Got the brackets from summit, but still wanting to know about what windows you all have used and any blueprints or advice to keep it fairly protected from the elements inside

 

I got my idea from a commercially available blind and made it out of plexiglass and cedar. Basically, make a 3-sided outside frame (no bottom) with channels in it for the plexiglass. Connect webbing to the middle bottom on the plexiglass with a small bolt and washers. Bring the webbing inside and down from the window opening. Pulling the webbing down raises the window closed. Releasing the webbing allows the window to lower. Use some form of a bracket/footman loop to contain the webbing on the window sill and have a way to secure the webbing when pulled tight. I reused webbing that had metal clips on the end and simply put a screw in the wall to hold it tight. Use some foam weatherstripping on the backside of the plexiglass to seal it up nice and tight. Let me know if that makes sense or if you need more info.

 

Checkout deer view windows


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Saw those, they look nice, have any experience?
Also looking to get some advice to make this baby stay dry and free of problems, like what to seal windows, door, corners, etc with

 

You go as simple as making a plywood jig to router the finish size and attach with a piano hinge . They sell the foam insulation strips with the peel off backer to stick them in place. Hardest part is not fracturing the plexiglass which shouldn't be a problem using a router.

 

I built mine on a trailer last year for portability - I can easily back my ATV up to it and move it if/when necessary. Also gives me a few feet of elevation, a nice feature with the snow we get late season. Built out of 2 X 3's and OSB. I went 7' X 7' x 7' and angled the corners for extra shooting angles. Easily sits 2 comfortably, as I let my buddy take his kids out in it. Windows are 1'W X 3'H, and I set the height for shooting either standing or sitting. For windows, I ordered the shoot thru camo mesh on Amazon, and bought screen frames from the local DIY store, cut and assembled them then screwed them on to the outside. On the inside I cut plexiglass and used plastic hinges so they are silent when opening/closing. I used the stick on foam insulation around the inside frame to seal out the cold and wind when closed, and used toggle clamps to secure them when closed. As long as the blind is level, they stay open just fine.

 

I built mine on a trailer last year for portability - I can easily back my ATV up to it and move it if/when necessary. Also gives me a few feet of elevation, a nice feature with the snow we get late season. Built out of 2 X 3's and OSB. I went 7' X 7' x 7' and angled the corners for extra shooting angles. Easily sits 2 comfortably, as I let my buddy take his kids out in it. Windows are 1'W X 3'H, and I set the height for shooting either standing or sitting. For windows, I ordered the shoot thru camo mesh on Amazon, and bought screen frames from the local DIY store, cut and assembled them then screwed them on to the outside. On the inside I cut plexiglass and used plastic hinges so they are silent when opening/closing. I used the stick on foam insulation around the inside frame to seal out the cold and wind when closed, and used toggle clamps to secure them when closed. As long as the blind is level, they stay open just fine.
View attachment 6592903 View attachment 6592905 View attachment 6592907

Nice, what did you do to those inside walls? Did you do more plywood on the inside, if so, why?

 

Damn ,that looks up to code.

 

With the high winds and heavy snow we get at times, it needs to be sturdy!

 

That's what we used. Work great. good quality windows.

 

Here is mine, I used Deer View Windows and it worked out great. I angled the sides and mine is 8'x6'.

 

Here is mine, I used Deer View Windows and it worked out great. I angled the sides and mine is 8'x6'. View attachment 6593477 View attachment 6593479 View attachment 6593481

Very nice!

 

I also used 4X8 foot sections (qty 2 cut down) of the thick rubber floor mats used for horse stalls to deaden sound. It really does a great job as I can walk around with no sound if I have to move to a different window. It is elevated 8 feet.

 

Sent OP a PM...
Shadowhunter Blinds sells Window Kits; Archery, Crossbow and Firearms Models. That are Moveable and can keep the weather, rodents and bugs out in the off seasons...

Just need to build the blind so the windows fit and work...

LFM

 

Did you guys use all treated plywood for the outside? And the inside studs were they treated as well or did you just use regular white wood studs or something else?

 

I used regular white wood studs and OSB on the outside. Once built, I put a good coat of quality exterior house paint as a base for the camo paint. If I build anymore, I would use plywood instead of the OSB, but wouldn't spend the extra $$ on treated.

 

I would probably use steel studs for the framing, 1/4 cedar plywood for the walls and a strong but lightweight flat roof that over hung the sides by at least 3'

start some vegetation growing in bales of straw on the roof that will creep over the hang. In a few years it will be naturally concealed.

I wouldn't paint it, just let it weather. Plant some white pine trees around it. Use clear greenhouse plastic sheeting for the windows, shoot through it.

Solid foam insulation in walls, use black anti fatigue mats on the floor. They will deaden all sound and keep your feet warm

Treated lumber is only needed when wood is in contact with the ground and I probably wouldn't use posts at the corners, just a large center one like a tree. If needed I'd cut a tree and use it to angle brace the house. Might even cut the tree first and build the house around it, but probably just wait for the pines to stiffen it up.

Take some pictures of the area and create a house that matches the environment.

 

So the non treated plywood as the outside will be ok with the rain and elements without any paint or finish or anything on it?

Where do you get these “black anti fatigue floor mats?”

 

Do your self a favor and buy pre framed windows from one of the hunting window mtg. I bout a large piece of plexiglass thinking same thing you were is I could make my own and was I wrong. That stuff is expensive and by the time you add hinges and everything I was close to the cost of what pre framed 1x3 windows were. Plus those are going to be sealed tighter most likely.

 

I am ordering from deerview windows! Thanks

 

I used regular 2x4 non treated studs and plywood for the walls. On the roof and floor I used treated. Floor 3/4 inch and I used 3/4 horse stall rubber mats and it deadens all the noise. On the roof it was 1/2 treated covered in Aluminum roofing sheets with a minimum of 4" overhang. I painted the exterior with exterior house paint. I insulated the windows and all seams. The walls I did not insulate because once in the field here in Ohio in the late season it isn't like a house that is warm when you walk in. A buddy heater has it toasty in about 20-30 minutes, and that is in single digit weather. I used DeerView windows, very quiet and easy to install. By the way I found the rubber mats at a local horse supply store. They were 20 bucks a piece cause they were blemished. I looked through the lot and found two with no damage (there we a lot of perfect ones). Cashmans in Delaware, Ohio is where I picked em up.

 

Update, everything is going well I’m going to post pics at the end when I am all done of the whole build. My main issue is the roof... I want to do shingles, but as cheap as possible. Do I just staple on the paper and then start at the bottom with the shingles....but how do I end at the top? Do I have to put something covering it, use drip edges, or something like that?

 

Since you are using shingles, I would put down a layer of tar paper for waterproofing. No need to use a drip edge, but overhang the shingles 1" - 1 1/2". On mine I just put a piece of 12" flex seal tape on the crown, and then a few coats of the liquid flex seal over the whole thing. It was fine all last winter, still can't get to it to inspect it for this year.

 

Is it a Trussed Roof or just a Slant Roof? Depends. I have done both I just curl the Shingles over front and rear of a Slant Roof on a trussed roof I used Drip Edge on all for Sides to try and cut out any leaks... I found decent Shingle deals at Menards they also have Drip Edge, roofing nails Etc... I put a bead of Silicone Caulk between the roof sheeting and the drip edge... Trying to keep any and all rain, ice / snow out.
LFM

 

Also, I am building in the shop and plan to put the 12 foot legs onto the elevators at the end, how did y’all erect your finished product in the field?

 

Unless you have a lot of elevation 8 ft is plenty. All of ours are 8 with the exception of one being 10. Ours are 5x6 with window layout almost the same as a ******* blind. We used regular plywood with an extra heavy coat of exterior paint we also did 2 full sheets of plywood as a roof and let it overhang. This keeps most of the weather off the walls. I have had it up since 2015 with no peeling except on the front window ledge so we added a piece of aluminum flashing bent over the window. Most of them have carpet in them but plan on getting rubber mats from harbor freight to replace them.

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Built it modular added legs to the platform stood it up and then put everything together.

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Stood my 8-footer up with a loader bucket on a tractor.

If you dont have access to that, you need 4 or 5 guys, a rope and a truck or ATV. Set it up on the rails of a utility trailer, run the rope thru the windows and tie off to an atv or truck. Get it started towards upright tilting it by hand, then finish it with the ATV. You're going to need some help regardless.

 

Where I setup mine we could access with my son's Jeep Cherokee. We attached the 4x4 legs to the elevators and 4 of us pushed it up while the Jeep pulled it. It was 6x4 I think and REALLY heavy. Not sure how we would have lifted it up without a Jeep or tractor.