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Discussion Starter #1
Just a little advise so take it for what it’s worth.
I have had quite a few people asking me if I’m seeing bad wear on the SR6. The answer would be no and here’s why.

These bows tune best with cams darn near parallel of aimstring for pre lean setting. In this position you will not encounter excessive wear on your end loops and cable end servings. This set in the pic is my personal with factory strings still on them.

You will however encounter problems with wear if you try and tune so pre lean is more in line with OD cam bows in the past.

Good luck guys and gals, the SR6 is a sweet shooter







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Maybe the camera angle - but judging by the tuning dots looks like your cam timing is a little out - good tip on the cam lean
 

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Maybe the camera angle - but judging by the tuning dots looks like your cam timing is a little out - good tip on the cam lean
Those timing dots are just a quick reference. Every bowtech I’ve ever had they won’t fall in between the dots. 1. Do to draw length and 2., I will time using a draw board at full draw. Bareshaft and broadhead tuning are more important for tuning then the reference dots.

Nice work Ontarget7 Thst bow deff has my eye. Wanna see what they release this winter then just maybe I will replace one of the invasions with one.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Maybe the camera angle - but judging by the tuning dots looks like your cam timing is a little out - good tip on the cam lean




Camera angle is off as well, you can even tell in the pic that it’s two complete different angles

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Discussion Starter #5
Those timing dots are just a quick reference. Every bowtech I’ve ever had they won’t fall in between the dots. 1. Do to draw length and 2., I will time using a draw board at full draw. Bareshaft and broadhead tuning are more important for tuning then the reference dots.

Nice work Ontarget7 Thst bow deff has my eye. Wanna see what they release this winter then just maybe I will replace one of the invasions with one.




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Good tip- Just curious what bow you are ending up with? I know the Evoke was high up the list but see these SR6 and Vertix were also tried. I have been going back and forth between my Evoke 31 and SR6. Think I like the way the Evoke handles for hunts but the SR6 is a sweet shooter. Just chunky if that makes sense...
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Good tip- Just curious what bow you are ending up with? I know the Evoke was high up the list but see these SR6 and Vertix were also tried. I have been going back and forth between my Evoke 31 and SR6. Think I like the way the Evoke handles for hunts but the SR6 is a sweet shooter. Just chunky if that makes sense...
I’m back and forth between both those bows as well.
My only complaint on the Evoke is the grip angle forces my hand up a little to snug below the grip shelf. My thumb knuckle can get a little callus or irritated you might say over long periods of shooting.

No complaints on the SR6 and I may shoot it day in and day out a touch better.

Both great bows !


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Thats funny-- my only gripe on the Evoke as well. I have gotten a blister there when shooting events like the TAC.
 

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Those timing dots are just a quick reference. Every bowtech I’ve ever had they won’t fall in between the dots. 1. Do to draw length and 2., I will time using a draw board at full draw. Bareshaft and broadhead tuning are more important for tuning then the reference dots.

Nice work Ontarget7 Thst bow deff has my eye. Wanna see what they release this winter then just maybe I will replace one of the invasions with one.
I agree my top cam is always in between the dots and bottom is always lower then bottom for and I always have my top cam advanced just a smidge I mean very very very little like piece of paper little is what has worked for me!


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Copy that


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Discussion Starter #11
We are gelling together well

Bareshaft and fletched to 20 yards with perfect entry is all I really do. Past that it’s more honing in on form consistencies. Once we go past 20 this is where I feel some get mislead and start making more adjustments. Back to 20 yards is the critical path you might say with tuning bareshafts to fletched and entry being spot on. Some start making adjustment past that, and you end up fudging your tune and chasing your tail. After all, if a bareshaft is on a straight path to 20 yards it’s not going to all of a sudden veer off coarse unless our form is having some inconsistencies.

Don’t get much time these days but for kicks I wanted to check out to 40 yards. I’m thinking the SR6 and I are getting along well




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SR6 sales up 11%.....

Nice shooting brother.
 

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I find that every single sr6 I tune does not like cam lean & RH bows always need the right yoke twisted up to achieve perfect centershot & bulletholes. Also to those that don’t work on bows all day long the Timing Dots on cams 95% of the time are in different locations top to bottom & in perfect time at fulldraw


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Ima ask a stupid question as I know what I do but want to know what others do on a Bowtech.

Say you shoot close range in the house and get a bullet hole fletched and bare shaft.

Then say you go back to 20 yards, do you make sure you are shooting level? Can you shoot down? Up? Or do you shoot level?

So say you shoot at 20 yards and you get a slight right tear with your bare shaft do you put a twist in right side and take out one in the left? I mean maybe even a half a twist?

Vice verse for a left tear?

What if cams are synced you get a tail high or tail low at 2” but dead on at close range? Do you move your rest up or down?

How and what do your guys do? Are you yoke tuning your tears out? Or are you rest adjusting your tears out? Are y’all setting your arrow 13/16” off the riser middle of the arrow? Are you setting bottom of arrow through middle of rear Berger hole?

Just curious to others and especially ontargets tuning method?

I am amazed at how I can get a tear at close range and a bullet hole at 20 or vice versa! Do you also shoot a fletched arrow through paper at 20 yards?

Have you ever got your broad heads flying amazing and then you shoot through paper and have a nasty tear? I’ve had this happen....

Please take the time to write step by step how you do what you do!

I know we all have unique ways we get to where we get and some are more ocd then others!


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Discussion Starter #18
Sorry, really don’t have the time for all the breakdown response. However, I’ve had several Bowtech threads and tuning in general on here that I’m sure you could search.


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Discussion Starter #19
String stop needs to be improved, that’s about the only thing I dislike so far. Now that the cams are parallel for pre lean this lines the aimstring up just off center so it’s not hitting square per say on the string stop. With no adjustments and it fell apart anyways I decided to ditch it.
This is a much better option and hits dead center of it.




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String stop needs to be improved, that’s about the only thing I dislike so far. Now that the cams are parallel for pre lean this lines the aimstring up just off center so it’s not hitting square per say on the string stop. With no adjustments and it fell apart anyways I decided to ditch it.
This is a much better option and hits dead center of it.




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OR a CHL custom stopper... :)
 
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