Shot my Aculeus 175 at my new target tonite and had to lay it down to pull arrows out of it arrows stuck / welded to the center ??? Anyone else have this happen to them ? You could see stuff stuck to the arrow when it came out. This was at 25 yds with a 430 grn arrow. Not happy
Ballistic 450 ??
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5,679 Posts
Some guys on here and i , will spray the end of the arrow with Pam cocking spray then wipe it down a little .
Should come out easy and no target residue on it .
Should come out easy and no target residue on it .
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11,775 Posts
It's a bag target right? , I think they're rated for 450 fps so I imagine it has some dense foam in the center and I bet that's whats grabbing and welding to the shaft...
Might want to back her up about half a football field with that cannon you're shootin ... lol
Might want to back her up about half a football field with that cannon you're shootin ... lol
I still have two cans of Jig a loo from years ago
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6,164 Posts
Slam it Den......The big dog needs a heavy chain:wink:
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6,164 Posts
I shot the big doe up here I got just where the front shoulder starts cause she was quartering towards me . That 550 grain went the full length of her and came out just in front of the hind quarter. Ouch!!!!
Good luck this weekend ,stick that ten to break it in right.
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2,675 Posts
If you watch some of the advertising videos: 1)the type of bow used, 2)the distance from the shooter to the target,
3)how much arrow shaft has not entered the target, is an indication how easy the arrows are to remove. The lower
the crossbow or vertical bow draw weight, the greater the distance to the target, the less arrow penetration making
for an easier arrow removal.
As for the advertised stopping speed in feet per second, the targets are way over advertised. One of my targets is
the Big Shot Extreme 500 which the manufacture lists as stopping 500 feet per second. I have added 2 layers of low
jute back carpet to each side just under the cover, 5 layers in the center and re cut and properly laid the military
grade fiber material so it stays flat and does not gradually come toward the center. As an added cover I have split
the Morrell Extreme II bag cover and put one half on each side over the existing cover. This target has much more
resistance now to the high draw weight, high speed crossbows.
If I were to rebuild another, instead of the two outer layers of jute back carpet, I would put them in the middle. The
reason for my design change is, if the vanes go through the set I now have and are trapped between the out carpet
layers and the inner carpet section, you can not push the arrow back out and almost impossible to pull it on through
due to the vanes hanging up which get ruined as well. The arrow can be moved back and forth but it is basically trapped
in the target. With out the out carpet layers, the arrow could be pushed back, then take a small flat screw driver and
gently work around the nock to remove the arrow.
Another target I have rebuilt similar is the Bull Dog XP Plus.
To help make it easier to remove the arrow, I put a wee bit of Trident Silicone Grease, the same as I lube the string
and cables and rail of the crossbow, on the front 4 to 6 inch of the arrow shaft. I then use an arrow griper and give a
good hard fast pull, being sure not to stand directly in front of the arrow.
Shooting my highly tuned and modified Barnett Ghost 410: 1) a 380 grain arrow-point combination (the same as Barnett
supposedly tested their Ghost 420) shoots 445 feet per second. 2) a 20" 412 grain arrow-point combination Barnett Custom
Head Hunter arrow (no Easton label) shoots 424 feet per second.
The higher the draw weight and faster the crossbow, the better the targets have to be built.
All the best.
3)how much arrow shaft has not entered the target, is an indication how easy the arrows are to remove. The lower
the crossbow or vertical bow draw weight, the greater the distance to the target, the less arrow penetration making
for an easier arrow removal.
As for the advertised stopping speed in feet per second, the targets are way over advertised. One of my targets is
the Big Shot Extreme 500 which the manufacture lists as stopping 500 feet per second. I have added 2 layers of low
jute back carpet to each side just under the cover, 5 layers in the center and re cut and properly laid the military
grade fiber material so it stays flat and does not gradually come toward the center. As an added cover I have split
the Morrell Extreme II bag cover and put one half on each side over the existing cover. This target has much more
resistance now to the high draw weight, high speed crossbows.
If I were to rebuild another, instead of the two outer layers of jute back carpet, I would put them in the middle. The
reason for my design change is, if the vanes go through the set I now have and are trapped between the out carpet
layers and the inner carpet section, you can not push the arrow back out and almost impossible to pull it on through
due to the vanes hanging up which get ruined as well. The arrow can be moved back and forth but it is basically trapped
in the target. With out the out carpet layers, the arrow could be pushed back, then take a small flat screw driver and
gently work around the nock to remove the arrow.
Another target I have rebuilt similar is the Bull Dog XP Plus.
To help make it easier to remove the arrow, I put a wee bit of Trident Silicone Grease, the same as I lube the string
and cables and rail of the crossbow, on the front 4 to 6 inch of the arrow shaft. I then use an arrow griper and give a
good hard fast pull, being sure not to stand directly in front of the arrow.
Shooting my highly tuned and modified Barnett Ghost 410: 1) a 380 grain arrow-point combination (the same as Barnett
supposedly tested their Ghost 420) shoots 445 feet per second. 2) a 20" 412 grain arrow-point combination Barnett Custom
Head Hunter arrow (no Easton label) shoots 424 feet per second.
The higher the draw weight and faster the crossbow, the better the targets have to be built.
All the best.
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2,400 Posts
That happens because of the heat from the speed of the arrow. If you can find a dry silicone it will work the best, no mess.
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42,158 Posts
Another good example of fast crossbows. They are spendy and in more than just one way too.
The Orion 175 I had was tearing up my two targets big time. I'm not experiencing this with my slower bow.
Speed can be nice but it can have a big effect on the bank account as well.
The Orion 175 I had was tearing up my two targets big time. I'm not experiencing this with my slower bow.
Speed can be nice but it can have a big effect on the bank account as well.
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2,675 Posts
Thanks for the information. Greatly appreciated.
All the best.
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42,158 Posts
That's the target I used for field points with my Orion 175. It stopped the arrows okay and they were, for the most part, easy to remove. But it didn't take long before it started destroying the target. It got to the point of where it would pull out some of the rags when removing an arrow. And in a couple of instances it actually pushed some of the rags thru the target before pulling them out when removing the arrows.
I no longer experience that with my slower bow.
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14,830 Posts
i use an Iron man target for filed points and a rhinehart crossbow block for broad heads.
I use a little vegtable oil in a lube tube on my six arrows. I can pull em out with 2 fingers. I do the lube thing before i go shooting. Very little lube is needed.
Really a piece of cake. But i get it, for some folks this is just too much hassel. I totally under stand this.
The faster the bow, the more you have to keep track of. Targets, luber, arrow pullers. Check timing, perfect arrows, it goes on and on.
I use a little vegtable oil in a lube tube on my six arrows. I can pull em out with 2 fingers. I do the lube thing before i go shooting. Very little lube is needed.
Really a piece of cake. But i get it, for some folks this is just too much hassel. I totally under stand this.
The faster the bow, the more you have to keep track of. Targets, luber, arrow pullers. Check timing, perfect arrows, it goes on and on.
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