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Discussion Starter #1
I have been noticing that when my bow goes off, it likes to "jump" or kick. It doesn’t seem to affect accuracy 20 yards and under as bad as it does at 30 and above. Anyone have any suggestions on what I could do to minimize this. I have thought of adding more weight ( i do have a 12 inch dish and my bow roughly weighs 6 pounds.)
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Yea I know I need to upgrade my bow, but do you guys think that this "jump" could be in fact what is making accuracy past 20 yards very hard. I was thinking about trying the suppressor that doinker makes but .
 

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What kind of 'kick' are you getting from the bow? Does the bottom kick out towards the target? Is it more of a full bow movement in some direction? How comfortable and consistant is your grip?

I ask only because I had a bow that the bottom would kick forward toward the limb on some shots and I diagnosed it down to my grip. The grip angle in combination with the occasional "deep" grip with a little too much heel into the grip would put pressure on the bottom of the grip and push the bottom of the bow forward on the shot. It was just a grip style and angle that didn't work for me.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Im not so sure because it happens so fast. The best way i can describe it as if the whole bow jumps toward the target and then settles back down. But some times as it jumps it seems to move left or right; i think this is just the bow coming back in contact with a different part of my hand than what was on the grip orginally before the shot went off. It seems like some times this movement does affect the shot and then it will on the next one.
 

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Gert someone else to watch what the bow does when you fire it and tell you what the end of the stab is doing.
I tune my bows so that if they jump, they jump straight forward. I balance my bows by hanging them from a hook (in a couple of places) and making sure the center of gravity is as close to the deepest part of the grip as I can. I usually find that 1 or 2 inches in front works best for me. Hand position may cause torque which may affect impact left and right. I use a sidebar to get the left right balance as well. It may take quite a while by playing with the right length stab and weights but it is worth it.
b


Then I let go of the bow and let it go where it will (with a strap of course, no sense in having it hit the ground).
 

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If it's the bottom kicking toward the target, and rocking the bow backwards, that's just the old school "single cam kick" and you can't get rid of it altogether. Don't bother adding doodads, they'll just be a waste of money. It was caused by the cam weighing 8X as much as the idler, something that's been addressed to some extent on newer single cams.
 

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Well buster do i just live with my lack of accuarcy beyond 30 yards until i can afford a new bow?
First, I'd say that by getting the cam rotation right through some string and cable twists it will improve a bit. With the limb bolts maxed out compare tiller top and bottom and your bow is probably not set even. Make it so it is.

Second, even a crappy bow can be accurate at any distance. The lack of accuracy at those longer ranges is probably you, and could be any of a hundred different things, from DL, to anchor, to peep height, to hand torque and so on and so forth. Just looking at the pin at long range will ruin your accuracy.
 
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