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Absolutely. Its the most accurate way to shoot a bow in all conditions, All top rifle and pistol shooters shoot the same but surprise shots are prevalent in archery because people don't know how to control anticipation. There are more and more top shooters shooting my way and I think the best in the world do. Mike Schloesser, Kyle Douglas, Jimmy Lutz to name a few. You have to be able to fire in the middle if you are not able to hold there the entire time. David Tubbs talks about it very well in hi book, High Power Rifle. Not everyone can hold like Chance Beaubouef and when Chance gets outside and has to deal with elements his shot style struggles. Ive tried everything and when I decided to do it my way and the hell with what everybody says, I started winning
Hi, Tim. Can you please expand on how to control shot anticipation? Or can you recommend and Youtube videos where you, or someone else, talks about this?

Everyone talks about how the surprise shot is the best shot. I'd like to learn more about how an archer can consistently use a command shot and not miss due to target panic or shot anticipation.
 

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Hi Tim: I am using a Tru ball Pro Blade Quicksilver flex and I command shoot. I think I could command shoot a hinge release. Have you ever seen anyone command shoot a hinge style release?

My main indoor spot bow is a Bowtech Fanatic 3.0 set at 29 inch draw and set at 50 pounds with the Tank 27 shafts and 210 grain points. I have a Hoyt Freestyle with 40-50 pound limbs set at 42 pounds. Thinking about making this a backup indoor spot bow. How would the X Cutter Pro shaft (cut to 27 inches) with a 100 grain tip and 3 blazer vanes work for indoor spots? Thanks Mr. Ken
 

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So choose arrow length as in video and play with point weight til appropriate grouping occurs is what I get from this. After that play with fletching and other bow tuning til desired results arise?
 

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So choose arrow length as in video and play with point weight til appropriate grouping occurs is what I get from this. After that play with fletching and other bow tuning til desired results arise?
Your biggest forgiveness factor is going to be fletching. Overkill should be the rule at 20 as long as you aren't shooting too slow as that can be unforgiving. Feathers are very good for increases in speed and control. I move in point weight of 150-200-250 to see if the speed or point weight is more beneficial. Depends on the shooter and a lot to do with how well you hold and follow through. For women and low poundage I start with 100-120 4-3" feathers and mover to 150-170. If it is worse then add only 20 grains. The FACT weight system on Gold Tip arrows make this very user friendly and I recommend 3-4 days with each setup so you are not making a knee jerk response. The difference is very subtle. If you are having a tuning problem that is another problem all together. Dont let some crappy bow company tell you you have to adjust the arrow to make their bow with crappy nock travel tune. Those days are over. I can tune anyin gin my Bowtechs in 5 min from a 50 grain point to 300. That good nock travel and a great tuning system
 

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Can you explain how you set up your hamskea rest for 3D? Does launcher type matter (spring steel, g flex, hunting launcher, etc)? Does the launcher angle matter when used as a drop away?

Thanks for all your help in this thread!

D
 

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How clear is your target circle trying to figure out the scope strengths and clarifiers together not sure what to expect or how to start.
 

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What makes one stabilizer better than another? I.e. what makes a stabilizer "good"? I started with a cheap recurve bar that was not very stiff and when I bought a 30" Dead Center bar 6 months later I could immediately tell the difference in how my bow settled into the shot and some improved vibration dampening. Since then though I've acquired few different stabilizers, a couple Bernie's and a BeeStinger. Aside from the physical weight of each bar I can't really tell a difference from one to the next. The Bee Stinger with it's slightly smaller diameter is a bit nicer outside in the wind, but other than that they all seem to do the same thing: hold 6-7 ounces of weight out front without flopping around. Granted, none of these are "high end" stabilizers, but I'm left wondering if I'm missing something.

Thanks for doing this. It is very insightful, and I hope to see more AMAs with pros in the future.
 

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Mr. Gillingham,

I've got 2 questions if you don't mind.

1. I have a decent case of essential tremors in my hands and it drives me absolutely insane while trying to hold on target. I've tried increasing weights on my front and back to combat this but now I find the pin dropping out of the bottom of the bullseye at 20 yards. I've also picked up some supplements to help with the tremors but frankly it hasn't done jack squat for me. Any advice as far as what I can do do to help keep my pin floating in the bullseye? I find myself getting frustrated after 20 minutes of shooting.

2. Stabilizer bar weight. Right now I'm shooting Shrewd Onyx bars, 30" front with 9 oz and 14" back bar with 18 oz on a Prime Black 9, draw weight 60 lbs and 18 lbs holding weight with a Carter Like Mike. The bars weigh 8.2 oz and 5.2 oz respectively. I've been looking at the Conquest .747 bars, 33" front weighing 5.2 oz and 15" weighing 3 oz. Would saving the 5.2 oz total in stabilizer bar weight and adding it to the end weights make a significant difference?

Thanks for your time and dont get COVID.

Mike
 

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I have an 11 video tuning series on Gold Tips You Tube channel that covers it all. Paper tells no lies. Its all there. If you cant paper tune you cannot bare shaft tune and since you are not shooting a bare shaft Id tune with a fletched one
So I actually shoot bareshaft through paper. Wouldn't the implication be that if I get a bareshaft to shoot bullets with no steering, it's only a benefit when I through a steering agent on the arrow?
 

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Why do you think there is a big push in FOC for penetration when it’s not needed?
 

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Hi Tim: I am using a Tru ball Pro Blade Quicksilver flex and I command shoot. I think I could command shoot a hinge release. Have you ever seen anyone command shoot a hinge style release?

My main indoor spot bow is a Bowtech Fanatic 3.0 set at 29 inch draw and set at 50 pounds with the Tank 27 shafts and 210 grain points. I have a Hoyt Freestyle with 40-50 pound limbs set at 42 pounds. Thinking about making this a backup indoor spot bow. How would the X Cutter Pro shaft (cut to 27 inches) with a 100 grain tip and 3 blazer vanes work for indoor spots? Thanks Mr. Ken

I'm not Tim, and I couldn't hit the ground with an arrow if I dropped it, but I command shoot a hinge, and I get better groups this way than with back tension.
 

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Thank you for your time Tim; a question that may be out of your wheelhouse and definitely not te typical tuning/tech tips, but as a visually impaired [blind] archer, I find it amazing at the lack of participation/numbers of VIs in the U.S. as compared to many other countries despite our large numbers of total archers and being home to many of the major brands... Any suggestions, points of contact, or advice on growing support for the VI segment of archery? Even through our NGB we sort of feel like an after thought, since VI archery isn't included as part of the Paralympic programso I/we in the discipline are seeking other avenues of gaining support in hopes tat it will filter back through the NGBs both here and abroad.

Shameless plug- Find the BowTechs some of the easiest to tune while blindfolded... Good luck in your future.
 

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Do you think the average archer/hunter can tell the difference between a .001, .003, .006 straightness shafts while tuning and shooting? I used to buy the Gold Tip Pro's, but to be honest, they don't shoot any different than the XT's for me personally. Thanks!!
 

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Hello Tim,
I am sure you don't remember me but I've spoken to you a few times as different ASA events. I just want to say I appreciate your help and you were very approachable and professional. I want to say "Thank you" for all that you have done for the archery community and this Q&A session is just another example of your professionalism and love for the industry.
 

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I wonder what bow Tim shoots for hunting and what bow he shoots for 3D/Outdoor and what he shoots for indoor? I would also be curious to know what his specs are to be shooting a 250 spine Pierce at 320 FPS. I'm a 30 1/2" draw and would be curious to know which of the Bowtechs are the most forgiving at that DL
 
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