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Discussion Starter #1
what's the best way to adjust a bow's cam orientation? i've got a pse bowmandess mc and the setup guide says that the cam timing marks should line up when the string is set to the "." post on the cam. my bow is set on the "-" mark, and if i set it back to "." the marks dont line up.

how do i adjust this? i assume i should lengthen/shorten the string and/or cable, but which one in which direction?
 

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Discussion Starter #2
clarification

basically, how do i adjust single cam orientation (ie, rotating the cam either backward or forward when at rest)?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
ttt
 

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when you have it on the normal settings instead of a - or + you need to take into account the string twists of the cable vs the draw string. for the draw string you have a little more fine tuning ability since 1 twist is equal to about a 1/2 twist on the buss cable.

when on the normal settings and the limbs at the peak weight settings of .200 inches from the riser what is your draw weight? adding twists to the string will decrease your draw weight and taking twists out will add draw weight, while adding twists to the buss cable will add draw weight and letting twists out will decrease draw weight. factoring all of these things is how to determine the best way to get "on the marks" if you have a draw force mapper then you should tune according to that or based on nock travel for best accuracy (going to the minus post should be just like a partial draw for nock travel)

with an aggressive cam like the BM (for a single cam) your draw force should ramp up to peak draw weight and hold it there in a flat line until letoff for a bow that is perfectly tuned.

hope this helps,
later
jkeiffer
 

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This, is the way it works;

If you lengthen the string, and/or shorten the cable, it ******s the cam. ******ing the cam, increases draw weight AND draw length.

If you shorten the string and/or lengthen the cable, it advances the cam. Advancing the cam, reduces draw weight AND draw length.

All the timing marks are for, is to indicate that when the axle-to-axle length is at specs, and the cam is in this position, it will provide the advertised draw weight and draw length, to match the modular setting, or the draw length, stamped on the side of a DL specific cam.

When you adjust cam timing there is ALWAYS a "butterfly effect". It will change more than just one of the final measurements.

As long as you are aware of what else changed, and can correct for it, you don't have to have the timing marks line up.
 

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Article on tuning a Bow Madness. It started off as a pivot bushing repair thread and migrated to lots of other stuff.

http://www.archerytalk.com/vb/showthread.php?t=971319

Includes checking BH, Tiller, ATA, and cam timing. Cam timing should be a tad bit aggressive for better performance.

-Steve
 

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On my bmxl the draw lenght was a little too long at (29")i moved the string back to minus(-) post and tried that. Then i tried shortening the draw by moving to the module to the "c" postion and then moving the string to the plus(+) post. I felt that this way with the draw lenght on the plus post with cam in "c" postion felt alot smoother than the 1st way i tried it. I did adjust the cable to sit in between the tuning marks on the cam also. The bow feels super smooth and shoots great!
 
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