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I am trying to tune up my allegence after switching to small diameter arrows and wa going the easton tuning guide. (I have never done this before) and my bare shafts are hitting above my fletched shafts. the guide says to move the nocking point but I have dailed the rest in either yet. can I just adjust the rest down a hair? What about paper tuning after that too, if I have already adjusted the rest for the bare shafts will I want to move it for paper tuning or is that the logic in moving th nocking point first. Thanks for the help. BG
 

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I'm no expert, but I always paper tune first. It gets you much closer to where you need to be before bare shaft tuning. This is the time to "dial in" the rest as close as possible.
Bare shafts hitting above fletched shafts seems normal, given that they have less drag on them. What's important is how they are striking the target, ie: nock high/low or nock left/right. The point of impact will be different than with fletched arrows. You can always do the "walk up" test too.
I'm fairly sure I'm correct about this, but if not, maybe one of the tuning guru's can chime in here.
 

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BGGooseKiller said:
I am trying to tune up my allegence after switching to small diameter arrows and wa going the easton tuning guide. (I have never done this before) and my bare shafts are hitting above my fletched shafts. the guide says to move the nocking point but I have dailed the rest in either yet. can I just adjust the rest down a hair? What about paper tuning after that too, if I have already adjusted the rest for the bare shafts will I want to move it for paper tuning or is that the logic in moving th nocking point first. Thanks for the help. BG

A good paper tune at 6 and 12 feet is all that is needed, the paper will show if the arrow is flying straight or not, if it is there is nothing you can do to improve it, if not it the arrow will leave a slot in the paper so you know to make an adjustment. Sometimes it is not obvious why the arrow has a "kick" and simple rest/nock adjustments won't get it. Thats were many have gotten frustrated and stopped paper tuning. Just take a systematic approach and eliminate all the possible causes and you'll be able to find and fix and arrow flight problems.

Setup and Tune Procedure
 

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JMHO so don't roast me everyone. Paper tuning is not the answer to all tuning problems. It is only a starting point. If you want to set your rest/center shot perfect--- do walk back tuning. You can do a search on here and find walk back tuning:wink: I creep tune to get my nock set adjustment. To end it all I broadhead tune to get my broadheads to fly like fieldpoints and then sight in and go hunting.:wink: Like I said--- JMHO.:) :darkbeer:
 

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BGGooseKiller said:
So is it safe to assume my nocking point is ok and just go right to paper.
Actually its not safe to assume anything. I'm not trying to be funny or insulting so please forgive me.:wink: Anyway, on your question about moving the rest. Yes you can move your rest and get the same results as moving your nock. The starting point for your rest/arrow is approx centered on the berger hole. Thats only a starting point and as long as you have vane clearance lower is ok. I try not to go higher because the berger hole is approx 2' higher than center of your shooting string. If your center shot is perfect it will be on line at 10,20,30,40,50,60, yds and beyond. Alot of times paper tuning does not get your center shot perfect and you'll end up hitting X's at 10 yds and off to one side or the other at farther distances back. Thats why I much perfer walk back tuning to get the center shot set.

My system is to shoot a bare shaft at 10 yds and adjust rest and nock until it flies straight. After this it is what I call Micro tune, because the adjusments are very very small. Think about it---- if you're adjusting something to move the strike of an arrow 1 inch at 50yds away. Its a very small adjusment. Most people make to big of adjusments and end up going back and forth or just getting pissed and quit. :wink: I then walk back tune to make sure of the center shot. I then broadhead tune. Sight in and go hunting. Works for me. :wink: There are numerous ways to get your bare shaft to shoot straight at 10 yds. You may have to adjust lbs of draw weight, change weight points, change arrows, add wraps, adjust rest, adjust nocking point etc. etc. Follow the tuning guide on that and you won't go wrong. Hope I've helped a little and not screwed up you mind.:) :darkbeer:
 
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