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I've owned a Hoyt Factor 34 since it was new. My question is how many shots before a bow begins losing its accuracy? I am a decent shot and shoot competitively on a pretty regular basis. That to say that I shoot this bow a LOT. Thousands upon thousands of shots have been made with this bow. It seems to me that over the last 6 months or so my shot groups have opened up a bit. I also shoot a Hoyt Podium X elite and am a 299-300 shooter with it. I used to be able to shoot 296-298 with the Factor. Now it seems I can't break 290 with it. Any suggestions? I have replaced the strings / cables with Winners Choice strings / cables but that doesn't seem to effect the bow. I know the bow is outdated a little, but it has been a great bow. Any suggestions? I am very conscious of my form etc.
 

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The bow itself is just a simple machine. As long as you check the tune every once in a while and make sure your sight is calibrated, it will do its job as long as you do yours.

I am thinking you might need to focus on quality over quantity and continue to develop your form. Maybe switch to a different release to mix things up a bit so your brain has to retrain itself.

Either that or spend money on some time with a coach to evaluate your performance.

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I've owned a Hoyt Factor 34 since it was new. My question is how many shots before a bow begins losing its accuracy? I am a decent shot and shoot competitively on a pretty regular basis. That to say that I shoot this bow a LOT. Thousands upon thousands of shots have been made with this bow. It seems to me that over the last 6 months or so my shot groups have opened up a bit. I also shoot a Hoyt Podium X elite and am a 299-300 shooter with it. I used to be able to shoot 296-298 with the Factor. Now it seems I can't break 290 with it. Any suggestions? I have replaced the strings / cables with Winners Choice strings / cables but that doesn't seem to effect the bow. I know the bow is outdated a little, but it has been a great bow. Any suggestions? I am very conscious of my form etc.
Creep Tuning. Yoke Tuning. French Tuning. Modified French Tuning. Bareshaft Tuning. Paper Tuning. HIL (John Dudley Horizontal Impact Line Tuning). Group Tuning. Tuning Draw Length to the 1/16th of an inch. Tuning the stabilizer system front heaviness balance to the 1/3rd of an ounce. Nock Tuning.

Here is a one hour long video about how to tune just ARROWS.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hOCJsDxP-BU


Watch the entire video and try everything in the video. You are not tuned, until you give this a try.
 

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Bows don't lose any accuracy unless there's a problem with it. Usually on older bows, that takes the form of chewed up bearings in the cams (ones with high speed ball bearings anyway). The first effect is "catching" at full draw, due to wear and divets in the races, which can affect the shot. The other is when they develop play causing the cam to slop around.

But it has to be really bad to get to that point.

Basically look for anything moving, rocking, wobbling on the bow that didn't used to. Also check the cam bearings for play and roughness, etc.

Apart from that, the bow will shoot like it's always shot, assuming string lengths didn't change hugely when changed, etc. The chances are you're just not used to it anymore, if you shoot other bows more than that one and on a regular basis.....

lee.
 

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i wouldn't worry about the bow until you have had about 40,000 shots through it. if you haven't shot it that much, there is probably nothing on it that is worn out, unless you have a bad rest.
 

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Bow probably just needs a "tune up" as in checking for string/cable stretch that may have caused the draw length or timing to change, and or worn serving that may have changed nock fit and/or nock height.
 

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Hoyt Faktor outdated? Maybe. Still a great bow? Absolutely. I have hunted with the Defiant and shot a Hyperforce but I still love my Faktor 34 that I use for 3d. As everyone else said check over the tune specifically the cam timing and nock height. Also if you have a drop away rest make sure it is still timed properly.
 

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Accuracy is the jerk, jerking the string. If the bow is poperly tuned the weak link is you. Confidence in your equipment is also part of it.
 

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I would see if there is a way to check deflection of your limbs. I disagree with everyone that said it's not the bow. Limbs want last forever and it could be a limb breaking down. If you have a draw board, put it on board and and draw it back very slowly and inspect your limbs all the way through the cycle. If you think something is wrong you have to inspect and check everything to convince yourself it's nothing wrong with the bow so you will have the confidence in your equipment. When there's doubt , there's trouble shooting to your abilities. I would remove strings and check cams and axles and limbs and then start from beginning with tune. When you"know" 100% bow is good your shooting will get back to its best.
 

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Reckoning 35 for 3D, RealmX for hunt, PSE SupraFocusXL for spot . Axcel, ARC release, Victory.
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Creep Tuning. Yoke Tuning. French Tuning. Modified French Tuning. Bareshaft Tuning. Paper Tuning. HIL (John Dudley Horizontal Impact Line Tuning). Group Tuning. Tuning Draw Length to the 1/16th of an inch. Tuning the stabilizer system front heaviness balance to the 1/3rd of an ounce. Nock Tuning.

Here is a one hour long video about how to tune just ARROWS.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hOCJsDxP-BU


Watch the entire video and try everything in the video. You are not tuned, until you give this a try.

Thank's for this, I've been making my arrows like Tim Gilligan teaches in GT Arrow university. And mostly they're good.

Here's some new stuff what takes "bad day touch feeling" away from arrow building.
Everything is measured correctly. Will need to get one of those measuring jig's
 

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Reckoning 35 for 3D, RealmX for hunt, PSE SupraFocusXL for spot . Axcel, ARC release, Victory.
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double for some reason..
 

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Something hardly ever mentioned any more is the arrow nocks. They don't last forever and wear a little over time. It doesn't hurt to just get new ones and trash the old ones. Maybe it's not the bow causing problems. Another part of tuning is checking the center serving diameter, especially on new strings. If nock fit is to tight it can affect accuracy and a couple thousandths can make a big difference. Is the center serving on your new strings the same as your old ones?
 

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I would see if there is a way to check deflection of your limbs. I disagree with everyone that said it's not the bow. Limbs want last forever and it could be a limb breaking down. If you have a draw board, put it on board and and draw it back very slowly and inspect your limbs all the way through the cycle. If you think something is wrong you have to inspect and check everything to convince yourself it's nothing wrong with the bow so you will have the confidence in your equipment. When there's doubt , there's trouble shooting to your abilities. I would remove strings and check cams and axles and limbs and then start from beginning with tune. When you"know" 100% bow is good your shooting will get back to its best.
Interesting your thoughts. In over 40 years I have never seen a compound bow limb go weak. Break, but never go weak.
 

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Hey Pago,

A bow kept in good condition should never really "lose" it's accuracy, but it is possible for bows to lose their tune after a while, and stuff definitely breaks.

In the former, if you really want to get the most from your bow, it's important to take notes on your timing, ATA, draw weight and so on when you first set it up so you can monitor it for changes as time goes on. A few pounds difference in your holding weight can make a big difference in how the bow feels, for example, and I know personally it can be the difference between a few points.

If something were broken it's usually pretty obvious and your scores would have dropped a LOT lower, but not always. Take your bow to the shop and have them give it a good once over. If they're an experienced shop they'll know what to look for on any given bow model.

Related to my first point; most bows that I've ever dealt with lose about 1-2 lbs of draw weight a year, just from the limbs taking a set. If you knew what your bow was at when you started you can check it now and try to get it back to that point if its dropped.
 

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Hey Pago,

A bow kept in good condition should never really "lose" it's accuracy, but it is possible for bows to lose their tune after a while, and stuff definitely breaks.

In the former, if you really want to get the most from your bow, it's important to take notes on your timing, ATA, draw weight and so on when you first set it up so you can monitor it for changes as time goes on. A few pounds difference in your holding weight can make a big difference in how the bow feels, for example, and I know personally it can be the difference between a few points.

If something were broken it's usually pretty obvious and your scores would have dropped a LOT lower, but not always. Take your bow to the shop and have them give it a good once over. If they're an experienced shop they'll know what to look for on any given bow model.

Related to my first point; most bows that I've ever dealt with lose about 1-2 lbs of draw weight a year, just from the limbs taking a set. If you knew what your bow was at when you started you can check it now and try to get it back to that point if its dropped.
That 1-2 lbs lose is not because of limb set. It is because of string and cables settling in.
 
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