[SlugLife5000]

I had my bow setup by my local shop when I bought it but was getting some erratic groups. I’ve just started bare shaft tuning to try to figure out what’s up and found 2 problems: bare shafts were hitting target angled downward (moved rest up 1/32” and they hit straight now), and left of my fletched shafts. The Easton guide says the second problem is a stiff spine and recommends a handful of remedies: decrease the spring tension in the rest, go down a size in arrow spine, turn up draw weight slightly, or add weight up front. I’ve already tried increasing my draw weight by ~5 lbs and no difference. My next move is to turn down the spring tension in my rest and/or add some weight up front on my arrows. I’d really like to avoid getting a weaker spined arrow if I can. Bare shafts hit about 3 inches left of fletched

Setup: Hoyt Ventum Pro 30, 65#/28.0” with Hamskea Hybrid Hunter.
Black Eagle renegades 27.0” with 12 grain wrap, 3 blazer vanes helical fletched and 125 gr field point. Arrow weight is 502 gr with 14% FOC.

Has anyone had any luck tweaking these variables to get a better result?

 

[Mighty Mouse]

The spring tension adjustment mentioned in the Easton tuning guide is not referring to a drop away rest. It's talking about a cushion plunger, which no one uses any more with a compound bow. There's no need to adjust the spring tension on your Hamskea.

There's also no need to change anything about your arrow. The old "nock right paper tear/bareshaft hitting left = arrow is too stiff" advice doesn't have much relevance to a compound bow shot with a mechanical release. You should be able to get bareshafts hitting with fletched shafts by moving the rest and/or shimming the cams.

Start with the rest at 13/16" centershot then adjust rest windage in small increments (bareshaft left of fletched = move rest to the left and vice versa). If you have to shift the rest more than 1/8" away from 13/16" centershot, then shim the cams (bareshaft left of fletched = shim cams to the right and vice versa). See below for a handy tuning guide from Gold Tip.

 

[Ezekiel]

As purely personal preference on my part, I would do a little walk back tuning before getting into shinning Cam's
Definitely set your center shot correctly but try a little walk back tuning second.

 

[SlugLife5000]

I’m still super new to tuning on my own. How do I set center shot and what am I measuring 13/16” from?

 

[Mighty Mouse]

I’m still super new to tuning on my own. How do I set center shot and what am I measuring 13/16” from?

Centershot is the horizontal distance between the inside of the riser and the center of the arrow shaft (or center of the rest fork/cradle). Centershot is adjusted by moving the rest left/right. Hoyt recommends a centershot between 5/8" and 1", so you could go up to 3/16" (a little more than I suggested earlier) inside/outside of 13/16" and still be considered in spec.

 

[BigXX78]

I had my bow setup by my local shop when I bought it but was getting some erratic groups. I’ve just started bare shaft tuning to try to figure out what’s up and found 2 problems: bare shafts were hitting target angled downward (moved rest up 1/32” and they hit straight now), and left of my fletched shafts. The Easton guide says the second problem is a stiff spine and recommends a handful of remedies: decrease the spring tension in the rest, go down a size in arrow spine, turn up draw weight slightly, or add weight up front. I’ve already tried increasing my draw weight by ~5 lbs and no difference. My next move is to turn down the spring tension in my rest and/or add some weight up front on my arrows. I’d really like to avoid getting a weaker spined arrow if I can. Bare shafts hit about 3 inches left of fletched

Setup: Hoyt Ventum Pro 30, 65#/28.0” with Hamskea Hybrid Hunter.
Black Eagle renegades 27.0” with 12 grain wrap, 3 blazer vanes helical fletched and 125 gr field point. Arrow weight is 502 gr with 14% FOC.

Has anyone had any luck tweaking these variables to get a better result?

Mighty Mouse is right. Stiff spine wouldn't affect anything with your bow. You never mentioned what spine deflection your arrows are. I'd think .300's would be about perfect, but .250's would also be easily tunable too.

 

[SlugLife5000]

Thanks for the help guys. I’m going to check out the center shot and update after.

 

[Steven Bressan]

You can also add weight to the front of your arrows. I'm shooting stiff arrows with 85 grain points on full 32 inch 400 spine arrows. The Easton Chart recommends 500 for under 32" but does recommend 400s but with 175 grain tips.

My arrows shoot left and my bare shafts shoot more to the left. Next to changing the weight of the arrow I'm thinking of buying 500s which are recommended for shooter arrows in case I decide to shoot less than 32s

 

[armstrongcam22]

I agree with what s been said. You're arrows are fine you just need to do a little high level tuning. Sounds like you put the cart before the horse with bare shaft tuning.

 

[SlugLife5000]

Got it sorted (minus the one I punched the trigger on lol). Thanks for all the help y’all!

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