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Discussion Starter #1
I have an 80 l# PSE expedite and I am trying to tune in 880 grain arrow. Here’s my dilemma, when I shoot a bare shaft and get it shooting bullet holes at 20 yards. Then put a fletched arrow on, and wind up getting a straight left tear. I move the rest to the right and the tear never changes in length of tear to the left. However, when I switch back to my bare shaft and try shooting it again, of course, I have a wide right tear (which I expected). No matter how I move the rest, with the fletched arrows, I get a nock left tear.

Here is what I have looked at so far:

Timing: correct

Distance from center shot: minimal

Arrows: all spin true and I am using the same nocks

Clearance: I am using low profile vanes and I have a mile of clearance.

Handgrip: I am using the Garmin sight so I can verify that the handgrip isn’t changing from shot to shot.

Any suggestions? My frustration is mounting with this bow. I appreciate you all!


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Is the broadhead steering the arrow since your shooting such low profile vanes.
 

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I have an 80 l# PSE expedite and I am trying to tune in 880 grain arrow. Here’s my dilemma, when I shoot a bare shaft and get it shooting bullet holes at 20 yards. Then put a fletched arrow on, and wind up getting a straight left tear. I move the rest to the right and the tear never changes in length of tear to the left. However, when I switch back to my bare shaft and try shooting it again, of course, I have a wide right tear (which I expected). No matter how I move the rest, with the fletched arrows, I get a nock left tear.

Here is what I have looked at so far:

Timing: correct

Distance from center shot: minimal

Arrows: all spin true and I am using the same nocks

Clearance: I am using low profile vanes and I have a mile of clearance.

Handgrip: I am using the Garmin sight so I can verify that the handgrip isn’t changing from shot to shot.

Any suggestions? My frustration is mounting with this bow. I appreciate you all!


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What are you moving to get the bullet hole at 20 yards?
What draw length?
What spine arrow?
How much tip weight?
 

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Having a perfect bare shaft at 20yds and undesirable result with anything else is something I’ve never experienced other than maybe a super small tweak to a broadhead at 50+


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Having a perfect bare shaft at 20yds and undesirable result with anything else is something I’ve never experienced other than maybe a super small tweak to a broadhead at 50+


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Me either
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Set center shot and then shim both cams to the left. left side 1-.020 shim, rt side 2-.020shims and 1 med. -.060 or so.
I had to move one shim left so my configuration in shims is left side (2) thin, Right side, (1) medium. It came from the factory with (1) thin left and (1) thin and (1) medium right. I could not get rid of the hard right tear and that is why I had to move one shim to the left. Now both top and bottom cams are neutral instead of both being negative. Does that make sense?


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Are they grouping is my first question? I'm not the best at microtuning, but I always look at the group 1st !
 

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No comparison- but the pse I used 2 years was a drive Lt , a 2014 model, through paper it wasn't much, but looking at the 50 yrd groups it was a winner!
 

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Bare shaft bullet holes at 20yds but fletched tears at 20? At that distance fletch should have straightened by then... How are BS and fletched grouping at 20 or even 30yds? And is this multiple bare shafts and fletched, or one of each or what?
 

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Contact with an ill timed rest maybe?
I have not checked that yet. Maybe that is the issue. Thank you for the suggestion.


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That's about the only thing it could be. That or fletching contact on the cables, not likely with low profile vanes but not impossible either.
 

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If the bare shaft is a bullet its not arrow flight - I'd look for vane contact or similar issues.
 

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The Impartial Archer
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Just to be fair it has nothing to do with the arrows weight. It's just a different arrow. You would have that issue if you went up or down in arrow weight. It's about spine and tuning.......not the weight.

Your post should just say I switched arrows and need help tuning the new ones. It might mislead people into thinking heavier arrows or lighter arrows tune easier......
 

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Just to be fair it has nothing to do with the arrows weight. It's just a different arrow. You would have that issue if you went up or down in arrow weight. It's about spine and tuning.......not the weight.

Your post should just say I switched arrows and need help tuning the new ones. It might mislead people into thinking heavier arrows or lighter arrows tune easier......
destroy the heavy arrow agenda. Light arrows matter.
 

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wolfey
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Try nock tuning the fletched arrow and see what happens.
 

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Jim Beam Apple, Mathews, Jim Beam Apple
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[/QUOTE]

destroy the heavy arrow agenda. Light arrows matter.[/QUOTE]

So sad......heavy arrows matter too 😔😔😔 LOL
 
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