick with baldy hunter, if your arrow flight is spot on good then there is absolutely no reason to go and move your arrow rest. Most walk back tuning people never really get good arrow flight, they shoot groups and move their rest until they see some good groups and stop even though the arrow flight really isn't good. That doesn't mean that there aren't good walk back tuners out there but most aren't and only move stuff till they get a good group or so.

Secondly I shoot indoor all the time and you can move your windage a few clicks and still be hitting the x and for most general shooters who aren't that solid of a shooter just hitting a x is all they are looking for and they call their bow dead on. Then when they move back the arrow is now starting to really show the truth and starts missing off to one side, this has nothing to do with the tune job and everything to do with it not being sighted in.

 

arrow flight can be spot on and yet not in vertical alignment with the vertical line of sight. walk back tuning has nothing to do with arrow flight, specifically.....with the arrow's vertical plane of trajectory, yes...but not it's flight.
walk back tuners do get perfect arrow flight because, as part of the process of walk back tuning, you are adjusting the rest to launch the arrow in line with the vertical plane of thrust the bow produces in respect to the arrows dynamic spine. when all three,... the vertical plane of thrust,... the vertical plane of flight.... and the vertical plane of sight....are in correct alignment, arrow flight will be as good as it can get.
what you are describing above is "angular dispersion of perspective. it is certainly a part of walk back tuning, that assocoiates the vertical plane of sight, with the vertical plane of trajectory, but these are not the only two elements that exist in a bow that is, or is not walk back tuned. what you have described is a mis-alignment between the vertical plane of sight and the other two elements that are contained in walk back tuning, while the other two elements are in alignment.
when we walk back tune, we adjust all three elements to produce the best results.

 

Im certainly not going to argue with you ronw ....and in fact I agree with much of your primary assertions above.....disagree with little. I will however make a point. My bow is hunt ready right now for fixed blade braodheads. I have it braodhead tuned to 50 yards and not only does it have perfectly straight arrow flight, it also groups field points and braodheads in almost the exact same size groups and location, and the walkback tune is perfect with both as well. I have all three of your "elements" together.....but I also have a perfect braodhead tune and arrow flight. I know we all don't tune to the same degree as others and that is fine. But the op should know that he is very likely to be only a sight tweek away from having all three of your elements plus one of the most important for fixed blade braodhead users....perfect arrow flight. Asking him to give that up without even checking to make sure his sights aren't the problem seems ludicrous to me. I've been tuning bows for perfect walkback and perfect arrow flight performance for years.

 

put my bow in a bow vice leveled it with a 4 foot square and my bubble was off so i centered it didnt get to

 

put my bow in a bow vice leveled it with a 4 foot square and my bubble was off so i centered it didnt get to shoot but 20 yards today cause it was really windy so i wouldnt be able to tell in the wind so hopefully that was the fix but im going to recheck asap when the wind dies down also what was that i did was it 2nd axis because i dont think my sight has a 3rd axis its the mbg acent base with the vengence head and its not the dove tail

 

baldyhunter what your saying is exactly whats going on

 

I am sincerely happy to have helped....you've done a fantastic job of tuning your bow

 

Just like a crooked cross hairs on a gun. You tend to level the cross hairs and the bore is not lined up correctly. I have seen this on several occasions. Your pins are not squared up with the riser or you are canting the bow slightly. I shimmed a few sets of sights over the years, bought sights with individual horizontal adjustment and I have also purchased third axis kits. My HHA sight was the worst. On at 20.....12" to the right at 50. Bow was tuned. The sight was terribly misaligned with my bow.

 

Thank all of you for your help i learned a lot of good things that can help me in the future too since i am new to archery and have only been shooting a couple of years

 

Even without the critical information of a really good broadhead tune, I can check my site's 2nd axis in a few seconds. Usually takes days before I'm satisfied with a tune.

Basic troubleshooting: check the simple things first.

Good call baldyhunter. Glad to see you posting again.

 

If they're hitting in the same spot back to 80 yards just move your sight. Moving your point of impact 1/4" at 20 is going to move it a whole lot more than that at 80 yards.