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Bohning platinum fletching glue

4.7K views 57 replies 31 participants last post by  BigBob75  
#1 ·
Having problems with this glue. I throughly clean my arrows with denatured alcohol. As instructed, I leave the vane in the jig for 5 plus minutes. Next day, most if the vanes easily pull off. Anyone have any suggestions to make this glue work?
 
#6 ·
Clean the base of your vanes. And not all vanes are compatible. I've no issues using Platinum with Bohning vanes, but many arrows these days have coatings and slick finish. Try a quick swipe of 0000 steel wool on the shaft then clean.. or use wraps.
 
#7 ·
I fletch over wraps. I clean the base of the vane with a Q tip and acetone. Put on the glue Hold the vane down for 10 seconds then let it sit for maybe 30 seconds after that. Then on to the next without touching it. Tip the ends after your done and let set over night.
The only issue I’ve had is with this glue are tubes from the previous season. I usually start fletching with a fresh tube at the start of the year and use last years tube for the tips and tails of the vanes.


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#8 ·
Could be the age of this Adhesive, there has been some that seem to point this out over the years here at Archerytalk? Also depends on the age of the Vane, the shafts exterior itself, I once use the Bohning Platinum but when I switch Vanes I also switched the brand of Adhesive i am using? Now use Flex-Fletch Flex-Bond Adhesive. With my Q2i Fusion 3 inch Vane on my Aluminum Arrows no longer use Wraps as I had issues with the Platinum Adhesive. even used Scotchbrite Pad to rough the Shaft or the wrap made little difference as to getting Vanes to stick and stay on...No longer hae that but I don't keep the Adhesive for more than 1.5 years once it is opened I do need to waste $ on Vanes that could come off and for the cost of a new tube of adhesive well worth tossing an older tube out!
This is another common topic about either vanes won't stick, or what is the better adhesive, the better vane of feather or shaft causing them not to stay on. Adhesives need to set up some like the instant gel seem to get brittle so many different ones once ypu find the one that works for you then you should be good...
Good Luck...
LFM
 
#10 ·
I have been using fletch tite forever, Platinum plus now. I had a shop/lanes from 1964 thru 1982 & 90% of arrows out the door we made. Now, I build/repair for 8 family members. Carbon, Aluminum & wood shafts, feathers & various vanes. I use Platinum plus on bareshaft & wraps + a "few" woods painted or stained. I have had no problems at all. I use a JoJan multi fletcher now (have used Bitzenburgers too). Offset & Helical. Roughly 5 + min in Jig, always a dab on each end of fletch & ready to shoot the next day (my routine). Thousands of arrows of several materials & no problems. On a bare shaft I rough with a "very fine" steel wool as on paint or stain. Wraps, just glue on.. I've made arrows since I started in 1956. I never touch the fletch end once ready to fletch-that little bit of finger oil can cause a problem. It can get "old" but I never have a tube long enough for that.
 
#11 · (Edited)
I would ask vanes? Some require cleaning - denature alcohol works. Bohning vanes come already prepped - no need to clean....

Yes, Bohning fan here, vanes and glue. I store opened glue in refrigerator. Lasts years..........
Shelf life of Bohning vanes is said 3 years. 2 to 3 years ago I finally used up the Bohning vanes I got at the 2010 ASA ProAm in Metropolis. Stored well I think I well exceeded the shelf life of 2 to 3 years.

Arrow prep. Old glue removed. Scuff with Scotch Brite. Clean with denatured alcohol. Don't whip down after cleaning with denatured alcohol.
Don't touch where arrow goes. Don't touch base of vane.

I've use Bohning Platinum religiously since 2008 for sure. First vane on, leave for 7 minutes (5 works, but caution needed). I can shoot 5 minutes out of the jig. I just don't shoot something the arrow will pass through or let my hand slip over vanes when pulling.

I do "button" the ends of the vanes.

I was the fletcher at the shop I worked at and I got enough I guaranteed my work. Customer's arrows were kept separated by plastic separators so vanes wouldn't touch anything if laid down.

I used Platinum when here on AT it wasn't good at all. Used Platinum to fletch worst offending vanes told of on AT.

Shot through truck bed liner, twice. .414" diameter arrow - 2 1/4" Bohning Shield cut vane

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Vanes fletched at least 10 years ago (testing vanes for sports company). Shot and pictured 8/5/2020

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Fletched used vanes - 10/8/2020. 1st pic, you can see glue that I couldn't remove. 2nd pic shot at least 15 times right out of the jig...

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#12 ·
Yes I have had the problem exactly as you described. I tried everything,still would come off. I have read on here how successful some people are with it. I must have got a bad tube is all I can think of. If you get it to work would like to hear about it. I already know how the guys who have been using it for thirty years feel. I would like to hear from someone who has had problems with it and then figured out exactly what it was. I do know their are a lot of complaints in reviews about the formulation change to platinum. I am not doubting the people who are successful with it.
 
#19 ·
Fletch Tite was great but Platinum NOT so much more like junk. One time fletched dz. arrows with wraps & feathers & a couple days later went out to shoot them & had feathers fall off on way to target & more at the
target & back then was MFG. arrows for 15 years 10's of K dz. so wasn't a newbe just JUNK glue. When you have a product that has worked foe over 40 years why would you mess with it.
 
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#22 ·
I have been using Platinum for many years, only issue is with AAE vanes
 
#26 ·
Only time I ever had it work was hot temp cure for 48hrs but pretty much use super glue now not worth the hassle of waiting extra time for a lesser result and wasn't a fan of the mess it makes all though it does roll off easy being like a rubber cement almost when dry enough to clean but not shoot
Not picking on you, just using for example.

Most all fletching issues are operator error and then in the same boat is the jig not set properly. Most all glues require the absence of air to dry and cure.

Straight clamps are different, but helical clamps are a snap. To set up my jig I use two short vanes, one in each end of the clamp. Both vanes well seated the jig is set. You can't ask for anything better for longer vanes and this, of course, works for short vanes, but the jig can be adjusted to give more offset to the helical effect.

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Last arrow I fletched I used the Bohning Impulse. Came out great. I took it out of the jig and couldn't have been 5 minutes I shot it - my 35 yard walk up range is maybe 30 feet from where I fletched the arrow. Only weighs 5 grs, but 4" long. I need to take picture of it now. I let go during practice and blew through two layers of plastic canvas and stopped about a 1/3 of the light of the vane, but vane held great. Thread in the canvas tore a piece off the front of one vane. Jig is my oldest Jo-Jan, 30+ years old.......

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#25 ·
Only time I ever had it work was hot temp cure for 48hrs but pretty much use super glue now not worth the hassle of waiting extra time for a lesser result and wasn't a fan of the mess it makes all though it does roll off easy being like a rubber cement almost when dry enough to clean but not shoot
 
#27 ·
I use the Bohning Blazer Bond and keep it in the fridge. I also use the Bohning vanes without any problems. I put 91% alcohol on a Q-tip and just wipe the vane with one pass. I put maybe 2 small drops of glue on the base of the vane and use the tip of a pencil to spread the glue out. I use the tip to remove any excess glue before I stick it to the shaft. I put pressure for maybe 10 seconds and then remove clamp. I then go to the next vane. I have not had any problems and the vanes are stuck. I have a harder time removing the vanes. Ditch the Platinum and get the Bohning Blazer Bond glue.