[longbowlover]

Where can I get arrows spined for a recurve with a draw weight of 24# at 28"? I was told they would be hard to find if I can find them at all. It doesn't matter if they are wood or carbon.

This whole spine thing has me perplexed. Obviously it's not arrows that are cut to my draw length. I understand it has to do with the way the arrow flexes upon being shot but that is as far as my understanding goes. Perhaps someone can give me a layman's view on this?

longbowlover

 

[Viper1]

lbl -

Start with 1716s. The correct spine would be a 1616, but I DO NOT recomment those for new shooters. First, a lot of local shops don't stock them, second, I find them to be a bit on the fragile side compared to the 1716s.

When a stick bow is set up (correctly) the arrow is offset to the left of center (for a right-handed shooter). When you let go of the string the string moves forward and the arrow moves to the left. With me so far?

That causes the arrow to bend. That bending has to be timed so the arrow flexes around the riser and doesn't touch it. If it doesn't bent enough it will shoot to the left, bends too much and it shoots to the right.

Aluminum arrows are numbered to give you the outside diameter (the first 2 numbers in 64ths of an inch) and the wall thickness (second 2 numbers in 1000ths of an inch). Therefore a 1716 is 17/64" in OD and 16/1000" in wall thickness. The larger the diameter and thicker the wall the stiffer the spine.

That's about as layman as I can make it. Go with the 1716s.

Viper1 out.

 

[SlowBowInMO]

For that I'd shoot cedar. What's your draw? Economical kids arrows are available all made up in lengths up to 28 inches, and will work in bows up to 35#. They'd be great messing around starter arrows anyway.

 

[kegan]

just makew some. elm saplings, dogwood, willows, or even cherry saplings will work. for 30#+ i use 3/8". for less than that i use 1/4". buy a fletcher and nocks/ points from cabels if this is your first attempt at making arrows and you don't wanna go primitive.