I remember a few of your posts, where you were looking for a good recurve. I'm glad you found one.

I think you're going to like that bow, a lot.

That model is from the mid-late 60's. It's a fine bow.

Check the limbs for any twisting, etc, then get her strung up and try it out.

I'm not the expert on these things, but I'd start with a string that will give you a brace height of around 8" or so. Add or subtract a few twists as needed to find where it shoots and feels best. Be sure to use the "old-fashioned" Dacron string, not a Fast Flight string (the tips aren't designed to handle the increased stress of the newer materials).

Have fun, you're going to enjoy it!

 

Any idea where to go for that older type string? Thanks for the pointers!

 

You can look at 3 river, Lancaster, 60x ,and scheels for a string. Not sure on arrows but maybe 500 or 600?

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

 

I have a Ben Pearson Hunter.

The 709 is the earlier model, the 7090 was the later one. Awesome bows.

They were a higher end Pearson bow of the time, and yes, they were manufactured around 1967, 68. Re-enforced limb tips, but as stated, no fastflight string, B50 only.

That looks like a nice example, enjoy!

 

Definitely a good bow. Yes, check limbs and tips carefully. Use a B50 or B55 string of 54 inch length(it will stretch some at first, then settle). Brace can run anywhere from 7.5 to 9 inches. The BEST way to get very close right off the bat is to have a hand held draw scale setup and check at each brace height what the poundage is at 28 inches. Your draw length with recurve is USUALLY about an inch shorter. Full length 600 spine is correct. 500 is too stiff. Try 75 and 100 grain inserts with 125 grain field points. I can almost bet the farm that 100 gr inserts, and 125s will fly great. I used to shoot off the shelf, but now use a modified NAP Flipper 2 rest. PM me and I will give you my phone and I can text you pics of the mod. Despite the current trend, I strongly recommend cat whiskers. Tied on string nocks, when done correctly are vastly superior to brass nocks. I will also text you pics on a silencing method to prevent string slap.

 

Also next step is which arrows for this?

That bow cries out for traditional wooden shafts, with feathers.

Since they can be harder to find, and sometimes finicky, it will understand if you need to use aluminum.

But please, for the love of all things archery, don't use carbon shafts. They will tear that bow's soul out.

 

Hahaha believe me, I am going to search for wooden shafts!

 

UPDATE**** my top limb is twisted but the bottom is not. What do I do?

 

How bad is it twisted?

 

If it's not bad, you can simply hold the riser in one hand and gently twist the limb with the other. Repeat until it stays straight.

If that doesn't work, a very careful and judicious application of low heat might help. Pouring warm (not hot) water on it a few times, or setting the limb in a bathtub, is usually safe, or very careful application of a hair dryer. Apply the heat long enough to "soak in" to the center of the limb, then twist if needed. Sometimes, you may be lucky enough that the heat will "relax" it back into position by itself.

Obviously, slow and easy is the name of the game.

Twisted limbs aren't totally unusual, and you can usually get them back in line if they aren't seriously tweaked.

 

If it's not bad, you can simply hold the riser in one hand and gently twist the limb with the other. Repeat until it stays straight.

If that doesn't work, a very careful and judicious application of low heat might help. Pouring warm (not hot) water on it a few times, or setting the limb in a bathtub, is usually safe, or very careful application of a hair dryer. Apply the heat long enough to "soak in" to the center of the limb, then twist if needed. Sometimes, you may be lucky enough that the heat will "relax" it back into position by itself.

Obviously, slow and easy is the name of the game.

Twisted limbs aren't totally unusual, and you can usually get them back in line if they aren't seriously tweaked.

first pic is of toptwisted limb and second is lower straight limb

 

Pyme is correct about the limb twist. (Don't tell him...but I really like my 600 carbons.)

 

(Don't tell him...but I really like my 600 carbons.)

Your bow is dead inside. 😵😄

😉

 

I have one just like this but mine is50#@28 and both my limbs were twisted but I fixed them and love this bow you won't be disappointed!

 

How did you fix? Like Pyme stated?

 

Another thing when you go to string it make sure to use a stringer or you will ruin everything you just fixed!!!

 

Yes.............It is a homunculus zombie bow...which reaches out with lightning strikes of carbon issuing death to venison and yellow spots on targets alike!

 

Any stringer with the two leather "cups" on the end and a strong piece of cord between them is fine.

I have no experience with a thumb tab.

I've always just used a simple Kant-Pinch style calf hair tab. They seem to work best for my natural anchor point, and require just a simple relaxing of my fingers away from my face. Super simple and has worked for me for probably 40 years, after moving on from a glove.

 

So I have tried tabs and I really don't like the lack of feel on the string. Would a glove be a good alternative?

 

The thumb release increases draw length dramatically. Also, a right handed archer would need a left handed bow due to the way the thumb rolls the string during the draw. The arrow would very likely fall off the bow if you tried that right hand draw on a RH bow. The kantpinch is a very good tab, and you should feel no loss of sensation with it. I make tabs and some guys like mine, some don't. Most traditional archers will cycle through several until they settle on what they prefer. One VERY good commercial tab that I feel is underrated is the Saunders Pak-tab. You have the option of building it with their components in one kit....and....it only uses two screws to turn! Gloves can work ..I mean, kook at Byron Ferguson and Howard Hill! But, also look at most competitive archers, where accuracy really counts...and they are using tabs almost exclusively. Lastly, as a string builder, I can tell you that a 58 inch amo bow takes a 54 inch string, not a 58, which would just sit on the bow slack.

 

Lastly, as a string builder, I can tell you that a 58 inch amo bow takes a 54 inch string, not a 58, which would just sit on the bow slack.

What?? 😲

You haven't heard of the latest craze??

Zero brace height?

All the cool kids are doing it. 😎

Yes, you are totally correct. 👍 Not sure what I was thinking as I was typing. That one is common knowledge. I must've been in a hurry or distracted. Thanks for the correction. 😊

So, from there, you can fine tune with a twist or two to find what your bow likes best.

 

Gloves are a really good alternative to tabs and personally I really like gloves especially if you hunt where it gets cold cause then you will be use to shooting with gloves on even though it's a little different gloves it is still basically the same.

 

Congrats, I'm new to traditional as well. Started with a light samick sage, then started shooting my grandpas old ben pearson bushmaster which is what I am hunting with this year. I have also found an old Shakespeare Tioga a guy in my town was selling for $20. Most recently I purchased a Ben Pearson Hunter like yours! Mine's 60# @28" but with my 26 inch draw it is probably closer to 55 pounds. I can tell it is a whole different beast compared to my 45 pound bows, both in terms of how much energy it puts into the arrow, and how much energy it takes from me to draw it. I believe 55 pounds is pretty much my limit if not slightly overbowed for me right now. By next season I believe I should be shooting it very well. I like that I can shoot a hefty arrow with it and still throw it with some heat!

 

I am beyond excited to get things going. I need to find a good string first and then arrows.

 

Coooome to the daaaaark siiiide....shoooooot the caaaaaarbons....hahaha!😂

 

I can't do it....I guess I am a purest at heart hahaha