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Im far from being any kind of expert, but things like A2A, BH, ect are set as spec at the max lbs I believe. But, If you shoot it at a lower weight, you want to have the bow tuned at your DW.
I agree. I always tune my bows at the poundage and specs I'm shooting.Im far from being any kind of expert, but things like A2A, BH, ect are set as spec at the max lbs I believe. But, If you shoot it at a lower weight, you want to have the bow tuned at your DW.
A2A will change a little with DW reduction, as will BH and tiller. I backed my 60lb bow down from 60 to about 54lbs and my A2A went from 32 5/8" to 32 1/2", and BH got about 1/8" higher. Very small changes.Would the ata be the same at a lower draw weight? It seems like the ata would be shorter when the weight is turned down.
Nope.By what I`ve seen and heard you bring the bow to your draw weight before you tune it.
correctBy what I`ve seen and heard you bring the bow to your draw weight before you tune it.
x2....tune the bow maxed out then set it up at your preferred draw weight.
Thats all I can think, the angle of the limbs. Like I said, it was very slight, 1/8", and BH and Tiller got slightly longer, and by slightly, I mean about 1/4 of the width of my string, also probably because of the limb angle and the slight cam rotation. Maxed out, my bottom cam timing mark showed the limb dead center of the 2 marks, after backing it down, the rotated about 3/8", but my stops still hit on time.blacktailbryan to what do you contribute the 1/8 in. shrinkage? surely the strings and cables don't come back.....must be the slight limb angle change.
Partially correct. The cams will stay the same as long as the tiller remains even. But the tiller will change as will the brace height and axle to axle which can result in the nock height differences you are reffering to. The draw length will also get longer assuming you are turning the bow down. Is it something to worry about? In my opinion, no.Guys, if you time your cam(s) at full draw and max poundage (like you should), then turn down the poundage to what you want it to be, the cams(s)will remain in time. About the only thing that has a possibilty of changing (depending on low you turn down the poundage) would be the nock height. But do it how you want.......
Here is the right answer.We should all be a little more specific and define what we mean by "tune". If I read your first post right your refering to timing, tiller, brace, etc. These are all factory specs and should be set with the bow maxed out. The reall "tuning" as far as I'm concerned should be done at the draw weight you intend to shoot. This includes synchronizing the cams, arrow spine and cutting, paper tuning, braodhead tuning, and otherwise getting the arrow coming out of the bow a straight and cocnsistant as possible. Remember also that factory specs are recomendations and don't need to be dead on.
Baldy is right on with this answer....We should all be a little more specific and define what we mean by "tune". If I read your first post right your refering to timing, tiller, brace, etc. These are all factory specs and should be set with the bow maxed out. The reall "tuning" as far as I'm concerned should be done at the draw weight you intend to shoot. This includes synchronizing the cams, arrow spine and cutting, paper tuning, braodhead tuning, and otherwise getting the arrow coming out of the bow a straight and cocnsistant as possible. Remember also that factory specs are recomendations and don't need to be dead on.