Archery Talk Forum banner

1 - 20 of 27 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
11,814 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Tonight I decided to try and shoot some bare shafts through my bow just to see where they ended up. Well at 13yards they hit about 8" to the right and enter the target sideways with the point facing the right and nock facing the left but up and down they are right on. My bow is in spec and I dont have any fletching contact. I am thinking I need to move my rest which is a RipCord Code Red. I am shooting a PSE Axe 6 at 60lbs with a 28.5" draw and GoldTip 5575 arrows cut at 28" with 100grain tips. I have also had not great fixed blade broadhead flight. My fieldtips and grim reapers are shooting head on out to 50 yards but my slick tricks are not. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
11,427 Posts
Tonight I decided to try and shoot some bare shafts through my bow just to see where they ended up. Well at 13yards they hit about 8" to the right and enter the target sideways with the point facing the right and nock facing the left but up and down they are right on. My bow is in spec and I dont have any fletching contact. I am thinking I need to move my rest which is a RipCord Code Red. I am shooting a PSE Axe 6 at 60lbs with a 28.5" draw and GoldTip 5575 arrows cut at 28" with 100grain tips. I have also had not great fixed blade broadhead flight. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
I think your arrows are cut a tad short thereby making them too stiffly spined..i say this because i just went through bareshafting my omen w/ gt5575's that are cut 29.5 long and at 54#s had to move up from 100gr points too 125gr points to get them to tune..granted you're shooting a 60lb axe vs my 54lb omen but 1 1/2" shorter arrow length can have huge result difs..if i were you i'd try to crank a few more pounds on and go to heavier points and you may still find 28" long GT5575's too stiff but i'd try before i buy new arrows...here's what i got at 20 yds bareshafting my GT5575's 1st try..oh and..i also went with rayzr feathers vs vanes..took a lot of weight off the back and put it up front where it belongs..



 

·
Registered
Joined
·
612 Posts
I think your spine should be just fine. I would start moving the rest toward the right in very small increments and see if the bare shafts move closer to the fletched shafts.
If it doesn't improve or gets worse after moving it then go back to the original spot and then try moving to the left in very small increments. If the bare shafts get close to the fletched shafts but continue to have the nocks leaning to the left even after moving the rest in both directions then you probably have some horizontal nock travel from cam lean.

Bare shaft tuning can really test your patience sometimes but I feel it is worth every minute spent.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
400 Posts
knapper2's approach is correct. normally when the arrows hit to the right the nock will be to the left and when the arrows hit to the left the nock will be to the right. As you approach the right spot the arrows will tend to straighten out(less lean). To bare shaft tune the bow cannot have any cam timing or cam lean problems. Hand torque will also cause problems. Even if the bare shafts hit nearly the same impact point and you have hand torque the arrows will tend to lean. When I bareshaft tune I use weighted nocks. Do this by cutting a 8-32 2 inch machine screw into 3 pieces(remove the head of course) and each segment will weigh about 21 grains or about the same weight as the fletching. Screw them into the nock with a drop of super glue on the threads. This works well with Easton super nocks - not sure about others but you need the weight at the fletching end of the arrow. Some use tape.
View attachment 1158455
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
11,814 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
Ok I tried moving my rest to the right but that made them shoot even more to the right. So I maxed it out to the left and they are hitting like this....I am thinking I must have some cam lean. I dont have a press to do my own bow work and the shop I got the bow from charges $40 to paper tune your bow do you think its too expensive or would it be worth it?
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
47,473 Posts
Truth is, if you know how to read both paper and bareshafts they tell the same things. That right impact with broadheads and bareshafts translates to a left tear in paper when shot inside of 6' or so. I wouldn't think those arrows at those specs should be too stiff, though.

Have you layed an arrow along your cam(s) to see how much lean you're getting?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
436 Posts
Ok I tried moving my rest to the right but that made them shoot even more to the right. So I maxed it out to the left and they are hitting like this....I am thinking I must have some cam lean. I dont have a press to do my own bow work and the shop I got the bow from charges $40 to paper tune your bow do you think its too expensive or would it be worth it?
Ummm....Perty sure I would find a new shop. If I spent that kind of money on a bow and they tried to charge $40 for a paper tune, that would be the last thing I bought in there. The shop I use does it for free if you bought the stuff from them.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
11,814 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
Truth is, if you know how to read both paper and bareshafts they tell the same things. That right impact with broadheads and bareshafts translates to a left tear in paper when shot inside of 6' or so. I wouldn't think those arrows at those specs should be too stiff, though.

Have you layed an arrow along your cam(s) to see how much lean you're getting?
Would this be done at full draw?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
47,473 Posts
Do it at rest intially. But if you have a drawboard you can do it at full draw, too. I use a laser centershot tool in the drawboard for this....the only thing it's really any good for. :lol:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
612 Posts
I personally don't think the tape on the back of the arrow is necessary for adjusting the center shot. (from my experience)

LX- You said you moved the rest to the max left direction. Did you do this by VERY small increments to get there. These adjustments should be very small, about 1/64".
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
949 Posts
Do it at rest intially. But if you have a drawboard you can do it at full draw, too. I use a laser centershot tool in the drawboard for this....the only thing it's really any good for. :lol:
I think they are great for shining at airliners also.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
836 Posts
Find a friend that has a press or another bow shop you can go to. Press your bow and add a twist to the left yoke. Shoot bare shaft again and repeat until bare shaft is straight out of the target then adjust rest to correct for impact differences. If bare shafts kick to the right add twists to the right yoke or subtract from the left yoke. After bare shafts are straight and impacting with fletched arrows then your broad heads should be shooting with field points. Works every time for me.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,336 Posts
Find a friend that has a press or another bow shop you can go to. Press your bow and add a twist to the left yoke. Shoot bare shaft again and repeat until bare shaft is straight out of the target then adjust rest to correct for impact differences. If bare shafts kick to the right add twists to the right yoke or subtract from the left yoke. After bare shafts are straight and impacting with fletched arrows then your broad heads should be shooting with field points. Works every time for me.
I would add to start this process by moving your arrow rest back to the normal 13/16" from the center of the arrow to the shelf.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,323 Posts
Tonight I decided to try and shoot some bare shafts through my bow just to see where they ended up. Well at 13yards they hit about 8" to the right and enter the target sideways with the point facing the right and nock facing the left but up and down they are right on. My bow is in spec and I dont have any fletching contact. I am thinking I need to move my rest which is a RipCord Code Red. I am shooting a PSE Axe 6 at 60lbs with a 28.5" draw and GoldTip 5575 arrows cut at 28" with 100grain tips. I have also had not great fixed blade broadhead flight. My fieldtips and grim reapers are shooting head on out to 50 yards but my slick tricks are not. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
That's a left tear through paper, indicative of a "Stiff Spine". Increase poundage, lengthen arrow, or add point weight. or combination...also, try rotating the nock slightly.
Get it ito shoot a bullet-hole through paper. Then with the target at shoulder height execute really good form fire the bare shaft. You'll move the rest the opposite direction of whatever it's doing. The 55/75 should not be so stiff that it won't allow for a bare shaft tune.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,232 Posts
I don't know how good your form is and I don't want to make assumptions or offend you, but for me, form has to be REALLY good for bare shaft tuning. I find that BH tuning can give me comparable results, but the fletching on the end takes out a bit of "user error" if you know wat I mean. I sometimes get "false results " from bare shaft tuning, thinking it's the bow when it's really a form issue.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
11,814 Posts
Discussion Starter #19
I personally don't think the tape on the back of the arrow is necessary for adjusting the center shot. (from my experience)

LX- You said you moved the rest to the max left direction. Did you do this by VERY small increments to get there. These adjustments should be very small, about 1/64".
From when the rest was put on at the shop it is 1 little notch mark from maxing out to the left so I could only move it that much.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,802 Posts
I personally don't think the tape on the back of the arrow is necessary for adjusting the center shot. (from my experience)

The tape on back of arrow is not there to find centershot.i use it to determind correct spine.without equal weight of tape on back of the arrow, the bow could be set as if the arrow is too weak. the tape or fletch on back adds weight to arrow,making it stiffer than an arrow without.
 
1 - 20 of 27 Posts
Top