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Discussion Starter #1
So, here is a pic of my 1st attempt at bare shaft tuning. My first fletched (F1)arrow and bare shaft(B1) at 9' were overlapping holes. Moved back to 15' and put both in the same hole (F2,B2). Moved back to 30'. F3 did not feel like a great shot so then shot F4 and B3. I have NOT made ANY sight or rest adjustments as of yet. Obviously I am very happy with the 9' and 15' results. the 30' result is just over a 1" separation. I am thinking this could just be a difference in actual execution on my part. Would you recommend any adjustment yet? I am thinking that I will retry at 30' to see if I get the same result.
IMG_0863 (1).jpg
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Pic is rotated 90 degrees. F3 should be on top
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Actually, F4 and B3 are about 13/16ths apart. less than an inch.
Just shot another F and B at 30'. (F5 and B4) Exactly 1/2" difference.
IMG_0864.jpg
 

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Without being able to see the angle of the bareshaft compared to fletched, it's more difficult to tell what's going on. Maybe try shooting again and taking pictures of the two in the target. Don't bother with the shorter distances. Step back as far as you can. Most use 20 yards as a sort of standard. I personally start with a bow at 10 yards just to make sure there's no crazy bad bareshaft flight so I don't break arrows or lose them from missing a target. Then I go to 20 yards.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Without being able to see the angle of the bareshaft compared to fletched, it's more difficult to tell what's going on. Maybe try shooting again and taking pictures of the two in the target. Don't bother with the shorter distances. Step back as far as you can. Most use 20 yards as a sort of standard. I personally start with a bow at 10 yards just to make sure there's no crazy bad bareshaft flight so I don't break arrows or lose them from missing a target. Then I go to 20 yards.
I can get to 15 yds in my basement. Will shoot a couple more and post a pic with the arrows.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
OK, much greater difference at 15 yds. At 10yds was getting a little knock high on bare shaft. More pronounced at 15yds. Bare shaft is about 2" low and 3" left of Fletched with knock high.
IMG_0866.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Again, pics are turned 90 degrees
 

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So it's nock high and right. Is this with your Halon 32 and with Whisker Biscuit rest?
 

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Without more info on the bow a guess would be to move the rest slightly to the left 1/32 to 1/16 and up the same and shoot again. If your bs is hitting left that suggests a nock right condition. And it also has a tail high condition. Those suggestions should start to correct the problems. More imfo on your setup would also help diagnose other problems. Also make sure your grip is consistent. Huntinskr is really sharp on tuning any suggestions he has I would listen to as well.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Bare shaft is knock high and slight right and impact low/left . (pic is rotated 90) Shadows of arrows point to the floor. And yes, Halon 32 and whisker biscuit
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I am shooting at 56 lbs with GT Hunter arrows 400 spine with 100 grain points. actual draw length is just over 28" (27.5 mods but Mathews runs longer). I have some 27" mods on order to hopefully get me closer to the 27.5) 28.5" arrows.
 

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Raise your rest slightly Assuming bow cams are synced and limbs are even (tiller). I like to put a pencil mark in case it slips. Can you get someone to take a pic of your grip at full draw. If you don't have a good grip (which to say no grip at all) you will be chasing your tail bare shaft tuning. I didn't see a mention as to if you are right handed? The following instructions will assume right handed and you are not torquing the grip. You can move your rest to the left (move fletched towards your bare shaft). You can move your cams to the right, or if you have yokes, add tests to the right and/or remove from the left. How do you know which one to do? look at the bow, does anything look out of line? place an arrow on your riser parallel to a nocked arrow, id your nocked arrow crooked? Poor release hand and release can do this as well as face pressure. Bare shaft tuning is as much about you as the bow!
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Raise your rest slightly Assuming bow cams are synced and limbs are even (tiller). I like to put a pencil mark in case it slips. Can you get someone to take a pic of your grip at full draw. If you don't have a good grip (which to say no grip at all) you will be chasing your tail bare shaft tuning. I didn't see a mention as to if you are right handed? The following instructions will assume right handed and you are not torquing the grip. You can move your rest to the left (move fletched towards your bare shaft). You can move your cams to the right, or if you have yokes, add tests to the right and/or remove from the left. How do you know which one to do? look at the bow, does anything look out of line? place an arrow on your riser parallel to a nocked arrow, id your nocked arrow crooked? Poor release hand and release can do this as well as face pressure. Bare shaft tuning is as much about you as the bow!
Been really concentrating on a consistent grip. And getting similar results numerous times so I believe my grip is ok.
Moved rest to left, and then moved rest up but got a horrible low(distance) on BS compared to FS. Went back and lowered rest and got this.... Still a little knock high and right, but not as bad as before. But impact were very close... 1/4" or so.
IMG_0867.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter #15
crap.... now pic is rotated 180 degrees.... BS is knock high and right.... but not as bad.
 

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When suffering through bare shaft tuning, when do you know to adjust rest and when do you adjust yokes?
STEP 1. Set the arrow rest so the arrow points STRAIGHT ahead, and not crooked left or crooked right. BUT, how do I know what direction is dead straight ahead? I mean, what if the stabilizer hole is drilled crooked? Well, if you think your stabilizer bushing is installed crooked, ignore the front stabilizer. Do you believe your riser is not twisted? If your riser is not twisted, then the sight horizontal arm is dead parallel. So, set the arrow rest so the arrow is dead parallel to the sight horizontal arm.



Two arrow method, to set your arrow rest so the arrow is pointing STRAIGHT. Just pinch an arrow to your riser, and then compare to the arrow on the arrow rest.



STEP 2. Adjust the yoke legs, until your arrow does this, when you pinch an arrow tight to the LEFT side of the top cam. WHICH side is the left side? When you stand behind the bow, and you are looking at the target, the left side of the top cam is on your left.



Pinching arrow tight to the left side of the top cam.



POINT of the arrow is a tiny tiny bit to the right of the bowstring centerline. THIS is a good starting point, for adjusting your yoke legs, before you fire the first arrow.

DO not move the arrow rest, and DO not adjust your yoke legs, when you start shooting your bareshafts. Huh? What? What do you mean, don't tweak the yoke legs? Example of somebody who went CRAZY tweaking yoke legs, when bareshaft tuning. THIS much yoke tuning is CRAZY too much.



But form does not matter, right? AS long as my form is consistent, then, who cares how much I have to yoke tune, to get my paper tuning bullet hole. Form does matter. Draw length matters. THIS fella twisted and twisted and twisted his left yoke leg, SOOOOO much, to try and kill his left paper tear, that the string is ready to roll up and over the edge of the top cam. So, DON't tweak your yoke legs, when you are firing bareshafts at 5 yards, or 10 yards or even 20 yards. If you need to YOKE tune your yoke legs a WHOLE BUNCH, then, you have a form problem, you have a draw length problem. So, work on form, and find the correct draw length so you can do this at 10 yards.



Cardboard in front of your target. Fire a bareshaft first. PULL out the bareshaft. Now, fire a fletched arrow. Are the holes side by side? If not, work on your form, work on your draw length. IF your arrows are side by side (hole for fletched and hole for bareshaft), then, proceed to 20 yards. At 20 yards, stick a horizontal strip of masking tape on the target. FIX vertical problems, first.



Bareshaft and fletched are out of parallel, the two tubes are not parallel. Bareshaft also hit higher. No, this is not cuz there is no tape at the back end. Need to move the d-loop down the bowstring, or my preference, MESS with the cam sync (what so many call cam timing). Won't take much. Maybe half a twist in ONE cable. You have to figure out if you need to ADD or REMOVE one half twist, from ONE of the cables. LEave the other cable alone.



BAM. Vertical control is fixed. BUT, what about the yoke legs? What about horizontal for bareshafts that miss sideways?
 

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STEP 1. Set the arrow rest so the arrow points STRAIGHT ahead, and not crooked left or crooked right. BUT, how do I know what direction is dead straight ahead? I mean, what if the stabilizer hole is drilled crooked? Well, if you think your stabilizer bushing is installed crooked, ignore the front stabilizer. Do you believe your riser is not twisted? If your riser is not twisted, then the sight horizontal arm is dead parallel. So, set the arrow rest so the arrow is dead parallel to the sight horizontal arm.



Two arrow method, to set your arrow rest so the arrow is pointing STRAIGHT. Just pinch an arrow to your riser, and then compare to the arrow on the arrow rest.



STEP 2. Adjust the yoke legs, until your arrow does this, when you pinch an arrow tight to the LEFT side of the top cam. WHICH side is the left side? When you stand behind the bow, and you are looking at the target, the left side of the top cam is on your left.



Pinching arrow tight to the left side of the top cam.



POINT of the arrow is a tiny tiny bit to the right of the bowstring centerline. THIS is a good starting point, for adjusting your yoke legs, before you fire the first arrow.

DO not move the arrow rest, and DO not adjust your yoke legs, when you start shooting your bareshafts. Huh? What? What do you mean, don't tweak the yoke legs? Example of somebody who went CRAZY tweaking yoke legs, when bareshaft tuning. THIS much yoke tuning is CRAZY too much.



But form does not matter, right? AS long as my form is consistent, then, who cares how much I have to yoke tune, to get my paper tuning bullet hole. Form does matter. Draw length matters. THIS fella twisted and twisted and twisted his left yoke leg, SOOOOO much, to try and kill his left paper tear, that the string is ready to roll up and over the edge of the top cam. So, DON't tweak your yoke legs, when you are firing bareshafts at 5 yards, or 10 yards or even 20 yards. If you need to YOKE tune your yoke legs a WHOLE BUNCH, then, you have a form problem, you have a draw length problem. So, work on form, and find the correct draw length so you can do this at 10 yards.



Cardboard in front of your target. Fire a bareshaft first. PULL out the bareshaft. Now, fire a fletched arrow. Are the holes side by side? If not, work on your form, work on your draw length. IF your arrows are side by side (hole for fletched and hole for bareshaft), then, proceed to 20 yards. At 20 yards, stick a horizontal strip of masking tape on the target. FIX vertical problems, first.



Bareshaft and fletched are out of parallel, the two tubes are not parallel. Bareshaft also hit higher. No, this is not cuz there is no tape at the back end. Need to move the d-loop down the bowstring, or my preference, MESS with the cam sync (what so many call cam timing). Won't take much. Maybe half a twist in ONE cable. You have to figure out if you need to ADD or REMOVE one half twist, from ONE of the cables. LEave the other cable alone.



BAM. Vertical control is fixed. BUT, what about the yoke legs? What about horizontal for bareshafts that miss sideways?
Step 1 would have been to not spam the OPs thread responding to someone else trying to ask their own question on top of his thread.
 

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When suffering through bare shaft tuning, when do you know to adjust rest and when do you adjust yokes?
If at 20 yards, your bareshaft is missing sideways by say an inch, sure, go ahead and yoke tune. Bareshaft is missing to the RIGHT of the fletched group, add 1/2 twist or 1 twist to the LEFT yoke leg. IF your bareshaft is missing 8-inches sideways, then, fix your form, fix your draw length...BEFORE yoke tuning.



Bow in SPEC, 29-inch draw length module, with yoke legs, draw length is at 29-inches. Arrow rest has the arrow pointing straight ahead. Cam lean has the point of the arrow maybe 1/16th to the right of the bowstring centerline. Fletched group, with bow in SPEC, at 20 yards.



So, a bow is TUNED or its not TUNED, right? In SPEC is not "TUNED". In SPEC, does not mean the bow fits YOU. So, with the bow in SPEC, lets fire a bareshaft, aiming the bareshaft at the x-ring, just like the fletched arrow.



Bareshaft missed 8-inches left. So, move the arrow rest, right? Nope, I didn't. So, bareshaft missing left is equivalent to a RIGHT paper tear, so I shortened the right yoke leg. Nope, I didn't. So, then what?





Shortened the cables, grew the brace height 1/16th inch longer than SPEC. OMG. The bow is out of SPEC. Yup. On purpose. Fired the bareshaft twice, and the bareshaft holes moved closer to the x-ring.



Shortened the cables, grew the brace height another 1/16th inch longer, so I am now 1/8th inch out of SPEC. Brace is now 1/8th longer than SPEC and draw length is now 1/8th longer than SPEC. BUT, it's no longer TUNED. It's out of SPEC. OUT of spec and "not tuned" have zero to do with each other. Look at the results.
 
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