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Bear Take Down Recurve......Thoughts and Recommendations...?

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11K views 14 replies 12 participants last post by  bowhuntercoop  
#1 ·
Hello All,

I am looking to get into traditional archery. I have taken 2 deer with a Bear First Strike compound many years ago. 5 deer with a crossbow in recent years. Now looking into traditional. I am mainly interested in Bear Recurves as I have always been a Fred Bear fan.

Looking hard at the Bear Take Down. Based on advise from Many Archers, I would like to purchase one with #45 limbs. I see they make different risers. Recommendations on which combo would be best would be greatly appreciated. I am a bigger large frame guy. My draw is a tad over 29”. I hunt from a tall barronette ground blind mostly, so thinking shortest that would fit me well. I know it’s a pricey bow and it’s not like $$ is no object, but I don’t mind paying more for the best or for something that will last me longer.

Short riser, long limbs, long riser, short limbs. Lots of combos with this one.

My thinking is to get the #45. Should I wanna upgrade down the road, I could get a heavier weight limbs.

So from previous owners and experiences traditional archers, what would you recommend as my first recurve.

I have looked at other Bear Recurves, so other models are not out of the question either.

Many Thanks in advance.
 
#2 ·
I'm not the authority some are, but here's my experience. I have a draw just over 29". I have a recent production ('17 or '18) Bear Takedown. Mine is the A riser (short one) with #3 limbs (long ones) for a 60" AMO bow. Keep in mind that Bear TD limbs are usually marked as drawing 2# heavier on the A riser. I've got limbs marked as 42# for the A riser. They're probably not exactly 42#, as they measure 43.5# at my exact DL.

At any rate, I friggin love this bow. I like the short riser, because it feels more nimble, despite the fact that the TD riser is pretty heavy as takedown risers go in the archery world. I like the long limbs, because they draw very smoothly. The combination makes a relatively nimble but stable and smooth shooting bow. I like it well enough that I bought 32# limbs, too.

There are some drawbacks. The biggest one is the the shelf is cut to center, not past. So tuning can be a little more of a challenge. The latch system is pretty cool but can be prone to small clicks and pops on some bows. Mine has not had that issue, but some do. Different production eras produced different grip profiles, so you might have to try a few to see what you like.

Ultimately, it's only one of several great bows. Try several. The Bear TD was a bucket list bow for me I've wanted since I was a kid. Not everyone gets along with them, but I've been super happy with mine.

Sent from my SM-G930P using Tapatalk
 
#4 ·
Different production eras produced different grip profiles, so you might have to try a few to see what you like.
This is VERY important. It is also not different eras. It is different day of the week made and who did the final shaping. Try a bunch if at all possible. I found an A that fit me like a glove. It was Black Maple. I wanted a matching B too. I tried a 1/2 dozen different B's of the exact same era and wood combo only to find one that was close but not quite as good. Two years later I find a Bubinga that is perfect. Not the matching bow I wanted but it sure feels good.

I have a half dozen or so, and have had many more. In the end it is a production bow, not a custom. Some people ding it for that. On the flip side is a very nice bow that is very versatile. After shooting stickbows for 30+ years I have quit searching for "the bow" and stuck with the Fred Bear Take Down as my bow.
 
#5 ·
Ditto on the grips. I had a 2017 A riser that just didn't feel right. $520.00 new. Absolutely beautiful riser. Then I dinged it on a 3D course. Son of a...................! Then I found a 1974 black Magnesium B riser. Bingo. It's old and dinged up, but it fits like a glove.
The Bear limbs pull so smooth and boy are they fast. 47# limbs on an A riser with your draw length, it'll shoot through schools.
 
#6 ·
There will probably be as many opinions as there are posters but here's mine.


If this is going to be your first bow in the "traditional" archery game, the Bear takedown is not the one I would choose. Not because they aren't nice, they are, but you don't even know what you like or dislike yet and the chance the Bear TD is going to be "the one" is slim to none.

If I were you, I would buy something much less expensive (there are lots of options out there), preferably with two sets of limbs, one in about 35# and one in 45# is that's where you want to end up. Learn how to shoot it well, figure out what you are really looking for, then go from there.

For an example the Galaxy Ember shown here:


Can be purchased right now new, with both sets of limbs, under full warranty for about 1/4 of the cost of a Bear takedown.

https://www.lancasterarchery.com/galaxy-ember-60-takedown-recurve-bow-limited-options.html

https://www.lancasterarchery.com/galaxy-ember-recurve-limbs.html


Just my humble opinion.



KPC
 
#7 ·
I agree with not buying an expensive bow to "get into" traditional archery.

Some people shoot much better with a longer bow than a shorter one. Some people do well with short bows.
Your draw length will likely change as your form improves.
You ARE better off establishing good form with a lighter bow.
You will know more about what suits you in a grip with some more shooting time.

You wont know what you like and whats best for you until you some experience. Buy an affordable 25-35lb bow.

Unless you are wealthish and can comfortably toss away $800+ on test, you should probably wait to spend that much until its clear to you why that the purchase is the right one.
 
#8 ·
I totally enjoy shooting my 2015 Babinga/Hardrock Maple B riser "1 limb 60AMO Bear Takedown. It had a limb pop problem that ws easily corrected with bowstring wax. When I pick up a bow, any bow I know immediately if the grip and I will get along. Ive been shooting traditional equipment for over 50 years and during that if nothing else I know immediately if I would consider shooting that bow. My takedown grip is perfect for me. Other Bear takeddown risers grips are not. $875 is a major investment so make sure the riser grip is exactly what you want. I would opt for the longer B riser and longer limbs for shooting target and 3D and a set of #1 limbs for hunting. I have clocked over 50,000 trouble free arrows through my Bear takedown. True the cut to center makes it a bit fickle to tune. I am not satisfied with the the parallel POC tune out of this bow. While tapered POC shafts tune is great. The bow shoots X7 2114 pretty good while a 600 spine carbon shoot great. My AMO draw length is 28.75". I purchased my 45# bow and later a set of 50# limbs from Big Jim. I cannot say enough good things about those experiences.
 
#9 ·
My thinking for the takedown was that once I excelled in shooting 45lb, I could always up the poundage with the same grip platform I was already proficient in. I have limited archery shops near me and none that are have much traditional in stock. I would have to drive several hundred miles away for that.

My main question was what riser as they have different height sight windows. Also what limbs. It’s basically short riser and long limbs or long riser and short limbs. 60” would be about my max as hunting in ground blind. Not opposed to a good used one, but would prefer new.

Wish there was a Huge store with lots of bows to see what fit in hand the best. ��
 
#11 ·
Nyfemaker,
There's probably a dozen of us, who have all done time in the Traditional Archery Wing of the Betty Ford Clinic, chompin' at the bit to tell you to buy a cheap, 30-35#takedown. There is sooooo much you will need to learn about runnin' a recurve. But, it sounds like you're hell bent for leather for a Bear Takedown. Godspeed to you.
 
#12 ·
A takedown isn’t a must. I was just looking at a bow I could grow into. Learn with that riser and upgrade if needed down the road. I was originally looking for a Grizzly when the search started. None of this has nothing to do with price. Several have recommended the a Kodiak. My only requirement is that it’s a Bear bow. Not interested in other brands. No matter what model, there will be pros and cons by the experts. Just trying to weed out what would work best for me and wanted to hear what experienced users had to say.
 
#13 ·
If it must be a Bear then your path is predetermined. I can understand a strong interest in Bear I've been a Bear fanatic since I started bowhunting in the 60s (when I couldn't afford a Bear bow and began with a Shakespeare). I've owned Bear takedowns since 1984 and, literally, a hundred or more Bear bows since. Since your draw is 29" I'd suggest an A riser with number 3 limbs.

But if there's one thing I've learned over my bowhunting career, it is to keep an open mind to other options. Bears are great bows but there are so many better options out there to get started with a recurve. I understand what you said about it has to be Bear, but you're not doing yourself any favors just to own that bow at this point in your bowhunting life. A Samick Discovery 17" or a Galaxy Sear 17' riser couple with Black Max 2.0 medium limbs will give you a 60" bow that will out perform the Bear any day, will give you more options going forward, will cost you half or less than a Bear and, perhaps most importantly, will give you the experience to see if ultimately the Bear is right for you.
 
#14 ·
I’ve shot a lot of trad bows and currently shoot a bear ausable ,there is a reason why peaple compare bows to the bear bows they are the most consistent production bows in my opinion. If you want a bear ? Get one . If it’s the only bow you shoot . It will always be the best …?