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styger
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Discussion Starter #1
I shot the 350 on Friday and the 340 arrived today. The 350 bottomed at 71.8 and the 340 71.7. Both are set at 29 inch draw. I shot a 370 grain arrow at 327 with the 350 and 319 with the 340. The 350 was very quiet and dead at the shot and I was expecting more of the same from the 340. However, the 340 had a slight kick with the bottom cam and a small resinating vibration after the shot like others have been commenting about on these bows. Nothing major but noticeably different than the 350. I checked the timing marks on the 340 and though both cables were between the timing dots, one was centered and the other was more towards one of the dots. Based on the differing comments from shooters and the 350 being deader than the 340 that I shot, which seems counter intuitive. I am going to time the cams perfectly on the 340 and see if it shoots more like the 350. I am pretty sure that this will be the case but will find out for sure soon. I was leaning towards the 340 based on the fact that I have a 30" draw but need it to shoot like the 350 that I shot. For others that have shot both how did they compare? Also, for those of you that own one, how are they tuning? I'm guessing it's going to take a number of twists to the cable to make much of a difference in timing.
 

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The timing marks are for the average person, we have a 340 and the draw stop's are not in sync when you draw the bow back, it gives you a sense of spongy wall feeling, but the timing marks are in sinc :confused: We have an idea to set the draw stops to touch at the same time and see if it works :noidea: ... My CAPTAIN is off by one whole dot on the timimg marks, but it shoots perfect holes and the cams are in sync :wink: ....
 

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styger
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Discussion Starter #3
Understood, whatever it takes to get the stops to touch at the same time. I mostly want to know how much the shooting characteristics change when it is perfectly in time.
 

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Pretend the dots aren't there. Get the stops hitting at exactly the same time and you'll be good to go. The dots would be useful only if you knew that the two limbs were absolutely 100% identical in every way, which is a level of precision that would carry astronomical costs for any company. A half twist may make a major difference, so I would only change it a half twist at a time.
 

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I'm not sure :dontknow: , didn't shoot it before sync of cams...

All I have is my CAPTAIN's numbers...
27 1/2 Draw Length
71# Draw weight
430 gr arrow, 28" EASTON 340 A/C/C Pro, w/ 100gr tip, 2" blazers, half wrap total
280 Feet Per Second
Solid 74# Kinetic Energy

It took about 5 minutes to paper tune and shoots awsome :wink:, sorry I didn't take time to see and/or feel what the difference was between the set-up's :embara: ...
 

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I've shot both and bought a 340. Like you I'm a 30 inch draw.The 340 had a bottom cam lean out of box and was not a quiet or pleasant to shoot as the 350. The dealer added a few twists to the split cables to correct the lean and it felt just like the 350. My 340 tuned in a breeze and after shooting it alot for almost 2 weeks, I'm very pleased, especially at 60-70 yards. I'm a hunter and no Reo Wilde, but I can honestly say I shoot this bow better and more consistantly than any I've had, which is a bunch!:)
 

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styger
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Discussion Starter #8
Thanks for the information. I did not look to see if it had any lean or not. Didn't even think about it. Nice to have yokes though, huh.
 

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Thanks for the information. I did not look to see if it had any lean or not. Didn't even think about it. Nice to have yokes though, huh.
I've shot both quite a bit. My feeling is the same as yours minus the kick on the 340. I haven't noticed that. The after shot vibration on the 340 is more noticeable because the FLX guard is longer and resonates longer. That is where it is coming from.
 

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styger
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Discussion Starter #10
Something else I did not notice was the length of the flx guard being longer. Obviously with the riser geometry this would make sense. I'll check this out as well. Finally, usefull helpful information on AT.
 

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Something else I did not notice was the length of the flx guard being longer. Obviously with the riser geometry this would make sense. I'll check this out as well. Finally, usefull helpful information on AT.
Take the bow and flip the FLX guard and you'll notice that it resonates. It is definitely where the "vibration" is coming from that everyone is noticing. I'm gonna try some sort of vibration dampner on it and see if it helps.
 

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Take the bow and flip the FLX guard and you'll notice that it resonates. It is definitely where the "vibration" is coming from that everyone is noticing. I'm gonna try some sort of vibration dampner on it and see if it helps.
Yeah, I bet you could slap one of those mini-limbsavers on the FLX guard itself and it would go away, or at least reduce it a lot. I'll be curious to find out how that works.

Oh, mainly because I just ordered a 340 about an hour ago! :rock-on:
 

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Yes it works....Put a limbsaver on a 340 a couple days ago and it made a noticeable difference. Not gone, but better
 
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