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Discussion Starter #1
i'm sure this has been asked a thousand times but I can't find a clear answer.
What is the main objective of bare shafting? Are the bare arrows supposed to be hitting the same spot as fletched? Or are they just meant to be stuck into the target at 90 degrees with no relation to the fletched arrow? Is walkback tuning the best way to find where the center of the rest should be? When i get my bares to touch the fletched (20yds) the nock is kicked up. A walkback test reveals a pattern like so: \ It's about as clear as mud to me.
Thanks to anyone who can help.
 

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I will post this again since I use it a lot and really advicate it. Bare shaft tuning is completely different for a release shooter than a finger shooter. First a good release shooter will have no trouble with my techniques and it should be done as the first level of tuning.

The reason being at twenty yards a shaft that is on target with a nock high attitude will rise several inches to even a foot over the target when it is corrected and traveling horizontally. and like wise a left or right kick when straighten will change the windage settings.

This is my tuning method and then I will do a walk back. But, I rarely make any adjustments during the walk back.

This really pays dividends for hunting. If the arrow starts out of the bow with say the nock high, then the fletchings have to drag the nock down. Now, suppose you and a broadhead to the front of it and the blades are level. As the arrow leaves the bow the blades will have a negative attack angle and will cause the point to dive. Now, the fletching have to work even harder to correct the nock high condition.

Bare Shaft Tuning

This technique is used for release shooters. The primary requirements are a target butt that will hold an arrow the way it entered the target. I usually use a foam wall at my local club, but a block or some other such target will work too. The cable(s) and string need to be of the correct length and the bow should be within specifications. Dual cam bows should have the cables of equal length. This tuning process may not work for floating yoke cable bows or the binary cams for left-right adjustment.

The other requirement of this process is to using properly spine arrow shafts. A computer program should be used to determine the proper spine, arrow shaft length and point weight. These shafts can be float tuned prior to assembly to ease this process(see float tuning below). The arrow should be match for overall weight prior to fletching. The arrow should be properly aligned and squared on the bow. A Golden Key Futura, Tru-Center Gauge should be used to align the rest.

The purpose of bare shaft tuning is twofold. The first part is to adjust the bow for an ideal launch. This means trying to stick the arrow in the butt without the nock being kick up, down, left, right or some combination. All of this shooting HAS to be done with the target at shoulder height. The purpose of this is to reduce drag by relieving the correctional control of the fletching during the launch and flight. This also allows the use of smaller fletching to reduce flight drag and trajectory loss. The second part determines the high spots in the arrow spine and allows the grouping of the arrows to improve. Float tuning provides this same benefit, but is static. The type of tuning is dynamic and therefore is the final step. Basically, float tuning will get you close, but bare shafting is conclusive.

To start, shoot a couple of arrows at 10, 15 and 20 yards to get an approximate sighting adjustment. It is not necessary to pinwheel the target but to try to keep the arrows on the target. After you have sighted in at 20 yards, notice the way the arrows are hitting the target. If the nock is high-left we need to start making adjustments. Leave one arrow in the target as a reference.

Why the nock is high and left is because of sight timing or tuning problems which is causing the string to push the nock a little up and to the left. The arrow eventually stabilizes, but is now in this nock high left flight attitude. Without the benefit of the fletching to correct it, it will remain in this attitude. This attitude is causing a lot of drag because the arrow surface area is wind planing.

To correct this we will added a half twist to either the top or bottom cable(s). Shoot a couple of arrows at the target. Compare these arrows to the reference arrow, if the nock is lower then you are on the right track if the nock is higher you are on the wrong. If you are on the right track, added another half twist to the cable and shoot the arrow again until it becomes level. If you end up with an arrow is either a little high or a little low, keep the slightly high setting. It is better to go over the launcher than through it.

To correct the left-right flight we will added a half twist to the left side of the split cable(s). If you are using a shoot through then add a half twist to each of the left cables. Keep shooting and twisting until the arrow is gong straight into the butt.

The next part of this tuning is to group tune the shafts. This would be best done with a Hooter Shooter, because your results will vary with your skill level. Assembling the arrow by float tuning may to some degree make this tuning method unnecessary, but if a consistent flyer is found it can be correct to some degree based on the shooter’s expertise.

I would use several targets during this procedure. I prefer the NFAA single spot target. Start at 10 yards and shoot a couple of arrows. If they seem to be in a common group remove them and set them aside. Shoot a couple of more. If they impact in the same holes as the first two, set them aside also. If one is out, shot it again. If it consistently is impacting away from the others set it off by itself. Continue shooting the arrows until you have separated the ones which group together from the one which don’t.

Now, move the nock on one of the non-grouping arrows by turning the nock a quarter of a turn. If it come into the group then set it with the others, if it doesn’t turn it another quarter and continue shooting and turning the nock until it does. If it refuses then change the nock and try again.

Now, more to 15 yards repeat this shooting and rotating the nock until you have all the arrows grouping. At this distance you should move the nock only about an 1/8th of a rotation. Finally, move to 20 yards and repeat this process this time rotating the nock about a 1/16th of a rotation.

If you are a reasonable shot, this process is quite amazing. You will almost want to forget fletching arrows. But, fletched arrows do work better. Once you have established the nock position, mark the shaft with a permanent marker. Use this mark as a reference for you cock feather when fletching.



Float Tuning

Float tuning is a process to determine the heaviest part of an arrow, which in turn is the stiffest part. This is done by construction of some plugs and floating the arrow shaft in a pan or bath tube to determine this high spot.

The easiest plug to construct by using a small wooden dowel. Chuck the dowel in an electric drill and rotate it on a flat sheet of sandpaper or file to produce a taper. Insert the finished plug into each end of the arrow shaft and then float the arrow shat in the tube. Spin it several times and determine the side which come up the most often by looking at the label. Mark the shaft at the nock end with a small dot and align the nock to it. Your results will vary from shaft to shaft some will have a definite high spot and others will have a best 3 out of 5.
 

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Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
Thank you, but...

Thank you Deezlin for your great article. I'm still a little lost. My Trykon is in time and syc. If I start twisting am I not going to start changing this? :confused3: The way I read it, bareshafting has nothing to do with rest placment. Is this true.
 

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I never did any paper tune or bare shaft at all. After I read many posts on bare shaft..... I said to myself, not thing to loose to try. I unfletch vanes off on one of my arrow just want to try, go out on my back yard try shoot at 10 yards and guess what hit right on the small one inch circle target just like my fletching arrow shot after shot.... than I back to 20 yards and hit 1/4" to 1/2" to the left with the bare shaft... but, I don't think I want to mess with my bow the way it is now... I just want to say bare shaft is work... :) if your bow is properly setup.
 

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Thib454SS said:
Thank you Deezlin for your great article. I'm still a little lost. My Trykon is in time and syc.
Is it? How do you know? How close is it? If you read my article again, note this:
"The cable(s) and string need to be of the correct length and the bow should be within specifications. Dual cam bows should have the cables of equal length. This tuning process may not work for floating yoke cable bows or the binary cams for left-right adjustment"

If the dual cam has both of it cables the same length, it is in time. Now, it is "visually" in time. But, it is not dynamically in time.

Thib454SS said:
The way I read it, bareshafting has nothing to do with rest placment. Is this true.
Again, read this statement again:
"The arrow should be properly aligned and squared on the bow. A Golden Key Futura, Tru-Center Gauge should be used to align the rest."

OK, the arrow should be square to the bow is how I setup the horizontal element. The GKF Tru-Center gauge setup the vertical center or center shot. I have found very little benefit to walk back tuning after using this method and the GKF gauge, but there can be some tweaking if you are an extremely good shot.

Ok, you say you have a time bow or it is in sync. If you do this visually, I would almost bet your bare shaft is going to stick in the back board nock high. Because you string angle or wrap angle on the cams are slightly different. This in inherient with any bow, because you are not pulling from the center of the string.

Now, I have never done this with a cam and half system. But, the cam and half is a hybrid and the buss cable controls the power and the control cable is the slave.

So, I would shoot a bare shaft at the wall again making sure it is shoulder high. Then if it was nock high, I would added a twist to the control cable. If the nock came down on the next shot, I would added another twiist or half a twist to it. If the nock went up then I would deduct a twist from the control cable. One way or another, I would keep the cam for leading or trailing the other.

Now, interestly enough, as you get the shaft horizontal then it will climb if it is nock high or it will drop if it is nock low. It is wind planing on the way to the target. You will probably have to move your sight quite a bit in order to finish with the arrow sticking in the target horizontally.

Now, as far as the floating yoke cable. I wish I knew why Hoyt uses these. I prefer the split cable assembly and this way i can adjust cam lean. With the floating yoke you get what you get. So, without capativating the yoke you have no adjustment ability, IMO.

Now, once you try this technique with success I would bet a fetch arrow will shoot right with the bare shafts. You may not get it perfect, but you will see a remarkable improvement.
 

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Bare shaft tuning a Single cam bow

I just recently completed bare shaft tuning my first single cam bow. Now with a single cam there is no timing adjustment capability. So, there is only two ways to adjust for a nock high or nock low flight. The first is tiller tuning, this would probably work if you were very close. However, I really though I was going to have to deduct too much poundage, if I used this method on the Cougar.

The second method is nock position. I could have used the rest, but again it did not seem very effective. Instead, I move the nock and it took almost a full 1/8 of an inch before the bare shafte was striking horizontally.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Thanks again Deezlin! I'll try the twist and shout the afternoon. The reason I know my timing and sync are on is my tiller is perfect and draw stop is rite on. Altough I have been wrong once or twice:lie: How bout the rest height? I have the center of the arrow even with the center of the berger hole.
 

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Thib454SS said:
Thanks again Deezlin! I'll try the twist and shout the afternoon. The reason I know my timing and sync are on is my tiller is perfect and draw stop is rite on. Altough I have been wrong once or twice:lie: How bout the rest height? I have the center of the arrow even with the center of the berger hole.
Yes, I always try to maintain the center of the arrow with the center of the rest.

Now, with this Bare shaft tuning method, I start out with the arrow square with the string. It is real a amazing process because you will see that by the time you are done that a 1/2 twist one way or the other may be too high or too low. If you can get down to this gnat ***** tuning, you will want to go with the slightly nock high setting.

Now, with most of my target bows, I use a fixed rest. So after I have completed this phase of tuning, I will generally drop the rest slightly to give the fletching a little clearance over the rest. I use a GKF Infiniti on most of my bows and pay attention to the tuning guage. With a drop-away rest, I would leave the rest and nock point alone, after I complete the bare shaft tuning.

This is not a new process or something I invented. This is the basic idea of using the Hooter Shooter. The only real difference is the Hooter is a machine and has constant form and execution. Certainly, it would be easier to do bare shaft tuning with it than the hand method I am using. But, since I don't have access to a Hooter, I am doing it the old fashion way, which may be better. Since, the bow and arrows are tuned to my form, execution and equipment.
 
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