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Discussion Starter · #141 ·
Nice looks like you can speed up top cam or slow down bottom a bit. With that slight tail low tear.
Bareshaft will tell you better than that though. If your bareshafts are hitting high, put 1/2 twist in each bottom cam yoke or take 1/2 twist out if reach top cam yokes and see if that fixes it. (I recommend yokes here for finer tining as 1/2 twists on cable ends will lead to busted serving.
That was with a bare shaft. I was referring to I guess group tuning at 20 with a bare shaft and fletched. I shot 4 more, all are about the same with about 1/8 or a little more low. I was at 8'. Didn't want to make any adjustments until I'm shooting further out.
 

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That was with a bare shaft. I was referring to I guess group tuning at 20 with a bare shaft and fletched. I shot 4 more, all are about the same with about 1/8 or a little more low. I was at 8'. Didn't want to make any adjustments until I'm shooting further out.
I meant bareshaft tuning at 20 yards. This will show you what you need to do, my guess is your bareshaft is going to be tail low at 20. In that case, as long as your test is set so the arrow is level, speed up (advance) top can or slow down (******) bottom. At that point, don't worry about the stops hitting at the same time, it should be 1/8" or so different, which isn't much if you're getting great bareshaft flight at 20.
 

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Discussion Starter · #144 ·
I meant bareshaft tuning at 20 yards. This will show you what you need to do, my guess is your bareshaft is going to be tail low at 20. In that case, as long as your test is set so the arrow is level, speed up (advance) top can or slow down (**) bottom. At that point, don't worry about the stops hitting at the same time, it should be 1/8" or so different, which isn't much if you're getting great bareshaft flight at 20.
Thanks, will do. I'm going to shoot a little on lunch today and then i'll confirm arrow is level. It was def really close but I also wasn't expecting those kind of results. haha
 

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Discussion Starter · #146 ·
I meant bareshaft tuning at 20 yards. This will show you what you need to do, my guess is your bareshaft is going to be tail low at 20. In that case, as long as your test is set so the arrow is level, speed up (advance) top can or slow down (**) bottom. At that point, don't worry about the stops hitting at the same time, it should be 1/8" or so different, which isn't much if you're getting great bareshaft flight at 20.
So I shot a fair amount on lunch today with BS and fletched arrow. I didn't take any pictures unfortunately. Tail end was a bit inconsistent I guess. Some very slightly tail low, some slightly tail high and some slight left. At most the nock end was maybe an inch difference from impact point. But what was consistent was the impact point. Out of 20 BS every one hit about 1-1.5" low and 1-1.5" left from the fletched arrow
Would you try to relieve any of that with the rest by moving it 1/16" up and about the same left or just the Yokes? Or wait and shoot again until the angle of the arrow is more consistent? I shot a couple more through paper and same hole as last night.
 

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So I shot a fair amount on lunch today with BS and fletched arrow. I didn't take any pictures unfortunately. Tail end was a bit inconsistent I guess. Some very slightly tail low, some slightly tail high and some slight left. At most the nock end was maybe an inch difference from impact point. But what was consistent was the impact point. Out of 20 BS every one hit about 1-1.5" low and 1-1.5" left from the fletched arrow
Would you try to relieve any of that with the rest by moving it 1/16" up and about the same left or just the Yokes? Or wait and shoot again until the angle of the arrow is more consistent? I shot a couple more through paper and same hole as last night.
I might try shooting a bit and checking bareshaft flight against fletched a bunch to see if it becomes more consistent. If not, I am not sure I would doo too much, but it depends on what you want to do with the bow. If I was hunting with it with large fixed head broadheads, I'd likely want to get it perfect with bareshafts, or just skip straight to broadhead tuning.
 

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Discussion Starter · #148 ·
I might try shooting a bit and checking bareshaft flight against fletched a bunch to see if it becomes more consistent. If not, I am not sure I would doo too much, but it depends on what you want to do with the bow. If I was hunting with it with large fixed head broadheads, I'd likely want to get it perfect with bareshafts, or just skip straight to broadhead tuning.
Using Iron Will Wide 125 for Whitetails so most shots are 35 and under
 

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So I shot a fair amount on lunch today with BS and fletched arrow. I didn't take any pictures unfortunately. Tail end was a bit inconsistent I guess. Some very slightly tail low, some slightly tail high and some slight left. At most the nock end was maybe an inch difference from impact point. But what was consistent was the impact point. Out of 20 BS every one hit about 1-1.5" low and 1-1.5" left from the fletched arrow
Would you try to relieve any of that with the rest by moving it 1/16" up and about the same left or just the Yokes? Or wait and shoot again until the angle of the arrow is more consistent? I shot a couple more through paper and same hole as last night.
The adjustments you make for bare shafts are going to be the same adjustments you make for fixed blade broadheads. So I personally prefer to do as much of the tuning as I can shooting bare shafts, that way I minimize tearing up my broadhead target and time spent resharpening blades. It sounds like you’re getting a consistent point of impact with your bare shafts that would indicate a slight nock high/nock right. As far as the inconsistency in angle of entry, are you shooting at a foam target? A bag target will sometimes give you false readings on angle of entry, so if that’s the case then ignore the angle and work with point of impact only. You also should be shooting more than one bare shaft and number them so you know which ones are giving you which results. You may need to twist the nocks a little at a time on some of them to get them all hitting and entering at the same angle. I would address the vertical issues first and if you’re as close as it sounds like you are, I would leave the cams alone so you keep your stops hitting simultaneously and bump the rest up slightly. It shouldn’t take much, maybe 1/32”-1/16”. Then if you’re still showing a nock right and the center shot looks good with the rest, add twists to the right yokes and remove from the left. I’d go 1/2 twist at a time if it’s as close as it sounds like it is. I think you’re very close with your tune. The inconsistency in angle of entry could also be form/grip related, it doesn’t take much to affect bare shaft flight.
 

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Discussion Starter · #152 ·
The adjustments you make for bare shafts are going to be the same adjustments you make for fixed blade broadheads. So I personally prefer to do as much of the tuning as I can shooting bare shafts, that way I minimize tearing up my broadhead target and time spent resharpening blades. It sounds like you’re getting a consistent point of impact with your bare shafts that would indicate a slight nock high/nock right. As far as the inconsistency in angle of entry, are you shooting at a foam target? A bag target will sometimes give you false readings on angle of entry, so if that’s the case then ignore the angle and work with point of impact only. You also should be shooting more than one bare shaft and number them so you know which ones are giving you which results. You may need to twist the nocks a little at a time on some of them to get them all hitting and entering at the same angle. I would address the vertical issues first and if you’re as close as it sounds like you are, I would leave the cams alone so you keep your stops hitting simultaneously and bump the rest up slightly. It shouldn’t take much, maybe 1/32”-1/16”. Then if you’re still showing a nock right and the center shot looks good with the rest, add twists to the right yokes and remove from the left. I’d go 1/2 twist at a time if it’s as close as it sounds like it is. I think you’re very close with your tune. The inconsistency in angle of entry could also be form/grip related, it doesn’t take much to affect bare shaft flight.
Yes I was shooting into a block range target.
I think i'm going to shoot for a few days and focus on my grip pressure, primarily my thumb. After a couple days I will do it again.
I will build another arrow Bare shaft arrow as well. All my paper tune shots were basically identical (8 total) compared to a little inconsistency shooting at the target. So i'm guessing that is the mental side of it. No need to focus on a dot when shooting through paper and can go through my routine correctly and smoothly which gives me a better release and a better performing arrow.
 

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Discussion Starter · #153 ·
Yes I was shooting into a block range target.
I think i'm going to shoot for a few days and focus on my grip pressure, primarily my thumb. After a couple days I will do it again.
I will build another arrow Bare shaft arrow as well. All my paper tune shots were basically identical (8 total) compared to a little inconsistency shooting at the target. So i'm guessing that is the mental side of it. No need to focus on a dot when shooting through paper and can go through my routine correctly and smoothly which gives me a better release and a better performing arrow.
The adjustments you make for bare shafts are going to be the same adjustments you make for fixed blade broadheads. So I personally prefer to do as much of the tuning as I can shooting bare shafts, that way I minimize tearing up my broadhead target and time spent resharpening blades. It sounds like you’re getting a consistent point of impact with your bare shafts that would indicate a slight nock high/nock right. As far as the inconsistency in angle of entry, are you shooting at a foam target? A bag target will sometimes give you false readings on angle of entry, so if that’s the case then ignore the angle and work with point of impact only. You also should be shooting more than one bare shaft and number them so you know which ones are giving you which results. You may need to twist the nocks a little at a time on some of them to get them all hitting and entering at the same angle. I would address the vertical issues first and if you’re as close as it sounds like you are, I would leave the cams alone so you keep your stops hitting simultaneously and bump the rest up slightly. It shouldn’t take much, maybe 1/32”-1/16”. Then if you’re still showing a nock right and the center shot looks good with the rest, add twists to the right yokes and remove from the left. I’d go 1/2 twist at a time if it’s as close as it sounds like it is. I think you’re very close with your tune. The inconsistency in angle of entry could also be form/grip related, it doesn’t take much to affect bare shaft flight.
Shot a bunch this weekend so I slapped on some broad heads and tested with my field points. At 30 yards they were hitting about 2" to the left so with bare shafts I would move my rest ever so slightly to the left to bring my broad head and field point groups together, right? But I was just reading a couple articles on it to confirm and they were stating if Broadheads group left, move rest right and if they group right then move rest left. But point of impact tuning for bare shaft is the opposite?
 

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Discussion Starter · #154 ·
The adjustments you make for bare shafts are going to be the same adjustments you make for fixed blade broadheads. So I personally prefer to do as much of the tuning as I can shooting bare shafts, that way I minimize tearing up my broadhead target and time spent resharpening blades. It sounds like you’re getting a consistent point of impact with your bare shafts that would indicate a slight nock high/nock right. As far as the inconsistency in angle of entry, are you shooting at a foam target? A bag target will sometimes give you false readings on angle of entry, so if that’s the case then ignore the angle and work with point of impact only. You also should be shooting more than one bare shaft and number them so you know which ones are giving you which results. You may need to twist the nocks a little at a time on some of them to get them all hitting and entering at the same angle. I would address the vertical issues first and if you’re as close as it sounds like you are, I would leave the cams alone so you keep your stops hitting simultaneously and bump the rest up slightly. It shouldn’t take much, maybe 1/32”-1/16”. Then if you’re still showing a nock right and the center shot looks good with the rest, add twists to the right yokes and remove from the left. I’d go 1/2 twist at a time if it’s as close as it sounds like it is. I think you’re very close with your tune. The inconsistency in angle of entry could also be form/grip related, it doesn’t take much to affect bare shaft flight.
You can disregard previous. Searched this forum and found a couple threads that confirmed that if broadheads are left, move rest left.
 

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You can disregard previous. Searched this forum and found a couple threads that confirmed that if broadheads are left, move rest left.
Yes, there is some dated misinformation out there about broadhead tuning that applies to finger shooters. It causes a lot of confusion. Moving the rest to the left is the correct adjustment for a broadhead hitting left of field points. Use very small adjustments, it usually doesn’t take much at all.
 

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Discussion Starter · #156 ·
Yes, there is some dated misinformation out there about broadhead tuning that applies to finger shooters. It causes a lot of confusion. Moving the rest to the left is the correct adjustment for a broadhead hitting left of field points. Use very small adjustments, it usually doesn’t take much at all.
So after getting good groups with my broad heads and FP out to 30 yds using a slight adjustment on the rest. Broadheads were about 2" left, moved rest left. After I got home I put it in my vise and took some measurements. Arrow is completely level but at the back of the riser the arrow is set at 13/16 but at the front of the riser its coming up center at 14/16 or 7/8". Should I just leave it as is and enjoy the rest of the summer or should I put it back to 13/16 all the way through and add 1/2 twist to right yoke and remove 1/2 twist from left?
 

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So after getting good groups with my broad heads and FP out to 30 yds using a slight adjustment on the rest. Broadheads were about 2" left, moved rest left. After I got home I put it in my vise and took some measurements. Arrow is completely level but at the back of the riser the arrow is set at 13/16 but at the front of the riser its coming up center at 14/16 or 7/8". Should I just leave it as is and enjoy the rest of the summer or should I put it back to 13/16 all the way through and add 1/2 twist to right yoke and remove 1/2 twist from left?
I wouldn’t want a crooked center shot. I would set the rest so the arrow is perfectly parallel at both ends with an arrow shaft held tight against the riser at the inside of the shelf. Sounds like that’s 13/16 on your bow. And yes, then yoke tune accordingly. The bow is going to be most efficient with the arrow running perfectly straight. Make sure you spin check your broadhead arrows, because any wobble in them will skew your results.
 

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Discussion Starter · #158 ·
I wouldn’t want a crooked center shot. I would set the rest so the arrow is perfectly parallel at both ends with an arrow shaft held tight against the riser at the inside of the shelf. Sounds like that’s 13/16 on your bow. And yes, then yoke tune accordingly. The bow is going to be most efficient with the arrow running perfectly straight. Make sure you spin check your broadhead arrows, because any wobble in them will skew your results.
Yep, broadheads were checked when they arrived a couple months ago. So just to make sure i'm correct. Once I move my rest back to the right. My broadhead should be hitting left again. I would add twists to right yoke and remove equal from left to bring that gap closer?
 

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Yep, broadheads were checked when they arrived a couple months ago. So just to make sure i'm correct. Once I move my rest back to the right. My broadhead should be hitting left again. I would add twists to right yoke and remove equal from left to bring that gap closer?
Yes . A broadhead that hits to the left of field points is the same as a nock right bare shaft. Get it as close as you can with a perfectly straight center shot using yoke adjustments, then sometimes you may still have to make a very small micro adjustment to the rest to finish it up if you get to the point that 1/2 twist either way is too much. You’ll most likely see that once you’re shooting your broadheads from a little further distance.
 

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Discussion Starter · #160 ·
Yes . A broadhead that hits to the left of field points is the same as a nock right bare shaft. Get it as close as you can with a perfectly straight center shot using yoke adjustments, then sometimes you may still have to make a very small micro adjustment to the rest to finish it up if you get to the point that 1/2 twist either way is too much. You’ll most likely see that once you’re shooting your broadheads from a little further distance.
If I add 1 twist to the right yoke for top and bottom will the timing stay the same or do I need to also remove twists from left yoke both top and bottom. I know if your just adjusting one cam you need to add and remove twists so it stays the same as far as draw stops are concerned. Just didn't know if I was adding on the top and bottom if it was necessary to remove twists on the opposite side as well.
 
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