Archery Talk Forum banner

1 - 20 of 46 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
133 Posts
Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I know there are hundreds of posts on broadhead tuning and I have read most of them, I just can't seem to get mine tuned here is my setup.

Reflex Ridgeline 32
72 pounds draw
28.5" Draw length
Goldtip 7595's
Factory fletchings
arrows 27 7/8" long
100g field points
tried NAP Crossfire and NAP Nitron Broadheads
vital gear drop away rest
Papertuned for field points

My broadheads are hitting 4-5" left of my field points,
I have read this http://home.att.net/~sajackson/tuning_guide.pdf It said for right hand shooters to decrease spine, increase poundagem, use heaver broadheads or move rest to the right.

My bow draw weight is maxed out, the limbs were turned all the way in then backed off 1/4 turn

I am shooting Goldtip 7595's with a 340 spine all the charts show that I should be shooting this spine plus I have 2 dozen arrows already, even If I goto another manufactures selection chart it still recomends a 340 spine

I tried moving my rest to the right It helped a little I moved it more and it helped more, then the BH's were hitting lower and to the left, moved my knocking point moved my rest moved my knocking point moved my rest etc... Never could get them to group the same.

I had worn out my loop by moving it so much, so I went to the pro shop, got a new loop, and had him re-paper tune it. I then bought some NAP Nitron broadheads(was using crossfire). Took the bow home and sighted it in for broadheads, was hitting 2" pattern at 2o yards, 3 @ 30, 4 @40 and 5 @ 50. Put on a new broadhead, spin tested it in a arrow inspector(spun perfect). It still shoots exactly 4 to 5 inches to the left!


I am at a total loss. I want my broadheads and field points to shoot the same. I go hunting for rabbit, squerrell, etc.. in an area where there is wild hogs. I need to be able to grab the appropriate arrow from the quiver and just shoot without havint to aim different places or adjust my sites

Please advise!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
18,420 Posts
borrow some arrows that are less spine than your 340 and see what happens,those heads you have should fly the same as field points as small as they are,how is the timing on your drop away is it coming up in the last 2 inches of your draw? i think with some tinkering you should be able to get it close but i bet some 55/75s may do the trick
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
18,420 Posts
i have nothing against you trying mechanicals but they are not really solving your problem,if your setup wont shoot a quality fixed head something is not right,what are the factory fletch on your arrows,i am assuming 4 inch,if they are fletched straight you may want to take a few and put a helical on them or try some feathers,you may be able to get them to work for you.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,363 Posts
Those arrows are a little stiff. Try some 125 grain heads to "weaken" the spine of those arrows a bit.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
781 Posts
It is not your broadhead. It is your tuning. If your bow will shoot a bare shaft with field point into the group of fletched arrows with field points, it will also shoot a fletched arrow with broadhead, (any broadhead) into that group with fletched fild point tip arrows. Paper tuning might get you exact and it might only get you close. It is hard to tell the difference with a hole torn in paper.

If you are shooting right handed with release at 30 yards, bare shaft tail left is arrow too stiff, tail right is too weak. If you have tail right you need to move your rest to the left and visa versa.

Weight added to the front of the arrow makes it shoot weaker. Weight added to the back of the arrow makes it shoot stiffer. this includes the weight of vanes.

You can hear everything and anything on the Internet. The thing to do is try it yourself and find out. Prove it to your self! I won't shoot a bow that won't bare shaft at 30 yards into a 3" target with fletched arrows.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
10,277 Posts
One thing that catched my eye, is that your pro-shop guy papertuned your bow for you. YOU should be the one shooting the bow to tune it, because IMO, it can make a difference. The other is "factory" fletched arrows. Make sure they are helical or at least off-set fletched and not straight fletch.

Another thing, that is a fact, is some bows are just not completely "tunable". This can be due to a problem in the riser, cam lean that cannot be corrected, mis-drilled axle hole, etc.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
10,277 Posts
Also meant to mention, that IMO, with a release aid shot, being over stiff is rarely going to be a problem, and especially so with a drop away.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
133 Posts
Discussion Starter #11
I will go shoot during lunch, I will check my drop away timing, not sure how to check cam timing. I am going to try again to move my rest and see what happens.

I really really hope my spine is ok. I am shooting a drop away and a release both the easton and gold tip selection charts as well as my local pro shop recomends a 340 spine.

I really don't want to switch arrows I have 2 dozen 7595's and have shot them over 5000 times with field points for 3D and indoor.

Also I have 6 NAP crossfires and a set of spare blades and now have 3 NAP Nitrons, don't really want to goto a heaver broadhead, I added weight in the form of drilled our washers and it still shot to the left. I am really hoping I can fix it by adjusting the rest.

I would consider a helical or offset vane instead of straight, but isn/t spinning the arrow faster just covering up a tuning problem?

The local pro shop said I may be torqing the bow, I tried several different hand positions and shoot open handed, they still always group to the left of fieldpoints.

I may take the bow with a fieldpoint and broadhead to the local pro shop and ask them to shoot it into my block to eliminate it being me.


This is going to drive me crazy
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
10,277 Posts
I would consider a helical or offset vane instead of straight, but isn/t spinning the arrow faster just covering up a tuning problem?
No, absolutely not. This is the very first thing I would look at, before doing anything else. It isn't the arrow spine...I would be willing to bet on that.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
11,632 Posts
I would just move the sight to the left until your b-heads hit where you want and quit losing sleep over it. :)

Lien2
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
133 Posts
Discussion Starter #14 (Edited)
I would just move the sight to the left until your b-heads hit where you want and quit losing sleep over it. :)

Lien2
I commonly hunt for squerrel and rabbit in an area where there is wild hogs, I need to be able to grab a broadhead, fieldpoint, judo, or flu-flu with judo depending on the situation and animal. Yes I eat squerrel and rabbit.

I will do whatever it takes to get them hitting the same

PS:

The Flu-flu hits the same just lower so my pins mean different yardage

std flu-flu
20y 15y
30y 23y
40y 29y
50y 34y
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
133 Posts
Discussion Starter #15 (Edited)
Latest Update Now I am really confused!


Went out during lunch brought a Broadhead arrow and a feld point arrow, the broadhead was a NAP Nitron.

I was able to make a 1" group with them at 20 yards and a 2" group at 30 yards, shot them 6 times each and they always grouped together.

The only difference:

It was windy 10-15mph, I set up the block target so the wind was blowing at my back.

***? I shot and shot yesterday and BH were to the left, I got the bow all out of whack, installed a new loop, retuned for fieldpoints, and tried a slightly different BH the BH were still to the left!

No changes and they are hitting together, I know I have decent form, I can shoot a 290/300 indoor vegas and 297-299/300 5 spot indoor, and have won 2 3D tournaments....... Now I am really concerned, I am a ethical hunter and want to be 120% confident that I hit what I am aiming at, now I don't know if the arrow will hit left or not with a broadhead, I almost wish it was still hitting left and I could put my finger on the problem! I will shoot more tonight
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
109 Posts
This past year before hunting season I had the same problem!?!? I could not get my broadheads to shoot with my field points. I tuned and tuned and read everything I could about tuning, arrow spine, hand torque, and cam lean and still couldn't figure it out! I wasn't able to fix it before hunting season so I decided to got to the Rage's. They work awesome but I'd still like to be able to shoot fixed blades. I'm getting a new bow and I'm gona try a fall away and see if that fixes it! Hang in there I know how absolutely friggin' fustrating it is!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
133 Posts
Discussion Starter #17
see post above, what is frustrating is with zero changes the BH shot to the left last night, and BH and FT shot the same during lunch today!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
8,794 Posts
First I would make sure there is no cam lean going on with your bow. If one or both is leaning it will exaggerate small side to side problems. As you said though one time they are off and another time they are on and the B/H you are shooting are very small and should be money so I don't think it's the heads. Just for giggles I would also check your cam orientation just to make sure. I know with hybrid cams it isn't as big of a problem but if the are off enough that could mess you up as well. All those system have a sweet spot where the bow will shoot the best. But as you said it has been paper tune but those blades out front could be just enough to throw it all off if something isn't quite right. The last thing I'd try, some will say it doesn't matter, is to change the orientation of your broadheads. Put a washer or two between the head and shaft and experiment with them a little. I've found that sometimes that's all it takes. I don't think your stiff shafts are the problem. I shoot .340 spine in a 27" arrow @ 66lbs out of one of my rigs and they are lasers.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
345 Posts
why such short arrows

I do have a question for you, and please dont take it the wrong way... why so short arrows?.. 28.5'' draw and a 27 7/8 " arrow to me doesnt make sense. I shoot a 29'' draw but use a 30 " arrow. I too shoot the 7995's out of a 70lb. Pearson Stealth with a Trophy Taker Shakey Hunter fall-away. Tipped with any 100gr broadhead I try including the Magnus Stingers, Slick Tricks, Montecs, or FP's... they always hit spot on left/right. Although I do admit that the Montecs shoot about 3-4" low no matter what my distance to the target. I am getting about 280fps out of that longer arrow with my current set up, so I got plenty of speed.

I know I am not offering a solution to your problem, but I am just curious.

As far as my solution to your problem... I believe it is hand torque, because I bet you always shoot your FP's first, then switch to BH's... You could be fatigued by the time you shoot your BH's leading to hand torque. That is prolly why you shot so well at lunch... you just grabbed the BH's first and hit right on.?
 
1 - 20 of 46 Posts
Top