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I have a really long draw length at 33". I shoot 80lbs-90lbs. I am running GAS Ghost strings with no dyes or colors.

And I'm STILL ALWAYS having nightmare peep rotation after about 300-400 shots.

Has anyone had any real practice with the peep tuner from Bowmar?

The Bowmar products always cause some controversy, but I am at a point where I don't know what else to do. 99% of the time throwing a "twist in the string" is how people see fit to fix this. With slight rotation when the string is setting, putting a 1/2 to at most 1 twist in the string I think won't hurt. But, the usual remedy is to just put an unlimited number of twists in the string to correct this, and all this does is hit your poundage and really mess with your draw length, especially after multiple twists.

I've even noticed that this aggressive method putting twists in the string will usually always work for a few moderate practice sessions, but it just starts twisting again after 100 or so shots and worse than before.

Anyone with any advice on this or someone with a lot of practice with peep tuner would be much appreciated.
 

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Socket Man
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Do yourself a favor and just learn how to Train Your Peep.

I have been doing this for years and it works really good for me compared to all the other methods I have done over the last 40 or so years. Basically right now you know what angle your peep needs to be at before you draw the bow and if it is right there as you draw it will be perfect when you settle into the shot. So we are going to train the peep to be right there.

So

Grab your peep and twist it around 3 full rotations and then hold it there for about 2 minutes and then unwind it and when you get done and have let go of the peep it will be about a half turn from being back so now help it back to that magical angle that guarantees you that your peep will be good when you are at full draw.

Now

Shoot for 15 or so minutes and the moment that your peep is not lining up anymore repeat doing the 3 full rotations and holding it there for 2 minutes.
 

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Socket Man
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Overall during the first week or so you will have to repeat the process of training your peep a few times and then it will be 3 weeks before it needs it again and then it will be a few months, I think the longest my peep has held perfect position is about 6 or so months of heavy shooting. The key here is to never to do those little twists before each shot just to fix it for the one shot, that doesn't help at all. Simply do the train your peep process each and every time doing the 3 full rotations and you are good to go.
 

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I recently stumbled upon a gamne changer for me....My recent bow setup I ditched the serving above and below the peep and just tied the peep in. For me it was a night and day difference. I tied it in with half hitches on each side and it is rock solid and hasn't moved or twisted at all after months of shooting.

I used to serve it in really tight and it was always a nightmare to get it stable, so it could be the way you tied it in.
 

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(aka lug nut)
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I recently stumbled upon a gamne changer for me....My recent bow setup I ditched the serving above and below the peep and just tied the peep in. For me it was a night and day difference. I tied it in with half hitches on each side and it is rock solid and hasn't moved or twisted at all after months of shooting.

I used to serve it in really tight and it was always a nightmare to get it stable, so it could be the way you tied it in.


Peep on the left is tied into the bowstring, by using the groove around the outside of the peep.
You can see the NATURAL size of the triangle above and below the peep.

Peep on the right, has the triangles CRUSHED, cuz the fella put in LOTS and LOTS of serving
to CRUSH the triangles SUPER SHORT, to make sure that the peep DOn't MOVE.

Well, the peep DOES move, it rotates like crazy...when you serving the peep above and below, and CRUSH the triangles. Don't matter HOW much you spend on custom bowstrings, if you serve the peep above and below to CRUSH the triangles, you just CREATED peep rotation. Not the fault of the bowstring maker.



If you just GOTTA serve in the peep,
serve ONE LEG of the upper triangle
and
serve ONE LEG of the lower triangle. DO not CRUSH the triangles above and below the peep. THEN, your pricey custom bowstring, that had ZERO peep rotation before you installed the peep, will still have ZERO peep rotation,
after you serve ONE LEG of the upper triangle on the bowstring above the peep,
and
after you serve ONE LEG of the lower triangle on the bowstring below the peep.
 

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Mathews Traverse
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Peep on the left is tied into the bowstring, by using the groove around the outside of the peep.
You can see the NATURAL size of the triangle above and below the peep.

Peep on the right, has the triangles CRUSHED, cuz the fella put in LOTS and LOTS of serving
to CRUSH the triangles SUPER SHORT, to make sure that the peep DOn't MOVE.

Well, the peep DOES move, it rotates like crazy...when you serving the peep above and below, and CRUSH the triangles. Don't matter HOW much you spend on custom bowstrings, if you serve the peep above and below to CRUSH the triangles, you just CREATED peep rotation. Not the fault of the bowstring maker.



If you just GOTTA serve in the peep,
serve ONE LEG of the upper triangle
and
serve ONE LEG of the lower triangle. DO not CRUSH the triangles above and below the peep. THEN, your pricey custom bowstring, that had ZERO peep rotation before you installed the peep, will still have ZERO peep rotation,
after you serve ONE LEG of the upper triangle on the bowstring above the peep,
and
after you serve ONE LEG of the lower triangle on the bowstring below the peep.
Although not necessarily true all the time. Its not an automatic peep twister if you do. You can be very successful "crushing" the triangles and still not have rotation. I have done it for many years, I just don't anymore because it's just one less step.
 

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(aka lug nut)
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Although not necessarily true all the time. Its not an automatic peep twister if you do. You can be very successful "crushing" the triangles and still not have rotation. I have done it for many years, I just don't anymore because it's just one less step.
If you CRUSH both triangles equally, then, the extra twist pressure will be equal above and below the peep.
If you CRUSH the upper and lower triangles different amounts, then, the twist pressure goes un-equal, and you end up with peep rotation. So, sure...it's POSSIBLE to have zero peep rotation, by crushing the triangles above and below the peep. When a Newbie, complains about massive peep rotation, it's cuz they served the bowstring above and below the peep, and then, tried twisting one end of the bowstring...in one case, endlessly, and the peep rotation went massive.
 

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Peep on the left is tied into the bowstring, by using the groove around the outside of the peep.
You can see the NATURAL size of the triangle above and below the peep.

Peep on the right, has the triangles CRUSHED, cuz the fella put in LOTS and LOTS of serving
to CRUSH the triangles SUPER SHORT, to make sure that the peep DOn't MOVE.

Well, the peep DOES move, it rotates like crazy...when you serving the peep above and below, and CRUSH the triangles. Don't matter HOW much you spend on custom bowstrings, if you serve the peep above and below to CRUSH the triangles, you just CREATED peep rotation. Not the fault of the bowstring maker.



If you just GOTTA serve in the peep,
serve ONE LEG of the upper triangle
and
serve ONE LEG of the lower triangle. DO not CRUSH the triangles above and below the peep. THEN, your pricey custom bowstring, that had ZERO peep rotation before you installed the peep, will still have ZERO peep rotation,
after you serve ONE LEG of the upper triangle on the bowstring above the peep,
and
after you serve ONE LEG of the lower triangle on the bowstring below the peep.
As Brutus mentioned, this is not correct. Just "crushing the triangle" doesn't cause peep rotation. Not having the serving the same distance from the peep "can" cause it, but even then it isn't always the case.
 

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As Brutus mentioned, this is not correct. Just "crushing the triangle" doesn't cause peep rotation. Not having the serving the same distance from the peep "can" cause it, but even then it isn't always the case.

Not saying your wrong or he's right but my empirical evidence has changed my mind, I used to purposely make (crush) small triangles in an effort to avoid my peep sliding out of place, I was always wrestling with my peep rotation.

Now I tie in a similar fashion to how Nuts&Bolts has shown and my peep is still hasn't moved what so ever and has perfect alignment all the way through my draw cycle.

So at this point I'm a convert because I don't really seen a good reason for serving above and below the peep.
 

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Gave it a try on my last setup. worked for a while. Ended up still having to fiddle with it throughout the rounds. Turns out my string was wearing out and starting to stretch. The peep tuner is also kinda hard on strings because it has no give or squish to it so it will fuzz the string as the strands move around it over time. Chris's Bee uses a piece of d-loop above the peep to mitigate peep rotation. Just got a new bow over the winter and was starting to fight peep rotation after the strings settled in. Took it to a tech and had a half twist put into the string to take out the peep twist and it seems to be fine. If I have issues in a thousand shots or so I'll prolly go with the d-loop material this time just to compare.

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i just use a thick piece of rubber about 1/2 inch or a little less square,cut groves in it put it in the middle of the string and you got a peep tuner, there are a lot of diy ways to make a peep tuner to spend money on one is a waste
 

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Not saying your wrong or he's right but my empirical evidence has changed my mind, I used to purposely make (crush) small triangles in an effort to avoid my peep sliding out of place, I was always wrestling with my peep rotation.

Now I tie in a similar fashion to how Nuts&Bolts has shown and my peep is still hasn't moved what so ever and has perfect alignment all the way through my draw cycle.

So at this point I'm a convert because I don't really seen a good reason for serving above and below the peep.
I don't and never have tied tight (crushed) peeps. I also don not think it is necessary. But, I have tied in peeps similar to what you are talking about and still had to work with the peep. All of my bows have the peep in a very specific spot, and the peep does not always align perfectly. It's not that they move, or aligned at first then rotate, it's just that the twist in the string isn't exact for where the peep needs to be. I either tie one of the triangles a little smaller than the other to rotate it(if I tie them in above and below the peep), or put a piece of loop material in the string above the peep, if I just tie the peep and lock it in. Always works for me, and once it's in and set, it doesn't need messed with again.
 

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For those that use para cord or D loop, do you tie it in some how? Or just clip it short? Do you mushroom the ends?
you dont need much so no need to tie anything. Just burn the ends so it stays together when you slide it. Doesnt have to be d loop material. A string leach will work the same way. Like others have mentioned the way the peep is tied does matter. A good quality string and a twist here and there and it should be fine. Me personally, I would go to great lengths to avoid supporting the Bowmars, but thats me.
 

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So funny. So many of you on here will crap all over Bowmar for making these products, which are admittedly easy to create/recreate, while no one is even suggesting you should buy the product if you have no need.

I don’t want to screw around DIY ing some half ass solution to a problem that could be fixed with
But you keep doing you!


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