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Ive heard of guys bareshaft tunning Trad bows but has anyone bareshaft tuned a compound bow and if so whats the difference between bareshaft tunning , paper tunning , french tunning and walk back tunning ?
 

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Walk back tuning

Ive heard of guys bareshaft tunning Trad bows but has anyone bareshaft tuned a compound bow and if so whats the difference between bareshaft tunning , paper tunning , french tunning and walk back tunning ?
Walk back tuning,
is to try and shoot your fletched arrows
at multiple distances
and see what happens,
when you use the same top pin on your sight.

Let's say you have a 20 yard top pin.

Ok.

Use your 20 yard top pin
and fire an arrow at 20 yards.

Arrow hits the target somewhere.


Step back to 40 yards,
and fire at the same target,
using the same 20 yard top pin.

Arrow should hit the same target
and the arrow should hit lower than arrow #1.


Step back to 60 yards
and fire at the same target
and use the same 20 yard top pin.

Arrow should hit the same target
and the arrow should hit lower than arrow #2.


Now,
if arrow impact #1
and arrow impact #2
and arrow impact #3
all form a vertical line,
then try moving the top pin left or right,
to fix a windage problem.



If arrow #1 misses the bullseye by 1-inch left
and arrow #2 misses the bullseye by 3-inches left
and arrow #3 misses the bullseye by 5-inches left

(NOTE: these distances are just for discussion purposes)
(the idea is that as the shooting distance increases,
the arrows miss further and further left).


You have a centershot problem (arrow rest is not in correct position).
 

· (aka lug nut)
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Classic French Tuning

There is a concept called cross over point.

What this means is that the same pin (say the 60 yd pin)
will work at TWO distances.

YUP.


The 60 yd pin should also work
at 3 yards or 3.5 yards or maybe 4 yards.

It's gonna vary a little for each person.


John Dudley goes into great detail about this method.
http://www.dudleyarchery.info/articles/usarcher1FT.pdf


So,
here's the short version of what is French Tuning.


Let's say that your close up distance
that works for your 60 yd pin is say 4 yards.


So,
setup a target bag and put a small sticker,
say 1/4-inch in diameter. YUP. The goal is to hit a sticker
about the same size as your arrow outside diameter.


Do whatever you need to do to your bow
so you hit that 1/4-inch diameter circle
from a distance of 4 yards (whatever is your magic short distance that works for your 60 yd pin).


a) move your pin windage only (left to right adjustment) at this short distance




Ok.

Now go and shoot groups at 60 yards
with your 60 yard pin.


Tweak your arrow rest slightly up or down to tighten groups at 60 yards.
Tweak your arrow rest left or right, to tighten up groups at 60 yds.

Adjust the draw weight to tighten up groups at 60 yards.

At this long distance, only adjust the arrow rest.


Then,
go back to your "magic" short yardage distance
that matches your 60 yd pin,
and only adjust your sight windage as needed,
to get the "magic short yardage" shot to nail that 1/4-inch diameter circle


a) ONLY move your pin windage (left to right adjustment) at the short distance.


Back and forth and back and forth.


That's french tuning.
 

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Always----if you can't shoot a bare shaft-- things aren't quite correct yet.

Frankly some compound bows, have so much string paradox from the cable guard that it is almost impossible to bare shaft tune,----those get a paper tune by hitting a median point in the stress ossilation,------then hope-hope-hope---the fletch takes over right away.

Bottom line is you may need to do some work on/with your compound to get it to work as well as a recurve,---sad as it may seem.
 
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