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Discussion Starter #1
I've gone to two different shops recently and their scales differ by about 3 pounds. I'm not sure if this is normal but I'd like to figure out my draw weight as accurately as possible.

With my bad shoulder, if I can back it down a couple pounds I want to.

So, I'm willing to buy my own scale if I knew I could rely on the accuracy.

What's a good ACCURATE bow scale?

Thanks!!
 

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Most scales are adjustable so get a scale & find a certified scale like at post office & take a bow that weights about 50# & have it verified at the post office what it is & then weight it on you scale & adjust it. I don't think that 3 lbs. will help your shoulder at all.
 

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I've gone to two different shops recently and their scales differ by about 3 pounds. I'm not sure if this is normal but I'd like to figure out my draw weight as accurately as possible.

With my bad shoulder, if I can back it down a couple pounds I want to.

So, I'm willing to buy my own scale if I knew I could rely on the accuracy.

What's a good ACCURATE bow scale?

I have the OMP which is digital by October Mountain Products and the Hanson 100 which I have had long
before digital scales were available.

As for dropping bow draw weight due to your shoulder injury, depending on what your bow is in regards to
draw weight, you may be better to go with limbs say 10 pound less draw weight. These can still be backed off,
but by backing off the draw weight the bow does not shoot as efficient. By this, you lose some speed and there
is a change in arrow trajectory for the same distance. I changed limbs to a lower draw weight and backed these
off until I got strength built back in my arm and shoulder. As my strength returned, I gradually increased the
draw weight. Going back to the original limbs for a few shots, I returned to the lower draw weight limbs and
continue to use them maxed out. Much more comfortable shooting for me.
Take care of that shoulder. All the best.
 

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I just bought an AWS scale then calibrated it using waterjugs(1l = 1kg). It works great and is a way better than those cheap OMP type scales.
 

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I just bought an AWS scale then calibrated it using waterjugs(1l = 1kg). It works great and is a way better than those cheap OMP type scales.
There are two companies that build the OMP. The quality one is from the U.S.A. while the problem one (poor ring design) is from China.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
As for dropping bow draw weight due to your shoulder injury, depending on what your bow is in regards to
draw weight, you may be better to go with limbs say 10 pound less draw weight.
Not a bad idea and actually something I haven't thought about. I'm already shooting a 50-60, I guess 40-50 would probably make sense, actually a lot of sense.

I'd have to turn in my man card but with my shoulder it is what it is.
 

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Sounds like you got a 60# bow and you're trying to crank it down to its lowest possible draw weight (which you're assuming is 50#). It would probably be better to just read your bow's manual to find out the max number of turns you can back the limbs out.

Reason being, some 60# bows will never hit 50# while keeping within manufacturers spec. Example, my Elite 65# E35 with stock strings (and twisted x strings which i'd assume was made to spec) had a min draw weight of 61# when backed out the maximum 2 turns.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Yeah that's what I was thinking. Buying the lower limbs would be a better but more expensive option.

Still need a scale though. Thanks for your insight.
 

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There are two companies that build the OMP. The quality one is from the U.S.A. while the problem one (poor ring design) is from China.
I didn't intend to bash OMP. I've actually used one for the last few years without issues. I'm guessing they're all made in china by the looks and price though. The AWS seems a lot tougher for 20 bucks more, but might also be China. Not sure.
 
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