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Hello all I am new to this forum and a fairly new archer.
My question is, if I choos to bare shaft tune do I need to use the same arrows that I will be whooting from the bow? I guess what I mean is I have many Easton XX78 arrows and only a limited number of good carbon (which are my hunting arrows). If the arrow flight is true with one arrow, shouldnt it be true for every arrow shot from that setup?
Thanks for any help
 

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You need to use the same shaft AND nock for your bare shaft.
the arrow flight will differ greatly between an aluminum and carbon shaft.

another important thing is the diameter of the shaft and the thickness of the nock. Both of those things will change the angle of the arrow shaft in a fletching jig and also on your bowstring.
 

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And by the way, the same arrow will fly differently with and without vanes too. Bare shaft tuning is only good to check for major problems in axis tuning (i.e. nock high/low, rest left/right) The arrow will fly completely differently with vanes on it. They stabilize the flight of the arrow, and add weight aft of center. Without them, the shaft is not stabilized. Your just firing a stick at high velocity. I'm just saying, don't waste a lot of time bare shaft tuning. You'll get better results actually shooting what your going to hunt with, and doing the walk back method.
 

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What rogue said,
I get the best shooting bow from a walk back tuning and use a bare shaft (5 ft) to get close on my rest nock adjustment up-down,left- right.
Paper tuning just gives me a restless night.
 

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Bare shaft arrow will fly as good as fletched arrow if your bow is properly setup (TUNED)... :wink: also, your broadhead will fly the same as your fieldpoint without moving any thing on your bow.... :)
 

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igniter3 said:
Bare shaft arrow will fly as good as fletched arrow if your bow is properly setup (TUNED)... :wink: also, your broadhead will fly the same as your fieldpoint without moving any thing on your bow.... :)
I definitely agree with you if you do the bare shaft tuning correctly. There is a completely different way of bare shafting for a release shooter. I have posted this several times and it will work on about every bow. There are how ever some limitations on the Binary Cam and the floating yoke cable for adjusting left and right.

You might have to make some corrections going from one arrow to another, mainly because of the diameter and possible weight. Fletching as far as changing the FOC do not have a bearing here. If you try to bare shaft after 20 yards, then you are waisting your time. You have to do it at about 20 yards or after the arrow has set a stable path for itself.
 
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