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I'm stuck and in need of some advice. My bow is shooting great through paper, so now I'm on to bare shaft tuning. At 20 yards, my fletched arrows are hitting great, but my bare shafts are hitting Left. I moved in to 8 yards, moved my rest a touch and now they're hitting bulls eye. I haven't shot fletched arrows yet, so here is where I'm in need of some advice. When I go to shoot fletched arrows and they aren't hitting the bulls eye, I only adjust my sights, correct? If not, what is the next step?

Can you or do you bare shaft tune when walk back tuning?

At what point do you leave the rest alone and only adjust your sights? Thanks!
 

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I just bare shaft tune. I don't do walk back. If the bare shaft is hitting left of fletched, you can:

A. Move your rest right
B. Twist right yoke, untwist left
C. Shim cam (right I believe)

All methods will require you to readjust your sight AFTER.

get bareshaft grouping with fletched first then fine tune zero your sight
 

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In order to get bare shafts flying true at 20 yards , the archers form has got to be good . Here's what I do and for the sake of ArcheryTalk just my opinion . First I'll start at say 3yds. with fletched and bare shooting at a vertical line . (This is after everything is level , and shot through paper close to bullet hole as can be). Here I move sight to hit that vertical line ( split it as to say ) with both bare and fletched . Then I'll go back to 18yds (basement shooting) and shoot the bare and fletched together again at that vertical line , At this point if you're missing left or right move the rest and then go back to 3yds. and see where your sight is on the vertical line have to move sight if missing , then go back to 18yds. Repeat this until you split that line from both 3yds and 18yds and when you go to do a walk back or broadhead tune , you should be good to go . IF SHOOTING INTO A BAG TARGET ARROWS WILL KICK SIDEWAYS , AND TO MAKE YOU THINK YOUR GETTING A TAIL WHIP RIGHT OR LEFT FROM YOUR BARE SHAFTS .
 

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Discussion Starter #4
This is where it gets Grey to me. When I shoot a fletched arrow (and I understand how important grip is) and its off, I adjust the sight only correct? If I do that, wouldn't that make my bare shaft's hit off target? I'm trying to my arrows, fletched and bare, hitting together and understand the process.
 

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Your fletched and bare should hit together no matter, if your tune is correct and form ..... I would or should say I only move my sight at the 3 yd range , anything pass that i'm adjusting rest to get bare and fletched to hit together . When you stand at close range do they hit together bare and fletched ?
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I haven't had the chance to shoot fletched arrows. My plan is to do that tonight (waiting on the wife to get home to watch the kids). When I do get to shoot tonight and if I ran into this issue, I want to make sure I know what to do to fix it.
 

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You need to shoot a bare shaft and fletched arrow at the same time. Sight in with fletched and shoot bare shaft. Which ever way the bare shaft hits you then make proper adjustments. It is not easy to do for most people as you have to be very consistent with grip and form. You should also shoot bare shaft a few times to make sure you are getting consistent results.
 

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Sounds good . When you go to 20yds after shooting both fletched and bare and they are hitting that vertical line at close range, just take your bare shafts to 20 and see how they do on the vertical line . If off I would just move rest till you get bare hitting that line (will also have to check short range for sight adjustment after ) . If I was a betting man those fletched should hit right with the bare at 20 also .
 

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Don't worry about your sight. I don't care if I miss the dot I'm aiming at by a foot as long as my bareshafts and my fletched are hitting together and the bareshaft is straight. From there, you adjust your sight to hit the target. Adjusting your sight has no affect on your tune.
 

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At what point do you leave the rest alone and only adjust your sights? Thanks!
IronFireman, that is a pretty complex question.

All of the adjustments are interactive.
Try to use only one factor at a time.

Beyond that, if you know your timing and sync are on, you need to have the rest/shaft at center of mass/center of force, when you trigger your release.

Take a look at this: http://www.eastonarchery.com/downloads/tuning-guide

I have tuned to shoot bows since it was available in printed form. (No internet) It still works.
 

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Are you shooting a whisker biscuit? If so, you may find that you need to move the rest towards where the bare shaft is hitting on the windage adjustment if the bare shaft and fletched are not hitting together..

I have/have had 4 different bows, all with WBs. (one dual yoke/dual cam, one hybrid with one yoke, two binaries with no yokes). For all 4, I had to move the rest in the direction the bare shaft was hitting. The last one I finished dialing in today, having just bought it as a bare bow. When I walk back tuned after getting the bare and fletched close at 20yds using both fletched and bare shafts from each spot (about 10 paces between shots), the fletched moved to the right and the bare moved to the left as I moved farther back. I moved the rest to the left less than 1/32" and they all came together in a straight line.

So, if moving the rest one direction doesn't work, try moving it the other. Just move it in very small increments each time, because it is really easy to overshoot the sweet spot.

Realize moving the rest is just one way or just part of the process in skinning this cat. If you have yokes, they may be the solution if moving the rest doesn't work, or if it ends up way off factory recommended center shot. Shimming the cams and adjusting how far in or out the cable slide is are other methods used to fine tune.

Before walk back, set your sight dead on windage-wise. If when walk back tuning, the fletched and bare shafts are hitting together but the line looks slanted, check that the 2nd axis on the sight is correct before messing with the rest.

As stated above, you must have very consistent form for the bare shafts' points of impact to have any meaning. If you are consistently getting bullet holes through paper when close up, sounds like your form is okay.

Go
 

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Like the guy above said, I also moved my rest towards bareshaft impact point, sounds backwards, but it can fix the problem with left impacts / right tears. I know you may read to move rest right, but from my experience that's not always the case.
 
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