[gemini2281]

So I had just fletched some arrows and decided to go shoot. Like an idiot I grabbed one of the newly fletched arrows as well as my older ones. A few shots in, the new one passes through and rips up my fletching. So I figured I'd just shoot bare shaft to see what would happen.

From 10 yards and 20 yards the nock end is REALLY high. It looked like I had shot it from a tree stand. What does this mean? I know absolutely nothing about tuning so I have no clue where to start.

Bow info is in the sig, only difference is I had the cam switched so now I'm shooting 29" at 60#.

My arrows are XX75 2117 at 29 inches with a 100gr field point.

I'd appreciate any help I could get.

 

[broguearcher]

WOW!!!! 2117 XX75s!!! Haven't heard about any of those in ages!!!! bet those suckers are fairly heavy....

As far as the tuning issues go... I used to do some bare shaft tuning but I no longer do don't remember what nock high indicates... I do recall that may have had something to do with nocking point being too low??? not sure....

take a look at this: http://www.onlinearchery.org.uk/imgs/bare.gif

 

[C Doyle 88]

If you have a firm arrow rest----the nock end of the shaft can be bouncing off of the rest from to much nock low pressure---

Cam timing/one cam bows/and just nock point can cause this

You can get nock---Hi/LOW conditions with bad palm pressures in your grip

Sooooo when you decide to tune with bare shafts -----you must be ready for TRUTH's that you never expected

If you have the mental stamina for it ----archer up---and have fun

 

[wis_archer]

1. What kind of target are you using?

2. You probably bent your arrows by bare shafting them....it is a bad idea out of a compound bow, I've bent all of mine that way, 2315s.

 

[red44]

Different opinion of bare shafting here I guess.
Your freedom rest is a cordless drop-away from what I see on NAP's site.
I assume your bow has timing marks for cam orientation. Check that first.
Are you using a loop or not?
Use either spray footpowder on the rest or lipstck on your vanes and see if you have vane/rest contact.
This could be one or more of a few things going on. You just have to go one thing at a time and narrow it down.

 

[gemini2281]

WOW!!!! 2117 XX75s!!! Haven't heard about any of those in ages!!!! bet those suckers are fairly heavy....

As far as the tuning issues go... I used to do some bare shaft tuning but I no longer do don't remember what nock high indicates... I do recall that may have had something to do with nocking point being too low??? not sure....

take a look at this: http://www.onlinearchery.org.uk/imgs/bare.gif

LOL Yeah, they're old arrows. I shot carbon for a while but several of my family members kept giving me aluminums so that is pretty much all I shoot now. And yeah, they are heavy. But I don't take any shots over 30 yards so speed isn't really a big issue for me.

However, do you think the 2117's are TOO heavy for what I'm shooting? I'm still very new so I don't know exactly what is too heavy. I've got some 2114's, would those be better?

Also, after looking at that image you posted; my shots are pretty much dead on as far as aim point, the thing is just kicked up like I had shot it from a platform.

If you have a firm arrow rest----the nock end of the shaft can be bouncing off of the rest from to much nock low pressure---

Cam timing/one cam bows/and just nock point can cause this

You can get nock---Hi/LOW conditions with bad palm pressures in your grip

Sooooo when you decide to tune with bare shafts -----you must be ready for TRUTH's that you never expected

If you have the mental stamina for it ----archer up---and have fun

Palm pressure is a definite possibility. I am still working on my grip. The guys at the shop corrected it for me but I tend to fall back into my bad habits after a lot of shooting. And I'm completely ready for the truth's. I want to get better and correct the things I am doing wrong.

1. What kind of target are you using?

2. You probably bent your arrows by bare shafting them....it is a bad idea out of a compound bow, I've bent all of mine that way, 2315s.

I'm shooting a bag target.

As far as bending, would the lack of fletching really make that much of a difference?

Different opinion of bare shafting here I guess.
Your freedom rest is a cordless drop-away from what I see on NAP's site.
I assume your bow has timing marks for cam orientation. Check that first.
Are you using a loop or not?
Use either spray footpowder on the rest or lipstck on your vanes and see if you have vane/rest contact.
This could be one or more of a few things going on. You just have to go one thing at a time and narrow it down.

I just had a new cam put on the bow today. Wouldn't the shop have made sure everything was correct?

I'll check for vane contact. I just put a new head on the Freedom rest. The old head was causing serious contact for some reason so maybe this new head didn't fix it after all.

 

[red44]

Cam Orientation, the shop should have, but you should know or learn where it should be. As for the 2117 or 2114s, two different spines (stiffnesses) there as well as weights. 2117 are heavy and durable, they're a 400 spine arrow. The 2114s are lighter in weight but also a 500 (weaker) spine.

 

[gemini2281]

Cam Orientation, the shop should have, but you should know or learn where it should be. As for the 2117 or 2114s, two different spines (stiffnesses) there as well as weights. 2117 are heavy and durable, they're a 400 spine arrow. The 2114s are lighter in weight but also a 500 (weaker) spine.

Since I'm shooting a lower weight, is the weaker spine an issue? I'm shooting at 60# now but when it is time to hunt I turn it down to about 53#.

 

[harley]

1. What kind of target are you using?

2. You probably bent your arrows by bare shafting them....it is a bad idea out of a compound bow, I've bent all of mine that way, 2315s.

What? I never heard of this. A properly tuned bow will shoot a bare shaft perfectly at 20yds. It's probably the nocking point.

 

[red44]

At 53 I think you could shoot the 500 spine. I plugged in that DW, 28" arrow, and 100 grain points into the easton shaft selector and it came up with .460-500 spine. So I think that'd be OK.
However, if the arrow is 29, ior the weught is higher, up to 60, the 400 spine might be a safer choice.
If you can cut the 2114s down to 28, you'll gain a little speed/flatter trajectory. That's about it.
Now to solve you high nock issue...check the cam, check for contact. Did you say wheather or not you use a loop?

 

[red44]

What? I never heard of this. A properly tuned bow will shoot a bare shaft perfectly at 20yds. It's probably the nocking point.

I've broken carbons with badly matched spine or centershot set-up, so I do think it's possible to bend aluminums.

 

[gemini2281]

At 53 I think you could shoot the 500 spine. I plugged in that DW, 28" arrow, and 100 grain points into the easton shaft selector and it came up with .460-500 spine. So I think that'd be OK.
However, if the arrow is 29, ior the weught is higher, up to 60, the 400 spine might be a safer choice.
If you can cut the 2114s down to 28, you'll gain a little speed/flatter trajectory. That's about it.
Now to solve you high nock issue...check the cam, check for contact. Did you say wheather or not you use a loop?

Sorry, must have missed the loops question. Yes, I shoot a loop.

 

[wis_archer]

I'm shooting a bag target.

As far as bending, would the lack of fletching really make that much of a difference?

Your arrows don't go in straight chances are so when it goes in the tail end wants to continue its path, and bends to the side (unless the bow is perfectly tuned)

 

[wis_archer]

What? I never heard of this. A properly tuned bow will shoot a bare shaft perfectly at 20yds. It's probably the nocking point.

I know quite a few people who've bent them that way including myself.