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I was looking through the Easton Tuning Guide and noticed that it only recommends bare shaft tuning for finger shooters. I have heard others mention tuning with that method with their releases as well.

Is there merit to bare shaft tuning with a mechanical release? If so, what does that type of tuning reveal about a bow's setup?

Thanks!

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Indychris
 

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What good would it do for finger shooters?:confused: If you get your field tips and BH's shooting good, then what is the advantage? Finger shooters allmost all have rest contact with the fletch to some degree. So, is shooting the bare shaft with fingers to show spine problems associated with a finger release, so you get it right before you fletch? I have shot fingers forever and I would like to know the reason for this.???
 

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you don;t really have to bare shaft either way is my opinion as it is not a sure fire way to get your rest or anythign set up to me. when i shoot and am setting up my bow for hunting i take care of my centershot and tiller tune and go from there and never bare shaft1 and i do fine. i also shoot a release and am not sure why a finger shooter woudl even want to bareshaft tune
rob k
 

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why?

bare shaft tuning to me sounds like jeff gordon tuning his car on the bare rims and then adding the tires to see how it will do???:p
(of course this year it probably wouldn't hurt!!)
 

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I think bare shaft tuning is more to find the proper arrow spine.

yes you also set your rest when bareshafting (rufly) but I think it is more for finger shooters who have adjustable limb bolts.

It helps to fine tune the poundage of the bow to the arrow spine.

some people swear by it for compound as well. I know one top shooter who will not shoot his bow unless a bareshaft groups with his fletched arrows at at least 40 yards.


good shooting
 

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My friend tried bare shaft tuning his new Navigators :eek: and now has a snazzy new expensive Navigator pen for his quiver :p
 

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Bareshaft

I have Bareshaft tunned to 80 yards and it works for me shooting fingers. My buddy bareshaft tunned his equipment and he shoots a release. He did very well. I do not believe in paper tunning other than getting the nock height, which i like to see in a release shooter at 11 o'clock. What works for my buddies is a vertical and horizontal line to set their nock and arrow rest. Then they shoot different point weights to get best groups. Then they check their stuff again with the lines. But what works for them may not work for you.
 

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Try It

I started bare shaft tuning a couple years ago and I will do nothing but from here forward. I shoot a few shots through paper to get it close, then I head to 15 yards with bare shafts. It lets you know EXACTLY how your arrow is coming out of the bow without the help of your vanes or feathers correcting it. Some of it is about arrow spine, but most of it is about flight and tuning. I have my bow shooting bare shafts with fletched arrows at 40 yards, dead on, like darts. Why not adjust your bow so the arrow is coming out as straight as possible?

I can screw on any broadhead and it will fly like a dart, and impact within an inch or two of my field points (well, any broadhead I've tried anyway; Muzzy 3 and 4 blade, Thunderheads, Rockets, Wasp fixed blade). Thats more than I can say for past years. Even in the past excellent flying broadheads like the Thunderhead sometimes required 6-12" of adjustment for point of impact on my non-tuned bows in any given direction (sometimes high left, sometimes low right. I thought the bow was tuned, bullet hole through paper, little did I know...).

I think bare shaft tuning is well worth the effort. The arrow is going as straight as possible, and as such, is going to drive that arrow forward with the most energy. I shot a Thunderhead into a tree this year (not on purpose) and buried the entire broadhead in the tree, but the Beman ICS 400 shaft was not damaged or cracked. That arrow was going STRAIGHT!

A word of warning. Bare shaft tuning is very sensitive to grip and handle torque...

Bo
 

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I like to bare shaft tune in paper to start... it will tell you a lot about your setup.... I've seen several bows shoot bullet holes with fletched arrow and long tears with bare shafts.
When I get my bow "right" it will shoot paper with both and POI together out to 40 yrds. never tried it past there...
I shoot Mangus Stingers and they POI out to 70 yards with my field points. I ain't asking for more than that.....
 

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BARE SHAFT TUNING

Hollowpoint

The bow is alot more adjustable than the arrow. If I can get my bare shaft hitting the same place as my fletched shaft, all I have to do is screw on my broadheads and go hunting. Same sight settings etc. Also, I always carry a bare shaft in my quiver and shoot it at random during practice. Talk about confidence in your equipment. Let me know if I can help.
 

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bare shaft

I also should mention that I don't recommend this method to novice shooters or even shooters with a moderate skill level. Just a slight inconsistency in form and your chasing that bare shaft all over.
 

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I had always bareshaft tuned my recurve but had never done it for my compound until this week. I was tuning for my new McKinney's and had a very good paper tune but it still seemed like the groups weren't right. I decided to bareshaft tune and immediately got an amazing difference in my groups at long distance. Before and after bareshaft tuning the fletched arrows were and are shooting perfect bullet holes through paper. But just for kicks I shot my bareshaft through paper before and after and it went from a 2" tear to a perfect bullet hole.

Will
 

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I think bare shaft helps if you've got the arrow spine at or close to reccomended levels. If you shoot shafts that are to stiff, like me, it will only make you crazy.
 

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Thanks guys. I recently went from 2514's to 2512's. The 14's were going to the left the farther out they got. The 12's fly like darts out to 50.:D Its nice not to have to hold 1" to the right on spots anymore. I shot 1 of each bare shaft with my groups this morning. The bare 14 was to the left about 4" at 20yds! The bare 12 was right in there.:) The bare 12 was just about an inch out consistantly at 40yds. Good enough for me. Any less spine in aluminum and they go to the right and fishtail on me. I have a 30" draw at 72#'s, so I need a stiff arrow. I was surprised by haw far off the bare 14's were though:eek: Shoot Strait
 
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