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As someone who has shot and won so many tournaments and have shot so many animals over the years, WHat do you think of all the people flocking to extremely heavy arrows because someone who shoots pigs says its the only way to go?
 

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Can you explain how you set up your hamskea rest for 3D? Does launcher type matter (spring steel, g flex, hunting launcher, etc)? Does the launcher angle matter when used as a drop away?

Thanks for all your help in this thread!

D
I personally like a wide spring steel launcher that I bend up n the edges to provide a little side support. Blade angle should be as shallow as possible and still achieve clearance. I run heavy spring tension when shooting a blade on it because I d not like the idea of mixing spring tension and blade tension together. I always use a limb clamp and make short bowstring for the pull cord so I can twist it up or down for fine tuning. The rest should be timed to drop at the midpoint of the shaft as you start to let down or slightly in front of that. The idea is that you want the rest to drop while the arrow is bending vertically away from the rest
 

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As someone who has shot and won so many tournaments and have shot so many animals over the years, WHat do you think of all the people flocking to extremely heavy arrows because someone who shoots pigs says its the only way to go?
Its mainly the people that are not really experienced shooters that understand all the issues involved with hunting,. Penetration is NOT the biggest problem a bowhunter has. Its hitting where you are supposed to and knowing the distance to your quarry. Ive shot a few pigs and I dont think they are that hard or any more difficult than anything else. There is a lot of testosterone and ego in this subject too. You arent reliably blowing through shoulders with any setup and that is a poor shot so fix that. Dont believe me go to any local Bowhunter 3-D and you will see where most of the problems lie. People that compete and hunt dont play that game. They pick a happy medium
 

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I wonder what bow Tim shoots for hunting and what bow he shoots for 3D/Outdoor and what he shoots for indoor? I would also be curious to know what his specs are to be shooting a 250 spine Pierce at 320 FPS. I'm a 30 1/2" draw and would be curious to know which of the Bowtechs are the most forgiving at that DL
I shoot a custom bowtech for Hunting to get my draw. basically a Reckoning 35 riser and SR6 limbs. 76 lbs with an overdraw 29" Pierce Tour with a 120 grain glue in Thorn broadhead

For everything else I shoot a Reckoning 38 with a long loop for my draw as I can only get about 32.5" draw out of the bow and my draw is 33.5" 65-66 lbs for all outdoor and 3-D. 60lbs with tour 340/140 grains for FITA, and right now 52 lbs for indoor with Triple X
 

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Do you think the average archer/hunter can tell the difference between a .001, .003, .006 straightness shafts while tuning and shooting? I used to buy the Gold Tip Pro's, but to be honest, they don't shoot any different than the XT's for me personally. Thanks!!
Watch my video "Building more accurate Arrows" I cover how to make the best out of what you are using. It depends on application and how long of a shaft you are shooting and how much effort you put into tuning. Also watch my 11 video series on Gold Tip's You Tube channel. The Dynamic spine tuning video shows how to tune the arrows to each other
 

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How clear is your target circle trying to figure out the scope strengths and clarifiers together not sure what to expect or how to start.
Its always a give and take and depends on how much power you are trying to clear up and the distance you are shooting. I can usually clear up to a 6x pretty well and still see my pin. When I get past a B clarifier on a Hamskea clarifier its dicey. Smaller peep holes help with seeing the pin but make the sight picture darker
 

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I shoot a custom bowtech for Hunting to get my draw. basically a Reckoning 35 riser and SR6 limbs. 76 lbs with an overdraw 29" Pierce Tour with a 120 grain glue in Thorn broadhead

For everything else I shoot a Reckoning 38 with a long loop for my draw as I can only get about 32.5" draw out of the bow and my draw is 33.5" 65-66 lbs for all outdoor and 3-D. 60lbs with tour 340/140 grains for FITA, and right now 52 lbs for indoor with Triple X
Do you feel at a 30-30.5" DL, that a 35"+ riser with a longer BH would be better and more forgiving or do you feel like a shorter ATA bow would suffice? I'm curious because I want the most forgiving set up I can get. After that I can start to customize the speeds with arrow builds etc... Like you said before, accuracy trumps all!
 

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Mr. Gillingham,

I've got 2 questions if you don't mind.

1. I have a decent case of essential tremors in my hands and it drives me absolutely insane while trying to hold on target. I've tried increasing weights on my front and back to combat this but now I find the pin dropping out of the bottom of the bullseye at 20 yards. I've also picked up some supplements to help with the tremors but frankly it hasn't done jack squat for me. Any advice as far as what I can do do to help keep my pin floating in the bullseye? I find myself getting frustrated after 20 minutes of shooting.

2. Stabilizer bar weight. Right now I'm shooting Shrewd Onyx bars, 30" front with 9 oz and 14" back bar with 18 oz on a Prime Black 9, draw weight 60 lbs and 18 lbs holding weight with a Carter Like Mike. The bars weigh 8.2 oz and 5.2 oz respectively. I've been looking at the Conquest .747 bars, 33" front weighing 5.2 oz and 15" weighing 3 oz. Would saving the 5.2 oz total in stabilizer bar weight and adding it to the end weights make a significant difference?

Thanks for your time and dont get COVID.

Mike
Have you tried increasing your holding weight and/or moving the loop up higher on the string. Both increase leverage to hold it up. I run 22 lbs holding weight whether 52 or 70 lbs. Before you try a 33 just get a 3" extension . Thats what I do. Id wear a glove to dampen the tremors also. maybe try a neoprene
 

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I personally like a wide spring steel launcher that I bend up n the edges to provide a little side support. Blade angle should be as shallow as possible and still achieve clearance. I run heavy spring tension when shooting a blade on it because I d not like the idea of mixing spring tension and blade tension together. I always use a limb clamp and make short bowstring for the pull cord so I can twist it up or down for fine tuning. The rest should be timed to drop at the midpoint of the shaft as you start to let down or slightly in front of that. The idea is that you want the rest to drop while the arrow is bending vertically away from the rest
That is incredibly helpful, thank you!

D
 

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Thank you for your time Tim; a question that may be out of your wheelhouse and definitely not te typical tuning/tech tips, but as a visually impaired [blind] archer, I find it amazing at the lack of participation/numbers of VIs in the U.S. as compared to many other countries despite our large numbers of total archers and being home to many of the major brands... Any suggestions, points of contact, or advice on growing support for the VI segment of archery? Even through our NGB we sort of feel like an after thought, since VI archery isn't included as part of the Paralympic programso I/we in the discipline are seeking other avenues of gaining support in hopes tat it will filter back through the NGBs both here and abroad.

Shameless plug- Find the BowTechs some of the easiest to tune while blindfolded... Good luck in your future.
Im not sure there. Do it for love of the game first, and use your experiences to encourage others with your condition to try and archery and grow it that way. Matt Stutzman does an awesome job encouraging everyone to fling arrows
 

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What makes one stabilizer better than another? I.e. what makes a stabilizer "good"? I started with a cheap recurve bar that was not very stiff and when I bought a 30" Dead Center bar 6 months later I could immediately tell the difference in how my bow settled into the shot and some improved vibration dampening. Since then though I've acquired few different stabilizers, a couple Bernie's and a BeeStinger. Aside from the physical weight of each bar I can't really tell a difference from one to the next. The Bee Stinger with it's slightly smaller diameter is a bit nicer outside in the wind, but other than that they all seem to do the same thing: hold 6-7 ounces of weight out front without flopping around. Granted, none of these are "high end" stabilizers, but I'm left wondering if I'm missing something.

Thanks for doing this. It is very insightful, and I hope to see more AMAs with pros in the future.
At some point they are all stiff bars with weight on the end. Some are stiffer than others and that requires more expensive carbon as its high mod. We have added a dampening layer of Countervail to our stiff bars to dampen frequency vibration. Its amazing what 2-3" of stabilizer length can do for hold but the longer the bars need to be stiffer to recover fast
 

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Hi Tim: I am using a Tru ball Pro Blade Quicksilver flex and I command shoot. I think I could command shoot a hinge release. Have you ever seen anyone command shoot a hinge style release?

My main indoor spot bow is a Bowtech Fanatic 3.0 set at 29 inch draw and set at 50 pounds with the Tank 27 shafts and 210 grain points. I have a Hoyt Freestyle with 40-50 pound limbs set at 42 pounds. Thinking about making this a backup indoor spot bow. How would the X Cutter Pro shaft (cut to 27 inches) with a 100 grain tip and 3 blazer vanes work for indoor spots? Thanks Mr. Ken
Yes on the arrow but Id experiment with 150 also. The FACT weight system makes this easier. I would not command shoot a hinge. Frankly I think the Truball execute is the very best release I ever shot and most forgiving. I think gated jaws are more forgiving than hooks
 

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How do you personally determine how to distribute your weight between your front rod and your v bars (how much is on the front vs how much is on the back)?

D
 

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How do you personally determine how to distribute your weight between your front rod and your v bars (how much is on the front vs how much is on the back)?

D
Im about a 1:2 ratio

3-D I run about 8-9 in the front and 12 on the left and 10 on the right .
target I run 12-14 and sometimes a little more on the rear but always a couple more on the left than the right
 

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Tim-
Can you explain why you use some type of fingerless glove when you are shooting?

Thanks for jumping in and doing this Q&A by the way!
 

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Tim,

Thanks for taking the time to do this Q&A. To be able to ask questions to such an accomplished and professional archer is such a privilege.

I have a few questions if its ok,

What got you started in archery, did you start as a kid in a JOADD or S3DA type program, and when did you decide you wanted to go pro?

You have been an advocate for known distance 3D for some time now. I have always agreed with your thoughts and feelings on the subject. Its so much more attractive to grow the sport. Especially with youth shooters. What are some things you would like to see moving forward with known distance 3D as a whole? Would you like to see any changes to current formats?

I always enjoy watching you shoot. I always get a kick out of your long D-loop. I could be incorrect but the Fanatic XL and the Reckoning both maxed out to 32" correct? In the past I never remembered you shooting such a long D-loop on the Fanatics.. Why is this different with the Reckoning 38? How long did it take you to get your anchor perfected with the longer D-loop


Thanks Tim!
 
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