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What do you call "big" fixed broadheads ?

My idea is anything over 1.5 inch cut. I am a fan of German Kinetics Sliver Flames XXL which are a sliver under 2 inch cut !!! 1 7/8ths I think ? They fly great, there is NO other head any sharper, or built better. The lightest of the series starts @ 175 grains,which are the ones I use.

But before you get to slinging broadheads,,,,I feel a bow tune is critical. I'm a paper tune guy to make sure my arrow is coming into my animal without a wobble and providing maximum penetration. I always have walk backed my bow. There are other ways, but walk back works great for me. Normally I don't bareshaft tune because i'll have my arrows custom wrapped already in most cases and i'm not touching that. I can get a good idea with the vanes thru paper and besides which, I always shoot my animals with vanes,not vaneless,,,lol. But bareshafting is a great thing to do. I start @ 20 yards, go straight out to 50 and then dial in the others. I jump to 50 because once 50 or 60 is in, the others will follow suit.
 

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Had some great luck with Simmons once the tuning worked. I have switched to the 135gr. Landsharks and really like the accuracy. I shoot a 4-fletch CEMax Red 250, but this week am trying to reduce the fletches to three and use a 20gr. insert if needed. I had less luck with tuning the 165's, but the damage they do is so worth it to get it right. Order the sharpening jig with the little washers. I reeeeeeeeally like being able to fix them and sharpen easily. I used to shoot ST's but hard to keep the blades sharp once nicked. My $.02. JK
 

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Trying to find an accurate big cut fixed blade for upcoming bow season. Been having some mixed results. I've used slick trick mags in past they shoot good with my rig but want to use a stronger head- had a lot of blades break in past. Really want to use the Magnus black hornets but dont't seem to be grouping as well. Has anyone had these issues or do I need to tune up my bow? Hitting right with field points with some of the heads and a 4-5 inches off with others. Switched out the arrows with some of the heads and that helped but never had to do this before. My ironwills hitting dead on so think my bow in tune. Groups were at 45 yds. What should I do
If you're heads aren't grouping well you need to look at (1) the tune of the arrow and (2) the tune of the bow.

You can take care of both by shooting a bareshaft at multiple distances and correcting the issues one at a time. Issues can be nock up/down, left/right and point of impact.
 

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Discussion Starter #24
What do you call "big" fixed broadheads ?

My idea is anything over 1.5 inch cut. I am a fan of German Kinetics Sliver Flames XXL which are a sliver under 2 inch cut !!! 1 7/8ths I think ? They fly great, there is NO other head any sharper, or built better. The lightest of the series starts @ 175 grains,which are the ones I use.

But before you get to slinging broadheads,,,,I feel a bow tune is critical. I'm a paper tune guy to make sure my arrow is coming into my animal without a wobble and providing maximum penetration. I always have walk backed my bow. There are other ways, but walk back works great for me. Normally I don't bareshaft tune because i'll have my arrows custom wrapped already in most cases and i'm not touching that. I can get a good idea with the vanes thru paper and besides which, I always shoot my animals with vanes,not vaneless,,,lol. But bareshafting is a great thing to do. I start @ 20 yards, go straight out to 50 and then dial in the others. I jump to 50 because once 50 or 60 is in, the others will follow suit.
When I'm talking about big fixed blades refering to 4 blades or 2 with bleeder preferably coc that main blades are bigger than 1 1/16.
 
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