You can use super glue but I've lost more tips that way than cold melt. I'd use a hot melt. Some people even use hot glue guns. If you want a bond that will never break and you will never be able to get out, use an epoxy

I literally have no idea what I'm doing.......ever.

 

I think Infidel does know what he's doing, because he's right, IMO. I've also had the best luck with plain old hot melt from the hardware store. Yes, you will lose a point here and there from time to time if you have a kind of a "lip" on there due to an imperfect fit, but especially for all-carbon shafts, that's the best way to go.

If you really want it in there for good, slow cure epoxy will make sure you never reuse that point ever again...

lee.

 

Gorilla Glue All temp glue sticks. Make sure you rough up the inside of the shaft first, then clean it with alcohol.
Heat up the insert, heat up the glue, apply the glue to the insert, allow it to cool, then heat up again and insert into shaft and allow to cool or dunk it into water.

 

Quick Stick hot melt from Big Jim’s Bow Co. that’s all I’ve used for inserts/outserts for the last 10yrs. I bet I have not lost more than 2 inserts in a target in all that time, and anytime I need an insert out, it’s out in seconds with no damage to anything!

Bisch


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This right here. Been using the same for just as long. Can’t get no better than this.


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Thanks guys!

 

Hot melt I've used it for years now no problems so far. Hot melt also makes for easy removal.

 

archery talk can be different over time. I have seen post before where someone who posted about using hot melt on carbon arrows was trashed. Later everyone is now using hot melt. I have never lost a point in a million shots with hot melt to , it never works.

I am going to say proceed with caution.

I have had good luck with it at the right temperature and prep ,and the right insert. Some inserts, outserts, and collars I say there are better options.

Realize several manufacturers do not want you using it.

And many professional shops glue them in with the right super glue or tip grip for the application with no problem.

I have tried to get out inserts with the proper super glue using the drill bit slamming method and damaged the arrow before I got out the insert.

It is nice to be able to to change inserts, but again,

for some arrows and inserts,outserts,collars. I do not believe it is the proper application of hot melt.

The most important thing is if you leave behind a point in a target , make sure it is one only you shoot.

 

archery talk can be different over time. I have seen post before where someone who posted about using hot melt on carbon arrows was trashed. Later everyone is now using hot melt. I have never lost a point in a million shots with hot melt to , it never works.

I am going to say proceed with caution.

I have had good luck with it at the right temperature and prep ,and the right insert. Some inserts, outserts, and collars I say there are better options.

Realize several manufacturers do not want you using it.

And many professional shops glue them in with the right super glue or tip grip for the application with no problem.

I have tried to get out inserts with the proper super glue using the drill bit slamming method and damaged the arrow before I got out the insert.

It is nice to be able to to change inserts, but again,

for some arrows and inserts,outserts,collars. I do not believe it is the proper application of hot melt.

The most important thing is if you leave behind a point in a target , make sure it is one only you shoot.

This is the most honest answer I have seen and this guy is correct. On AT if you ask a question one way it can get a certain reply then you ask it another and it goes 100% differently..........lol.

Since I hunt and like a 500 grain arrow I just use aluminum.....that works too because they are way tougher than people think IF you want to shoot a heavier arrow. 450 and down (for the average guy) they suck pond water. One of many many reasons I still use them is easy of repair, building and great spec's for the $$. If I wanted a 500 grain carbon I could do that too but I inherit many issues like this I don't want to deal with.

When I do shoot carbon and I do.......I use epoxy but I put a broad head in and rotate it to ensure a good spin and then let it set up. The only drawback then is you can take them out or cut the arrow.

Also as a hunter and depending on the head you use they can REALLY test your insert strength.........try pulling a Ramcat out of a foam target and that's a WHOLE different thing than a field tip or a two blade no barbed head......so that matters too.

 

Gorilla glue impact tough is amazing.

 

Regular craft store hot glue sticks work great for me. The bohning blue stuff wouldnt hold my HIT inserts, but the cheapo sticks do.

Like with the cool melt, you can still dip in boiling water for a few seconds to remove them or index broadheads.

 

Bohning Insert Iron.....Bohning Insert Iron 1oz Bottle Glue Archery Points Tips Nocks # 01317 10847013170 | eBay

 

G5 blue glue

 

G5 Blue Glue is great stuff for inserts and vanes! It's a terrible value though. You pay for enough glue to build 5-6 dozen complete arrows. You build 1 dozen. By the time you build another dozen a few months later, all the glue is rock hard, no matter how carefully you resealed the squeeze bottle. I switched after my second bottle of Blue Glue did that. That's been my experience anyway. I keep hoping G5 will provide a better bottle... some day soon. I've never had Bob Smith Industries products do that.

 

I prep the insides of shafts with a few twisting strokes with a clean rifle bore brush, clean with denatured or 91% alcohol and glue in inserts with Bob Smith Industries Insta-Flex +.

Don't use this method though, if you ever plan to remove inserts later!

 

Whenever my inserts come out it seems the glue is sticking to the insert and not the inside of the arrow shaft. I too now "rough up" and clean the inside of the shaft with a bore brush and then use ETOH with a Q tip to clean the inside. Also a rule of thumb is that the faster a glue cures the quicker it becomes brittle. I like to use a slow cure 2 part epoxy and be patient. The other nice thing with 2 part epoxy is it doesn't dry out in the bottle like every other glue I've used.

 

I have always used loctite gel control without issue.

 

I tried the blue melt for the first time (since I may want to remove the inserts and cut the arrows again) and so far so good. I also purchased the Bob smith Industries (BSI) rubberized superglue made for high impact. Seems rock solid !!!!!

 

Depends on a few things1 is type or Arrow Aluminum or Carbon and 2 is what type of Insert like HIT? You can try any kind of Adhesive but when a manufacturer has their Type recommended and you don't use it then you have nothing if what you did use fails to keep the Insert in place! Like Easton HIT's special adhesive. Even when it is used the HIT can and have pushed back in their Arrows. Even when a Pro Shop does the work cutting & installing the HIT's !
LFM

 

Slow cure epoxy,if you need to get it back out drop a drill bit in the shaft and give it a few swings and the drill bit will act like a dead blow hammer and drive it back out.

 

I’m new here from the skiing world. I’ve seen once or twice here the reference to the best epoxy in the world for this job — G-Flex. It is a slow cure epoxy that is designed to remain semi flexible. It is lights out better than all the Archery specific or Gorilla / Loctite options which are too brittle.

Downside: not cheap. Like 40 for a set. Upside: I use it all the time and half left after 3 years


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I’m new here from the skiing world. I’ve seen once or twice here the reference to the best epoxy in the world for this job — G-Flex. It is a slow cure epoxy that is designed to remain semi flexible. It is lights out better than all the Archery specific or Gorilla / Loctite options which are too brittle.

Downside: not cheap. Like 40 for a set. Upside: I use it all the time and half left after 3 years


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I think I may try your method. I always bore out the inside and then clean it. Where you really got me is bob smith. Anything bob smith has my trust, so knowing that the insta flex works, I will purchasing from ebay right now.

I sure hope it works as well for you as it does for me (especially now that I've touted it so highly 😆). I use it when building Victory VAPs and VAP TKOs. I've never had an insert pull out or get loose, even when shot into the toughest targets. I have to squeeze a .177 cal bore brush into them, which works great.

 

I have been experimenting with the low temp glues, only lost one insert/FP.....punched the trigger and sent arrow into pressure treated target frame.........so far pretty happy with it........the way I do my arrows is first scuff up the inside of the shaft, run a Q-tip with denatured alcohol on it down the shaft until its clean, set them aside until dry, then heat up insert / point until glue melts on it, then twist the shaft as i set the insert........I do this regardless of glue used

 

I've used JB Weld for years with aluminum inserts and carbon shafts. If the insert comes out the arrow is broken/ compromised.

 

I use Vibratite 310. It’s tough and as long as you prep the shaft properly (and also don’t use expired glue lol). You will never have one come loose.


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lately i have used epoxy and gorilla glue super glue and either one is incredibly strong. i think it's the ones i epoxied in that i can now not get out no matter what i try, i have tried it all. you won't have to worry about losing tips but you probably won't be switching out inserts

 

Use the flame method