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Discussion Starter #1
Is it OK to set the draw stops 1/2 inch longer then the draw length. I have the draw length set at 28" and the draw stops set at 28 and 1/2" .It feel better it gives me a little more room before it takes off. When it is set the same I have very little play .If I move 1/4 of a inch or less it takes off on me.
 

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Im no expert but I believe that is a big no-no. I believe it also states not to do that in the manual!
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks I just talked to Bear tech support and the said it's OK to do it. It gives you a better valley.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I like it a lot more then with it set the same.I set the cam timing myself it was off two turns on the bottom cam. I love my bowmaster press..Like I said Bear said it was OK to do it so were good to go.
 

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I did this to my Motive 6 and WOW, it does make a huge difference in the valley. It also felt like I was holding less weight as well. Give it a try if you are having trouble grouping arrows or not as comfortable as you would like to be with it. So glad i did it.
 

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Might have to give that a try because the short valley on the anarchy catches me off guard at times.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I'm not sure on the draw length . Bear said not to change the draw length because that would not help the short valley.And that would change your draw length.It would seam like it would make the draw length longer but I'm not sure.I just know it shoots a lot nicer this way.Before this if I let up a little it would take off on me , and that hurts for sure.That would really hurt , if it happened when drawing on a deer.
 

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It's deffinetly going to make it a touch longer longer. I always +/- a twist here and there to fine tune my DL on any bow. Never do I go by what the manufacture says the DL is.
 

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It did make the dl a touch longer but not a complete 1/2 inch i don't think. Maybe a 1/4 inch. Honestly, since the draw is so much nicer now I don't realize the difference is dl.
 

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I'm no expert (thus can be wrong, so take this as my personal opinion): but here is my ideas ....

... draw length must be longer. D-stop is the thing which (or its position) determines where pulling back stops. It hits cable - simply you can't continue - wall. If you move stops, they hit cable later. It means, you can pull farther = longer draw length. Probably, it isn't full 1/2" exactly, because shape of cams is not designed for this purpose (overturn). Valley should be (and it is) longer/wider. Only thing I'd worry about is timing - cams and draw stops (theis holes/position) are carefully designed by manufacturer to stop draw cycle at proper and exact position .. when stop hits cable, the cam should be in ideal position. If it's not, bow is out of timing. If you move stop farther, it could mean cam did not stop and it could "overturn" little bit and it stops in inappropriate position - loosing efficiency ?

TW
 

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I'm no expert (thus can be wrong, so take this as my personal opinion): but here is my ideas ....

... draw length must be longer. D-stop is the thing which (or its position) determines where pulling back stops. It hits cable - simply you can't continue - wall. If you move stops, they hit cable later. It means, you can pull farther = longer draw length. Probably, it isn't full 1/2" exactly, because shape of cams is not designed for this purpose (overturn). Valley should be (and it is) longer/wider. Only thing I'd worry about is timing - cams and draw stops (theis holes/position) are carefully designed by manufacturer to stop draw cycle at proper and exact position .. when stop hits cable, the cam should be in ideal position. If it's not, bow is out of timing. If you move stop farther, it could mean cam did not stop and it could "overturn" little bit and it stops in inappropriate position - loosing efficiency ?

TW
That's a good question. I still haven't had chance to try moving the stops but it make sense what your saying about the timing...
 

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Discussion Starter #16
That may be true . Are there any Bear techs here to help us on this?. I know my Motive 6 shoots great groups out to 60 yards and the valley feels much nicer.
 

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I could definitely see where that would be true but I had my fiancé check when my stops hit as I came to full draw and they both touch the cables at the same time so I think mine is ok. All I know is that ive never shot better. Ive never been much of a long range practicer but im getting good groups out to 60 and even 70 yards. My groups at 30 and 40 are better than they have ever been.
 

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Okay, I finally had a chance to try moving the draw stops. I was at 28 and I moved them to 28.5. And what a difference! I didn't realize the valley was so pronounce at the end of the draw cycle. I was shooting at 65# but upped it to max because it seemed so much easier to hold. before moving the stops it seemed the string was always on the edge of firing. weird thing is, i don't even notice the extra draw length.
It's the first time I shot the bow at the max weight. Wickedly fast. I Haven't tried beyond 25yrds yet... This is gonna be awesome!
 

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Discussion Starter #19
I shot a 3" group with it at 50 yards today, in a 20mph head wind. I have never shot so well.Moving the stops is a must for me . I'm set at 63 # I may take it back up to 70# again .It's shooting 320 fps now so it can only get faster if I turn it up.
 

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I've been shooting 60# for the past couple years and I wanted a 70 # bow for north Ontario moose this year. I guess it's time I start getting used to the max weight. I just can't believe how fast the motive 6 seems to shoot maxed out. But then again I'm comparing it to my old bear charge... The stops change were just the ticket I needed! Anxious to get on that range and sight her in beyond 25!
Jimmitch, I believe your dl is the same as mine at 28". What arrow set up are you using? I have 340 easton axis @ 28" with 125 gr heads. I'm just comparing notes .... At 65# I was getting better groups with 400 spine.... But at 70# initial test appears 340s group better.
 
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