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Discussion Starter #1
I am hoping someone can step in and shed some light on this.
I have tried to tune my DST40 like I have with my Hoyts (Yolk tune....put cam lean in to help bareshaft tune the arrows) Well I find that this just sucks as the draw stops have to be inline (straight up and down) or your cables can slip off the side of your draw stop. I just got fed up and started tuning the arrow to the bow. Took alot of time playing with weights and arrow length but better results and did not have to play with cables. Bow is set up perfectly no lean at all. Just needed a slight bit of creep tune and get used to the bow...
So how is everyone else tuning their DST's? Cant have much cam lean in them...I know they fling out a variety of spined arrows like darts but bareshafting is a diff story.

Clay
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Tail left...and hitting left of the target.
I have been trying to switch to carbon arrows but went back to aluminums (2314'S) and had a tune within 20mins. Just find the carbons not so forgiving compared to the aluminums.
Not too mention getting a set of spine matched carbon arrows is a royal pain.
 

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Shooting bareshafts...with any bow...need a bit better than average form, reading and interpreting the signs of impact without knowing your shooting skill is thankless, to start with. If there is any inconsistency in your form both bareshaft and papertune will just lead you to a bigger mess...
FYI I don't do papertuning and I can shoot bareshaft to 50 meters with my hootershooter, with my best spine match target arrows and hitting right from fletched about 10 inches two a clock and this really doesn't bother me....btw Im shooting thousand plus arrows a week....
Can you tell me please what and how did you setup your DST, what rest and how did you mount it, have you creep tuned or eventually french tuned (I believe no french tuning needed on the DST....) ? And why would you want to do bareshaft tuning? No offence, just a question please pm....
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I have Creep tuned with good success. Have not French Tuned....dont know how to. Have to check that out.
I have Bareshaft tuned my Aluminums and been able to smash X's unfletched.
I have a ProTuner Verticlick rest with my arrows running as close to the shelf (below the berger holes) as possible. I dont really paper tune any more. I can tell I get tail left as it leaves a distinct mark on the blade of the rest. I am starting to think the carbon arrows I set up are just too damn stiff now that I am thinking about it more. Thought I would be able to spine them out but I think I am just being my own worst enemy being stubborn to make it work. Have to go down to a lighter spine I think.
FYI was trying to spine out BEA Challenger 250's for indoor FITA. Have to down to a 300spine I think.
 

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Here is what I did:

Out of box bow. Check and adjust draw weight. Check tiller. Check and adjust draw length. Check timing and leave it at factory setting (bowstring completely sitting in the groove on the cam). Check cam sync (both stops hitting at same time). Check and adjust cam lean (zero cam lean at brace both cams).

Than put the rest on. Eyeball centershot ( middle of the shoot-through riser). Using N&B table method for setting nock level to bowstring. Arrow crossing berger holes and level to bowstring.

Target at shoulder height, hanging string of dacron material. 3 yards shooting fletched arrow to split string tweaking only sight windage. Needed like 10min to do it.
Next 3 yards shooting bareshaft to confirm draw length. Hit the same hole as fletched but did not split the string. Only touched.

Next 20 yards shooting fletched. Moving rest to hit the bullseye.

So far I tuned centershot,rest height, sight windage. Than need to tune vertical and horizontal nock travel using bareshaft.

Target at shoulder height 20 yards. Fletched bullseye. Bareshaft way low and left. So added 1 full twist to top cam to make top drawstop to hit little bit after bottom drawstop. Result: bareshaft hitting same height as fletched but still left. Little bit less but still left. Removed half twist of top axle left side and bottom axle left side.
Now bareshafts hitting little bit to the right. So I backed up bottom axle, I added half twist back and left top axle untouched. Result: bareshaft and fletched have same POI.

Now I am playing with stance,grip and stabilizers to fine tune groups.


P.S.: before I took first shot of the bow,I used OnTarget2 to match my arrows to the bow. Using FatBoys 400. OnTarget result was like 406,so pretty close.
All I needed was to remove half twist top axle left side and creep tune with 1 full twist on top cam.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Took me 30min to get my X7 2314's to tune and according to OT2 that is the perfect spine. This is using the Large cams but on OT2 it refers the small cams on a DST40 as Extra Hard....is there really that much of a difference? Just wondering if anyone is using the small cams and has also used the large cams can chime in and give a comparison. I was thinking it would just be a bit faster with a slight bit more aggressive but should still be able to use the same arrows you would for the Large cams just have to decrease DW# slightly. Or is it that much of a difference?
 

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How do I adjust the draw weight on a 2013 DST 40? It has 50-60# limbs and I need as low as possible because of back issues. Thanks.
 

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