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Discussion Starter #1
So I have been into archery for a few years now, but only ever went to a shop to have the strings an cables changed on my bow. I never asked and they never said anything about tuning. I guess I never really took it seriously or understood it, and I don't know if the shop did either to be honest. Over the last year or so I have learned a lot about tuning and how important it is mostly through youtube. I recently purchased a new (to me) bow, sight, and rest; and I plan on taking my bow to a different shop to have the draw mods changed and get everthing set up/tuned. I am looking for any advice as to what to pay attention to and what to ask about/for at the new shop. Also wondering what a fair price for all this would be. Sorry for the long post and thanks in advance for any help. There are only about 3 bow shops around anf its just over an hour to all of them. So when I go I want to already have an idea of what all needs done, how it needs done and how much to pay for it. That way I dont have to make multiple trips and pay to much to have it done wrong.
 

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I would start by checking ATA and brace to make sure they are in spec (you can do this at home with a tape measure before you go) as a starting point. You can move from there while tuning but that’s where you should start.

Check draw weight with the limb bolts maxed out. Ensure you are hitting your peak weight. Add (If low) or remove (if high) twists from cables to hit peak draw weight.

Check cam sync (each bow is different as to how this is done) at rest. Then check timing to ensure both cams are hitting the cable stops with the stops all the way out. From there they can set your cable stops as appropriate. Traditionally this means setting one stops, putting it on the draw board until it touches then moving the other stop to contact the cable/limb depending on the stops.

Ensure centershot For the rest is set to manufacturers recommendation and the nocking point has the arrow level To slightly nock high. I personally believe level is a great starting point.

Start the tuning process with bare shafts. I like to leave the rest alone at manufacturers recommendation the best I can and yoke tune (depending on bow) or make slight rest adjustments with a binary cam bow. Shimming was required of rest adjustments exceed 1/8”. Again, personal preference. Use cable twists for vertical nock travel. Nuts and bolts has an excellent step by step he’s posted many times. I suggest you search it.

You can go down a tuning rabbit hole from there but that is a good starting point for having your work done at any shop.
 

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Also- get a press brother. It’s the single best investment you’ll ever make. EZ GREEN is great. Synumn portable can get the job done for most of your tuning needs if you’re trying to save some scratch.
 

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Also very important to make sure your sight is leveled in the 1st, 2nd and 3rd (if your sight has the adjustment) axis. Your shop should be able to do that with no issue. You can do it with a vise/ levels or a door jamb in a pinch. Plenty of threads in that as well.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks wouldnt have thought about checking the specs before hand. Ya... I have already been looking into a bow. I might end up with a bow master portable one to start out with.
 

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Thanks wouldnt have thought about checking the specs before hand. Ya... I have already been looking into a bow. I might end up with a bow master portable one to start out with.
I was originally going to do that as well but bit the bullet and went EZ green and it was the best decision I’ve ever made.
 

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to begin with Is the shop manned by friendly staff. asked all the ? U can think of. If your getting restrung U must shoot in new threads in b4 tune...the amount of shots may vary more the better... is the rest and loop centered,,cams hitting stops together at full draw.
is limb tip pressure adjusted to follow power path.. do they have a draw board,, paper tuner and the time to spend with ya... REMEMBER if you have them tune your bow its like getting your rifle bore sighted at the shop,, might b close but NO Cigar... you wouldn’t go hunting with that rifle unless U sighted it in Right? same with U tuning the bow with U by U... good luck
 

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I've only gone to a shop to set up my bow, and change the strings. Other than that, I'm able to do everything on my own.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Thanks boss lots of good points, but 1 potentialy stupid question. "is limb tip pressure adjusted to follow power path" you lost me here. Sorry for the ignorance but thanks for advice.
 

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limb tip pressure will slightly tilt cam so its more in line with the launch of your arrow. draw your bow anchor and then look up at top cam and u will c the angle of stg come off cam,,with ltp it will help minimize that apparent torque....push the arrow in alignment w/cam
 

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Letting us know what bow could be useful as guys could give you tips on what to look for. I would say that the most important thing with new string and cable is to make sure cams are in sync. This needs to be done on a draw board. All other specs important to especially dl and dw.

Other than shimming or adjusting yolks I feel you can get a really good tune without a bow press. Once cams are synced, set rest... run arrow level through the Berger holes and eyeball left right. Then go to a bare shaft at 10 yds using rest to make adjustments. Move back to 20 and fine tune. Unless you're cams are way out of whack you should be able to get good arrow flight. Most bow shops aren't going to do bare shaft tuning because consistent form is crucial and many archers especially beginners make bs tuning tough but you can do it at home.

I will agree with others you should look into getting a press....best decision I've ever made.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Boss so are you talking about cam lean left and right ( when viewed from behind the bow at full draw) or am I still confused ? I'll do some googling on the subject to try to get a better understanding of it.
Thanks rhino I forgot to mention the bow make/model. It is an Elite Option 6 and has a hamskea hybrid hunter pro rest; also has an IQ Define sight on it. Any advice on setting up these specific items is appreciated as well as general setup/tuning advice. Also if anbody got any suggestions on stabilizer system for this setup. Sight is pretty heavy so I'm considering a back bar but I have little to no stabilizer knowledge. Thanks agian for any help/advice.
 

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I have an excellent bow shop about a half hour drive from my house. Even though I am capable of doing everything I need, I usually let them do all of the work anymore. I buy nearly all of my bows and equipment from them and let them set up and get everything in spec and then they tune the bow setup to me. They build their own strings in house and they are really good. I'm usually in the shop/store looking and buying things a couple of times per week and shooting the newest bows as they get them in. You should expect for a shop to set everything to spec (ata, draw length, draw weight, centershot, brace height, etc) and papertune with a fletched arrow that you use. They can set the peep sight to you only with you there and also measure and set the draw length to you. My shop includes this with the purchase of the bow and accessories from them....and also with the purchase and install of new bowstrings. They charged my brother $150 for new strings/cables and install of his QAD rest and tune..he bought the bow previously from another dealer where he lives. I sent a bow to a professional "tuner" for strings/cables and "supertune" a few years ago and the price then was $150 including shipping back to me.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Thanks talon for the advice, and ya Qcapple I am just trying to make sure that I don't get screwed either on what needs done or how much I should pay for what does need done. I don't really completely trust the shop I had been going to. I don't know why just kinda got a bad vibe and didnt feel like they did all that they should have, so I think I'm gonna try a new one. Only 3 shop in the area are an hour or more away so i dont want to have to make more than 1 trip to get everything done right.
 

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Have not shot my bow in a while, years actually, went deep into duck hunting. Started to crave the magic of a stick and string again and took old trusty to the pro shop for a new set of strings.......Buss cable wound so tight its wound up 2 inches past the split, and maybe 4 twists in the bow string itself. The worst part of it is I could have changed the strings myself, but wanted to spread some wealth. The troubling thing is what to do now, bring it back to shop, point it out to them, or just chalk it up as a screwing, and never go back there. It used to be such a good shop, seeing what they let out of the door makes me question whether it is even worth attempting to deal with them? If your a shop owner, what would you want to happen?
 

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Well that sucks slick. If it was me and it was that bad I would take it back and make them fix it or give me my money back. The shop I thought wasn't doing a great job just wasn't tuning everything like I thought they should. Maybe they did more then I though and I was unaware of but I don't so.
Might try to go tomorrow any other advice before I do?
 

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Have not shot my bow in a while, years actually, went deep into duck hunting. Started to crave the magic of a stick and string again and took old trusty to the pro shop for a new set of strings.......Buss cable wound so tight its wound up 2 inches past the split, and maybe 4 twists in the bow string itself. The worst part of it is I could have changed the strings myself, but wanted to spread some wealth. The troubling thing is what to do now, bring it back to shop, point it out to them, or just chalk it up as a screwing, and never go back there. It used to be such a good shop, seeing what they let out of the door makes me question whether it is even worth attempting to deal with them? If your a shop owner, what would you want to happen?
Take it back to them and tell/show them your concerns and let them make it good. If they don't, then spread the word and find another, better, shop.
 

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To setup and tune your bow, using all your stuff, I would charge 79.99
Mods would be extra. Make sure they have them on hand in your DL
 
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