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Arrows??

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Ok so I have been racking my brain running numbers over and over again about what arrows and weight i shold be shooting for the best possible speed and KE ot of my bow, which is a Bear Assalt 60lbs 26" draw. I am currently shooting goldtip velocity xt 400 at 7.4gpi with a total weight of 325 grain with field tip, and might have some Harvest time HT-2 400 on the way, which will give an arrow around 340 grains, but still now sure about this arrow thing, have not been real big into archery till just recently and man i love it, its all i want to do now is shoot and shoot, anywways some insight from some of you awesome people here on AT would be great, just kinda need to be steered in the right direction with this, thanks for any input. Oh almost forgot my arrow length would be 26 3/8 carbon to carbon or 26 5/8 carbon to nock valley.
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Target shooting, Hunting or Both? This will help finalize your decision. a .400 Spine is where you need to be in the 60 - 65 lb range but your arrow length has me a bit concerned if your Point weight is too high. There is a science to it that comes into play but if you are a new archer I would STRONGLY recommend that you cut your .400 shafts to your draw length plus 1" and start from there. This addiction can become very expensive but you can always cut your arrows shorter and re-fletch later than to buy brand new arrows once you figure out your sweet spot with your set-up.

Here is my set up:
CSS Challenger drawing 70lbs at 27"
HTA-2 400's cut to 26 1/2 Carbon to Carbon tipped with 125g and fletched with 3" Fusions.
My rest is 2" behind shelf giving me 1.25" clearance allowing for the shorter arrow length as apposed to my Draw Length.

I am pretty much maxed out at this point as I am shooting a lighter arrow giving me faster speed but when you run the numbers I should be shooting at least a .340 spine for 70#

As stated above, here would be your starting point if you were to go with the HTA-2's

Cut your arrow length to 27" to start, shoot a 100g field point to start, fletch according to your rest type. Shoot, Shoot, Shoot and when you are satisfied that you can't get anything more out of your groups change your point weight. see what happens. remember that you can always cut your arrows down to stiffen them up!

Good luck and glad to meet you.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I will be mainly shooting in the backyard and for hunting when the season comes around. So what u are saying is that having a DL of 26 my arrows should be shorter then that, cause i did notice that they do stick out past the front of the riser, but thats where the goof at BPS said it should be which was a ways away from where my ripcord was, so thats where he cut them at so i went with it. Is having the 100grain point too high or low, not sure what u were saying there. I do notice that i have alot of arrow drop when i start shooting out passed 35 yards would a tip with less grain help that or? I have shooting lanes from most of my stands out to 45 yards or so and want to be able to get there with out shooting a rainbow shot lol
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
anybody else with some input? anything?
 

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this is just my opinion, as i had light arrows, then went to heavy......... For hunting i see absolutly no reason to shoot a light arrow. There are so many advantages of a heavy arrow, quiets the bow down alot, more momentum for better penetration, better wind resistance. The only thing your sacrificing with a heavy arrow is flatter trajectory, which in a hunting situation is absolutely pointless to me. Either the animal is close enough to where i know, or i have the area pre ranged, or the animal is far enought o where im picking up the rangefinder. IMO too many people get caught up on speed, and i can see why for 3d, but for just a hunting arrow i would suggest going as heavy as you feel comfortable doing.

Like you i have a 26"dl, sucks dosnt it.... but anyways i shot a 330 grain arrow. Now im shooting a 440, which i feel is a good weight considering my dl and 60lb bow. Though im shooting slower, my bow is way quieter, and i have the power to punch not only one hole but 2 holes if i do my job right.

I shoot 26" arrows because they spine better for me, used to use 25"
 

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If you are confident in your yardage estimation, speed means nothing. If you have a range finder, you have no need for speed. I can't judge yardage at all. My 3D scores were proof of that. I cranked my bow way down, got heavier arrows, and my speed dropped from 314fps to 278fps. I took my range finder to my last 3D shoot and shot a fantastic score. Speed does not equate to accuracy. Accuracy comes from developing your skill, well-tuned equipment, and being able to place the shot where it counts. Having good KE and a well-placed shot beats speed every time.

Automan
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Well I ordered some HT-2 400 last night uncut bare shafts so I could do like some of you have said about playing with the length and weight to find that optimal sweet spot for my bow. Father-in-law has 2 bitz flechters and a arrow saw going to try my hand at building my own arrows, now just need some suggestions on vanes. Have always used blazers but thinking of trying the Fusion 2.1 vanes anyone else used them? Pros and cons with them versus blazers? Or any other good ones you have come across? How far should the arrow point be out past my ripcord to be safe?
 

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The guy at your pro shop put you 1 inch in front of your riser because that is a common practice for fixed blade broad heads ( It is a psychological thing to have your bow hand behind the head at full draw ) but does not mean that you have to keep it that way. I would go to pinwheel software and download the trail version of the ot-2 software. play with it and there will be a tab for "Spine Chart". Here you can play with the numbers to get your optimal arrow length and tip weight basically building your arrow before you cut anything.

As far as your vanes go, I have used both the blazers and the fusion 2.1 and ended up really liking the flight of the 3" fusion as I on;y shoot fixed blade broadheads. I have heard some on here liking the blazer over the 2.1 and vice versa.

Finally as to your rip cord. This is a matter of preference but for some reason I am mentally ok with 1" in front of the rest at full draw. This is only because if a situation in hunting presents itself where I pull harder into the wall than usual, i do not want that broadhead being anywhere near my rest. I shoot a Richmond CSS which has a pretty nice wall but I have also owned some spongy bows and have pulled a field point right out of the rest once or twice when I first started shooting.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Ok cool I will go check out that software, it sounds like something that will really help me with my decision on how to make up these new arrows I got coming. And one inch in front of the rest was what I was kinda thinking too as far as length but I will play with that software stuff first and see what I can come up with, thanks again guys love all the feedback
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Ok well went and downloaded the software program from pinwheel, and when i went to the spine match to go over seeing what my best arrow would be, this is after first doing the equipment setup part anyways when i click on the spine match tab it says that i should be at a 500 spine for my setup, holy crap is that right!!! Cause i have new HT-2 400 in the mail coming to me, and have always shot 400 spine arrows around 7-7.5gpi and 500 spine would be at 6.4gpi. But when i click on the "Synch" button in the top middle section labeled "Spine" it changes the 500 spine setting to the 400 spine i put in the equipment setup part and then it says everything is all good. What the heck am I doing here anyone with some experience with this program please give me some input so i can stop running blind here.
 

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you did it right. don't worry. I got your PM and I PM'd you back with my number to call me. We can go over it Saturday afternoon if you want. .500 spine is for the 35 to 40 lb pull window.
 
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