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Bow tuning question

1452 Views 22 Replies 15 Participants Last post by  BlacktailBryan
Should all tuning and timing to a bow be done at max draw weight? Such as ata, tiller, and cam timing. I normally shoot my bows with the draw weight turned down and wanted to know if tuning and timing a bow at a lower weight would make a difference. Thanks for any help.
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Im far from being any kind of expert, but things like A2A, BH, ect are set as spec at the max lbs I believe. But, If you shoot it at a lower weight, you want to have the bow tuned at your DW.
 

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Im far from being any kind of expert, but things like A2A, BH, ect are set as spec at the max lbs I believe. But, If you shoot it at a lower weight, you want to have the bow tuned at your DW.
I agree. I always tune my bows at the poundage and specs I'm shooting.
 

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Would the ata be the same at a lower draw weight? It seems like the ata would be shorter when the weight is turned down.
A2A will change a little with DW reduction, as will BH and tiller. I backed my 60lb bow down from 60 to about 54lbs and my A2A went from 32 5/8" to 32 1/2", and BH got about 1/8" higher. Very small changes.
 

· Tooth, Fang, Claw
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Do all of your tuning at the bow's max draw weight, but just don't set you nock height yet. Once you get everything timed, then turn down the poundage where you want it, then set your nock height. Specs will change a little (if any), but not nearly enough to disrupt the tune job.
 

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We should all be a little more specific and define what we mean by "tune". If I read your first post right your refering to timing, tiller, brace, etc. These are all factory specs and should be set with the bow maxed out. The reall "tuning" as far as I'm concerned should be done at the draw weight you intend to shoot. This includes synchronizing the cams, arrow spine and cutting, paper tuning, braodhead tuning, and otherwise getting the arrow coming out of the bow a straight and cocnsistant as possible. Remember also that factory specs are recomendations and don't need to be dead on.
 

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blacktailbryan to what do you contribute the 1/8 in. shrinkage? surely the strings and cables don't come back.....must be the slight limb angle change.
Thats all I can think, the angle of the limbs. Like I said, it was very slight, 1/8", and BH and Tiller got slightly longer, and by slightly, I mean about 1/4 of the width of my string, also probably because of the limb angle and the slight cam rotation. Maxed out, my bottom cam timing mark showed the limb dead center of the 2 marks, after backing it down, the rotated about 3/8", but my stops still hit on time.
 

· Tooth, Fang, Claw
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Guys, if you time your cam(s) at full draw and max poundage (like you should), then turn down the poundage to what you want it to be, the cams(s)will remain in time. About the only thing that has a possibilty of changing (depending on low you turn down the poundage) would be the nock height. But do it how you want.......
 

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Guys, if you time your cam(s) at full draw and max poundage (like you should), then turn down the poundage to what you want it to be, the cams(s)will remain in time. About the only thing that has a possibilty of changing (depending on low you turn down the poundage) would be the nock height. But do it how you want.......
Partially correct. The cams will stay the same as long as the tiller remains even. But the tiller will change as will the brace height and axle to axle which can result in the nock height differences you are reffering to. The draw length will also get longer assuming you are turning the bow down. Is it something to worry about? In my opinion, no.

I bring it to specs at max poundage like you should, because that is where the specifications were set at. Then adjust for draw weight and draw length (I twist the string to keep the draw length the same) then I set the bow up and tune it.
 

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We should all be a little more specific and define what we mean by "tune". If I read your first post right your refering to timing, tiller, brace, etc. These are all factory specs and should be set with the bow maxed out. The reall "tuning" as far as I'm concerned should be done at the draw weight you intend to shoot. This includes synchronizing the cams, arrow spine and cutting, paper tuning, braodhead tuning, and otherwise getting the arrow coming out of the bow a straight and cocnsistant as possible. Remember also that factory specs are recomendations and don't need to be dead on.
Here is the right answer.
 

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I have always tuned and shot my bows maxxed out on poundage so I don't have any experience with this. I would guess though, that one could tune a dual cam bow at full poundage and back off the limb bolts the same amount and not have to reset the nock height. With a single cam bow, I would guess that you would have to reset the nock height because the size of the idler wheel and the cam are different. I might be 100% wrong, just thinking and making a guess? I will have to lower my draw weight and see if the nock height changes to find out. Good thread by the way!
 

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We should all be a little more specific and define what we mean by "tune". If I read your first post right your refering to timing, tiller, brace, etc. These are all factory specs and should be set with the bow maxed out. The reall "tuning" as far as I'm concerned should be done at the draw weight you intend to shoot. This includes synchronizing the cams, arrow spine and cutting, paper tuning, braodhead tuning, and otherwise getting the arrow coming out of the bow a straight and cocnsistant as possible. Remember also that factory specs are recomendations and don't need to be dead on.
Baldy is right on with this answer....
 
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