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Discussion Starter #1
Alright first off my setup:

Mathews TX-5, if your not familiar with this bow, it's basically a Triax on Crack. 28" ATA, 5" brace, the IBO is based on a 29" draw at 345, but it was a few FPS faster than my PSE expedite (IBO 352 with 90% mods) with same specs/ arrows so I usually put 355 into the calculators.

60# limbs maxed out to 61.6#
27" mods, actual draw is probably closer to 27.25"

Shooting Easton Axis with the full camo wrap and blazers 11.4 gr/in

300 spine
28" long
100 gr. Ethics Archery Inserts
125gr. Field point
total arrow weight 575
16%+ FOC
calculated at about 250 fps.

at 20 yards, bareshafts are impacting maybe an inch high, slight nock low position, many times when shooting yesterday the bareshaft landed inside of a group of 2-3 arrows at 20.

at 30 yards, bareshafts are impacting about 5" high with a nock low position.

My rest is about bottomed out in it's adjustment (straight through berger hole), nock is about 1/16" high. I did try moving the rest up and it exaggerated the bareshaft misses, so the bow is responding appropriately.

This bow/ setup is going to be a hunting rig mostly shot at ranges 20-25 yards, never over 30 on a critter. I do practice out to 50 or 60 just for giggles.

Would you start twisting cables/ moving the nock point around? or would you leave well enough alone?
 

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Before I messed with anything I would throw some broadheads on and go shoot them . If they hit then I would worry to much about it but if they don’t or your not satisfied then I would move the nick point up some
 

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My Elk Hunting Home
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I definitely wouldn't "call it good" with a BS hitting 5" higher than fletched at 30. Not familiar with that bow, but I'd make sure the cams are timed right to start with. Otherwise you'll be chasing your tail through the rest of the tuning process.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Before I messed with anything I would throw some broadheads on and go shoot them . If they hit then I would worry to much about it but if they don’t or your not satisfied then I would move the nick point up some
Great Question!!!

broadhead and field points are touching at 20.

They are 3-4" apart at 40, about the spread of my all field point groups.

I would hunt this thing tomorrow if anything was in season, I just wonder if I can get that last 1% out of it...
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I definitely wouldn't "call it good" with a BS hitting 5" higher than fletched at 30. Not familiar with that bow, but I'd make sure the cams are timed right to start with. Otherwise you'll be chasing your tail through the rest of the tuning process.
Cams are about as perfect as I can tell on my draw board. Thats really why I'm asking, I don't want to advance one and mess up what is already a good thing
 

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A.....

My rest is about bottomed out in it's adjustment (straight through berger hole), nock is about 1/16" high. I did try moving the rest up and it exaggerated the bareshaft misses, so the bow is responding appropriately

.....

Would you start twisting cables/ moving the nock point around? or would you leave well enough alone?
Bareshaft high (ie nock low) is the least desirable condition. If I were you, I'd lower the rest slightly to correct the BS high condition. If you're out of adjustment on the rest, I'd raise the nocking point (and the peep) slightly so the BS is hitting with, or slightly below the fletched and not nock low in the target
 

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Bare shaft tuning is finicky at best. You have proven this yourself. You said your bare shaft is 5" high at 30 yards, but your broad heads and field points touch at 20 yards. Why is this? It's because bare shaft tuning is not the "end all be all" that some think it is. If you did not "nock tune" your arrows, you have done nothing. Don't believe me, try turning your nock a quarter turn on that bare shaft and see if the POI changes. My Vertix is behaving the very same way your TX5 is. I lowered the rest to where the arrow is running through the bottom of the Berger hole and I am getting good flight, with still having enough clearance. I think I am staying there. The point is use a few different tuning methods. Bare shaft tuning is finicky at best, unless you are willing to un-fletch all your arrows, nock tune them, bare shaft tune, then re-fletch. I am not willing to do that to shoot a whitetail at 25 yards.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Thanks all!

Discipline12$

yes it is, my prior setup with this bow for the TAC was 70# limbs flinging 380 grain arrows at 310+ I like to mess with stuff, and the extremes are usually where I go. that On Target program has really allowed me to make some good arrow choices and get setups that tune well without much experimentation. So far at about 200 arrows in, this heavy setup at 60# is way more forgiving than that light speedy one at 70# =]

nestly,

I was able to get the rest down a hair more by messing with the arrow holder on the shelf. Now it's flying perfectly and my bareshafts are hitting inside my fletched at 30. More than good enough for me. I think trying to bareshaft out to 40 with this little speed bow with basically no stabilization would probably be asking for a lost arrow!

The Old Guy,

You are right it is finicky, hand position shot to shot is also a big issue the Bareshaft doesn't lie and it shows grip issues very quickly! I try to replicate something 5 times before making an adjustment, it helps weed out the anomolies which alot can happen when bareshafting. I find that bareshaft tuning is about the best way for ME to clean up arrow flight. I have tried walkback/ French tuning out to 60 and usually end up with odd results, I make a correction and it doesn't do what I think it should, I go back the other way, and end up with the best results back where I started. I think with my next bow (probably a Traverse or TRX 7) I will nock tune when I start setting up arrows.
 

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A heavier arrow stays on the string longer, thus magnifies flaws in form, grip, etc.....
With that being said there are a few different reasons you could be shooting better with a heavier arrow.
I would want to be around 425-450 with your set up.
 

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Since your nocking point is already high and you cant move your rest down. Add a half twist to the bottom cable to advance the bottom cam. Then you probably would have to move the rest up a touch and have your arrow at 90 degrees to the string. Simple fix
 

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Good points presented. IMO, most important to good BS tuning is consistent form...if you can't hold the exact same pressure on a grip every time, you will be chasing your tail. ( pun intended) Also nock tuning...shoot 3 different shafts and then tune the nocks so that they hit together. No sense in tuning to one specific arrow if the nock on it is not square. Nocks cause a lot more headaches than guys really realize...switching nocks can make an errant shaft come right into the group.
 
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