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Discussion Starter #1
Need some help guys. I just got an E35 and at full draw, my bubble level on my sight is buried. I have to consciously think about tilting the bow. When this happens, I have to tilt the top of the bow to the right to get the bubble centered. I have been contemplating adding a side bar off the back of the bow, but being new to using the stabilizer to balance the bow, (I always wanted te vibration damping more than anything, now I want to start getting into target shooting) I don't know what side I need to have the stabilizer come off. I'm thinking if I have to tilt the bow to the right, it should come off the right side, but I want to make sure. Thanks in advance
 

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Before you spend a lot on stabilizers, make sure you level the 2nd and 3rd axis on your sight. Also make sure your bow arm is in the correct position so it's not causing you to cant the bow.
 

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I have to agree. Has your bow ever been checked to see if your level is even in fact level to the bow? You need to do this first. If it is then you need to work on you and your form mainly how your gripping the bow, drawing it and above all if the draw length and poundage are really correct to you. Once all this is done then you worry about if you need stabilizers or not and where.
 

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If its canted to the left a side bar is going to make it worse. I would work on your grip. Are you left or right handed?
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Right handed. Also, I typed it out wrong. It's canting to the right, not left. I have checked and verified everything is plumb and level, including 2nd and 3rd axis. The bow is tuned great, shoots bullet holes, but it drives me nuts having to consciously think about leveling the bubble.
 

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Right handed. Also, I typed it out wrong. It's canting to the right, not left. I have checked and verified everything is plumb and level, including 2nd and 3rd axis. The bow is tuned great, shoots bullet holes, but it drives me nuts having to consciously think about leveling the bubble.
What sight are you shooting? Does your sight have an adjustment to allow for natural can't?
 

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Right handed. Also, I typed it out wrong. It's canting to the right, not left. I have checked and verified everything is plumb and level, including 2nd and 3rd axis. The bow is tuned great, shoots bullet holes, but it drives me nuts having to consciously think about leveling the bubble.
That's fairly normal. Almost all bows nowadays are a little top heavy and want to cant to the right for most people. A single side bar on the left should make it easier and more fun to shoot.
 

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Right handed. Also, I typed it out wrong. It's canting to the right, not left. I have checked and verified everything is plumb and level, including 2nd and 3rd axis. The bow is tuned great, shoots bullet holes, but it drives me nuts having to consciously think about leveling the bubble.
Then yes, you'll probably benefit from a back/side bar. Actually most people would but not everyone understands this. You will need something where you can experiment with different weighting and positioning. I recommend B-Stinger but there are other good options out there as well.
 

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Right handed. Also, I typed it out wrong. It's canting to the right, not left. I have checked and verified everything is plumb and level, including 2nd and 3rd axis. The bow is tuned great, shoots bullet holes, but it drives me nuts having to consciously think about leveling the bubble.
Throw a back bar on the left side. That should get you where you want to be
 

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I had the same problem with my Strother Moxie.
Shooting a 10" bar and 8oz. up front. I tried the back bar thing and by the time I got it worked out my 55 year old shoulders couldn't handle the weight.
Went back to front bar only and reset sight bubble to match my cant. Then I reset the third axis and it works just fine for me.
With that said I am just a back yard shooter/ hunter. I just shoot for pleasure and meat not points.
 

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I had the same problem with my Strother Moxie.
Shooting a 10" bar and 8oz. up front. I tried the back bar thing and by the time I got it worked out my 55 year old shoulders couldn't handle the weight.
Went back to front bar only and reset sight bubble to match my cant. Then I reset the third axis and it works just fine for me.
With that said I am just a back yard shooter/ hunter. I just shoot for pleasure and meat not points.
You probably had too much weight up front. Parallel limb bows need more back weight than front. On my XR6 I'm shooting a 10" bar up front with only 2 oz. and an 8" bar in back with 7 oz. Lots of experimenting to get the perfect balance and accuracy levels.
 

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Ya I tried going with less weight in front but for me at that front bar length the bow just held and shot best with 8 oz up front.
I researched stab set ups and tried a lot of dif. combanations, just wouldn't happen.
On my other bow an Expedition XR7S the front and side bar worked great for me . The bars being shorter and lighter I could handle the weight. The specs. I ended up with on those bars right now eludes me. But yes it is much lighter up front than the back bar.
You probably had too much weight up front. Parallel limb bows need more back weight than front. On my XR6 I'm shooting a 10" bar up front with only 2 oz. and an 8" bar in back with 7 oz. Lots of experimenting to get the perfect balance and accuracy levels.
 
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