Does anybody know how to tune and time a single cam bear game over ? (2009)
johnmets
bear game over
i just installed vapor trails, whisker biscuit, truglo sight, and the standard vibration reduction equipment. chronoed today at 282fps with a 380 grain arrow, bow set at 28in draw and 70lbs.
the arrow is a beman ics bowhunter 340 cut to 26 1/4 with a 85 grain tip.
hope this helps
i just installed vapor trails, whisker biscuit, truglo sight, and the standard vibration reduction equipment. chronoed today at 282fps with a 380 grain arrow, bow set at 28in draw and 70lbs.
the arrow is a beman ics bowhunter 340 cut to 26 1/4 with a 85 grain tip.
hope this helps
Mount your rest per manufacture’s directions and select shafts per your completed arrow length, draw weight and point weight.
After you have adjusted the draw length to your body by exchanging modules and/or adjusting the string length with the spool setting in the cam, then check for even tiller (distance from limb pocket to a string drawn between the axles), then verify factory spec axle-to-axle length to a sixteenth of an inch (the measurement should be even on both sides of the bow), then verify brace height.
Bear Archery suggests your limbs will perform most quietly and efficiently when they are maxed out to the specified draw weight on your limb data tag.
With an arrow eye-balled square on the string, I install a long rod in the front stabilizer hole and then sight along the arrow shaft and adjust the rest in or out to align the two to set “center shot” as a starting point. (Laser, I don’t need no stinking laser.)
Then, set nocking point 1/16 to 1/8 inch high from perpendicular as a starting point. I use a nock set below the arrow’s nock with d-loop string knot below the nock set and above the arrow’s nock.
Now I start bare shaft plane shooting (no vanes or feathers) to verify the arrows are striking the target face squarely (vertical target face on same plane as arrow when shot…observe angle of arrow sticking from target…when you have everything right, the arrows will be all sticking straight out back at you.
Start at 10 yards. Then move back in 10 yard increments to verify settings. You will be surprised how well you can shoot without fletching. Then when you do add fletching, the groups should shrink, particularly at 30 plus ranges.
Let me know how it goes.
K
PS '07 Truth
After you have adjusted the draw length to your body by exchanging modules and/or adjusting the string length with the spool setting in the cam, then check for even tiller (distance from limb pocket to a string drawn between the axles), then verify factory spec axle-to-axle length to a sixteenth of an inch (the measurement should be even on both sides of the bow), then verify brace height.
Bear Archery suggests your limbs will perform most quietly and efficiently when they are maxed out to the specified draw weight on your limb data tag.
With an arrow eye-balled square on the string, I install a long rod in the front stabilizer hole and then sight along the arrow shaft and adjust the rest in or out to align the two to set “center shot” as a starting point. (Laser, I don’t need no stinking laser.)
Then, set nocking point 1/16 to 1/8 inch high from perpendicular as a starting point. I use a nock set below the arrow’s nock with d-loop string knot below the nock set and above the arrow’s nock.
Now I start bare shaft plane shooting (no vanes or feathers) to verify the arrows are striking the target face squarely (vertical target face on same plane as arrow when shot…observe angle of arrow sticking from target…when you have everything right, the arrows will be all sticking straight out back at you.
Start at 10 yards. Then move back in 10 yard increments to verify settings. You will be surprised how well you can shoot without fletching. Then when you do add fletching, the groups should shrink, particularly at 30 plus ranges.
Let me know how it goes.
K
PS '07 Truth
you talking all for cam timing??? as with no marks you have to measure DL at full draw and use that,
There are some advantages to the “solo-cam” arraignment which your Game Over incorporates:
A: The issue of cam timing becomes non-existent as both “cams” are one assembly, bolted together.
B: Cable/string stretch related problems are greatly reduced. The primary issue then becomes a change in draw length and anchoring point (and a slight increase in draw weight will also show up) when the string/buss cable actually does stretch. This will also change the nocking point relative to square (tuning) and can produce porpoising in the arrow’s flight.
Your focus should be on adjusting the draw length to your body/anchor point.
Then verify A-to-A length and brace height/fistmele.
It is a good idea to document all of your bow’s settings as you play with it so you can return to where you were, should an adjustment produce negative results. This will reduce confusion later on when the time comes to change the string and buss cable and you won’t be second guessing yourself.
A: The issue of cam timing becomes non-existent as both “cams” are one assembly, bolted together.
B: Cable/string stretch related problems are greatly reduced. The primary issue then becomes a change in draw length and anchoring point (and a slight increase in draw weight will also show up) when the string/buss cable actually does stretch. This will also change the nocking point relative to square (tuning) and can produce porpoising in the arrow’s flight.
Your focus should be on adjusting the draw length to your body/anchor point.
Then verify A-to-A length and brace height/fistmele.
It is a good idea to document all of your bow’s settings as you play with it so you can return to where you were, should an adjustment produce negative results. This will reduce confusion later on when the time comes to change the string and buss cable and you won’t be second guessing yourself.
Those are secondary checks IMO. if the draw length is good and the draw weight is good chances are the ATA and brace will be there also.
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