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cam lean.... is it an issue or is a certain amount okay? If it is okay, what determines if it is acceptable or not?
 

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Sir Tim,
You mention using 4-5x with 0.15 pin for IBO, and running 6x with 0.19 pin for ASA.
1. What is the reasoning for the preference of more power magnification for asa?
2. Is coupling the bigger pin with the higher magnification intended to make the pin show up better if your using a different clarifier?


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Tim,
Thanks for taking time to share some great tips and information. Could you recommend a good indoor 5 spot target arrow set-up for my 12 yr old son? Something in the 23's diameter range? He's shooting an Elite Ember @ 30lbs, 21.5" draw length. I'm guessing he'll need something in the 500 spine range but would like to see if you have a better suggestion. Thanks again for all you do for this awesome industry.
 

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Tim, thanks so much for doing this. You're the man.

If a person were to try to get into command shooting coming from years of activating a thumb trigger from back pressure (or perceived back pressure. I dont decide when to hit the trigger), how do you get through the anticipation of the shot going off? How do you make sure you keep constant pressure through the shot and not bail on the push/pull last second?

I would like to try command shooting but have to admit I'm terrified of getting anticipation problems.
 

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I am not Tim and I don't have any where near his knowledge.

Here is my brief explanation of how I make a command shot. My release is a Tru Ball Pro Blade Quicksilver flex. I draw and come to anchor. I do not use any type of back tension. When the sight is on target, release still anchored in position and not moving, I press the thumb button with my thumb. I send the arrow into the X-ring. When you command shoot, you decide when to make the shot. The command shot is not a surprise shot. You (the shooter) will know when the shot goes off because you set the shot off on purpose. I hope this helps. Mr. Ken
 

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Hi Tim. Thanks for taking time out of your busy schedule and sharing your vast knowledge with us mere mortals. :).

I know you said you would not command shoot a hinge. Since a hinge is a mechanical release, just like an index or a thumb, why would you not command shoot a hinge? Thanks Mr. Ken
 

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Hi Tim. Thanks for taking time out of your busy schedule and sharing your vast knowledge with us mere mortals. :).

I know you said you would not command shoot a hinge. Since a hinge is a mechanical release, just like an index or a thumb, why would you not command shoot a hinge? Thanks Mr. Ken
so it’s true. Tim can put his pants on both legs at one time.
 
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I think I’ve heard you advise people to cut wide carbon arrows at the rest. Is that right?

If I’m shooting a little heavier poundage and an extra inch or two of arrow length would get me to an “optimal” spine setup, have you still found better performance by cutting them at the rest even in that situation? This is a test I’m planning to do soon, and I’m curious what you have found. I’m sure you’ve tested this far more than I’ll be able to.

D
 

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Tim-
Can you explain why you use some type of fingerless glove when you are shooting?

Thanks for jumping in and doing this Q&A by the way!
I wear a glove made of Lyra or spandex so that I get into my grip torque free. Grip tape feels nice but I do not shoot it as well. Also wear one under my release strap so it rotates freely and doesnt tear my skin up when I am sweaty
 

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I think I’ve heard you advise people to cut wide carbon arrows at the rest. Is that right?

If I’m shooting a little heavier poundage and an extra inch or two of arrow length would get me to an “optimal” spine setup, have you still found better performance by cutting them at the rest even in that situation? This is a test I’m planning to do soon, and I’m curious what you have found. I’m sure you’ve tested this far more than I’ll be able to.

D
Under stand first where this so called " Optimal Spine" comes from. It is simply statistical tuning data and has nothing to do with what is most accurate or consistent. I like the heavy part of the arrow, the point, to be as close to what controls it as possible or the rest loses leverage over it. You should be tuning the bow to the arrow. The charts can tell somewhat close if you are a finger shooter and have induced a ton of bad nock travel into the system but you should not have that with a release shot bow. Thats why one one arrow setup tunes for the finger shooter and you can basically shoot anything "stiff enough" out of a well tuned bow.
 

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Tim,

Thanks for taking the time to do this Q&A. To be able to ask questions to such an accomplished and professional archer is such a privilege.

I have a few questions if its ok,

What got you started in archery, did you start as a kid in a JOADD or S3DA type program, and when did you decide you wanted to go pro?

You have been an advocate for known distance 3D for some time now. I have always agreed with your thoughts and feelings on the subject. Its so much more attractive to grow the sport. Especially with youth shooters. What are some things you would like to see moving forward with known distance 3D as a whole? Would you like to see any changes to current formats?

I always enjoy watching you shoot. I always get a kick out of your long D-loop. I could be incorrect but the Fanatic XL and the Reckoning both maxed out to 32" correct? In the past I never remembered you shooting such a long D-loop on the Fanatics.. Why is this different with the Reckoning 38? How long did it take you to get your anchor perfected with the longer D-loop


Thanks Tim!
Ive never been coached formally other than a weekend with Frank Pearson many years ago and some mental coaching by Lanny Basham. I ve always had the felling that I wanted to compete professionally and that I could do anything I set my mind to. The loop is to reach my draw, yes. I was able to long string the Fanantics and get my draw. I cannnot do that with this Reckoning 38
 

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cam lean.... is it an issue or is a certain amount okay? If it is okay, what determines if it is acceptable or not?
Not as much as it is talked about. I use to have to lean my Hoyts over pretty hard to get the left tear out of them. What matters is where the string is delivered to the arrow. As long as you are not going to derail. The bowtechs I shoot have such good tuning systems that none of that is necessary. Tune jobs are 5 min now and I cannot laud enough praise at the engineers at Bowtech for that. Just because you spend $1200 on a bow does mean it will tune
 

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I am not Tim and I don't have any where near his knowledge.

Here is my brief explanation of how I make a command shot. My release is a Tru Ball Pro Blade Quicksilver flex. I draw and come to anchor. I do not use any type of back tension. When the sight is on target, release still anchored in position and not moving, I press the thumb button with my thumb. I send the arrow into the X-ring. When you command shoot, you decide when to make the shot. The command shot is not a surprise shot. You (the shooter) will know when the shot goes off because you set the shot off on purpose. I hope this helps. Mr. Ken
Basically it is your sight picture that is sending it. If you are thinking "now" then youll flinch.
 

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Tim, thanks so much for doing this. You're the man.

If a person were to try to get into command shooting coming from years of activating a thumb trigger from back pressure (or perceived back pressure. I dont decide when to hit the trigger), how do you get through the anticipation of the shot going off? How do you make sure you keep constant pressure through the shot and not bail on the push/pull last second?

I would like to try command shooting but have to admit I'm terrified of getting anticipation problems.
I use a wrist strap, Truball Execute,. I thump hook the neck and the thumb hook and the strap give me a kind of disconnect from the trigger. I can concentrate on pulling and feeling the alignment in the strap with a lighter pressure on the 6-8oz trigger. Pull hard to settle alighnemnt and hold and stabilize for slow soft movement and the sight picture linin g up finishes the shot. Just like you would shoot a rifle offhand
 

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Tim,
Thanks for taking time to share some great tips and information. Could you recommend a good indoor 5 spot target arrow set-up for my 12 yr old son? Something in the 23's diameter range? He's shooting an Elite Ember @ 30lbs, 21.5" draw length. I'm guessing he'll need something in the 500 spine range but would like to see if you have a better suggestion. Thanks again for all you do for this awesome industry.
Id shoot the Series 22 and I wouldnt worry about the spine. 3" feathers to keep his speed up and the 80 grain point and some FACT weights for optimum. Hes speed starved so start him at the 80 grains and feathers. work up in pint weight from there and cut them fairly close t o the rest in case he is growing is the only reason to leave them long
 

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I can s
Sir Tim,
You mention using 4-5x with 0.15 pin for IBO, and running 6x with 0.19 pin for ASA.
1. What is the reasoning for the preference of more power magnification for asa?
2. Is coupling the bigger pin with the higher magnification intended to make the pin show up better if your using a different clarifier?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I can see the lines better on McKenzie targets so I aim off of the more. IN IBO we use Rhineharts and the texture on the targets make it hard to see the lines so I opt for lower power that is clear as I may have to "silhouette" shoot some of them
 

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Why do you prefer an index/wrist release versus a thumb trigger release?
 

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Why do you prefer an index/wrist release versus a thumb trigger release?
I like my anchor with a handheld but I hate avoiding my collar with the thumb barrel. I think index realease are more forgiving as everything is in one linear line. I also like hooking the thumb behind my neck as it gives more support, leverage and keeps me from creeping as much. I seem to always end up back there
 
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