Gold Tip put out some tuning charts a few years back that make it pretty simple for the average hunter/archer to tune their bows. These are for the modern era. I take no credit for these charts, but have used them over and over again to rectify situations and issues I’ve had. It would be nice if this could be made a “Sticky” for all to reference. Good luck and happy hunting!

 

Nock Left - Broadhead Misses Right

• Broadhead hitting right is the same as bareshafts hitting right or a tail left tear.
• Tighten Left Yoke
• Loosen Right Yoke
• Rest Right
• Spine too Weak
• Shim Cam(s) to the Left
• Crank flex guard out for less sideways string pressure / less string clearance.

Nock Right - Broadhead misses Left

• Broadhead hitting left is the same as bareshafts hitting left or a tail right tear.
• Tighten Right Yoke
• Loosen Left Yoke
• Rest Left
• Spine too Stiff
• Shim Cam(s) to the Right
• Crank down flex guard for more sideways string pressure / more string clearance.

Nock High - Broadhead Misses Low

• Visualize an arrow pointed down - it will miss low as a bare shaft or broadhead
• Raise the rest up to correct
• Or, lower nocking point & D-loop
• Or, tighten control cable to bring bottom cam ahead
• Or, lengthen buss cable to bring top cam back towards even or hitting behind bottom cam

Nock Low - Broadhead Misses High

• Visualize an arrow pointed up - it will miss high as a bare shaft or broadhead
• Lower the rest down to correct
• Or, raise nocking point & D-loop
• Or, tighten buss cable to bring top cam ahead
• Or, loosen control cable to bring bottom cam behind

Thanks to Brendan @ Rockslide.

 

That's what the charts say.

 

IMHO people are afraid to move the rests. I use to be that way.....you think man I don't want to mess up my tune and make it worse so they move the rest a little bit one way and stop.

I got frustrated one day decades ago and moved the rest a LOT in one direction ( I was convinced I needed to go) and they got worse so then I moved it a LOT in the other direction and the BH & FT's swapped sides. Ok the light bulb came on at that moment.

So it hit me if one direction made the BH right of the filed tip and the other extreme made them left of the field tips then obviously the right spot is in-between those points somewhere..........I just have to find it...........so I moved it in little increments until I did.

If they never swaps sides (L&R or Up & Down) .......that's when you have contact, form issues, cams sync issues etc etc etc......but don't start being overwhelmed and confused....start easy and go from there.

 

Exactly.

When I first got into archery - I always had the Pro Shop work on the bow.

But for some odd reason - there tune never matched my tune. I came to the conclusion that the best way to hammer down what you want - whether it's a bullet hole, broadheads grouping, etc - is to LEARN and to do it yourself.

Yeah - I've screwed things up in the past as a "noob". I have: burnt my string trying to burn serving after tying a nock. I've had an instance where my cable wasn't all the way in the valley of my roller guard after un pressing the bow. And others...

But it's rewarding learning, having troubles, and troubleshooting - and then getting the results YOU want.

Plus - that Pro Shop was like a 40min drive both ways...

 

One thing people need to remember when using these charts is there are steps to complete before these. Always make sure your cams/bows are in time/spec, you don’t have fletching contact, or have major form issues.

 

One thing people need to remember when using these charts is that there are steps to complete before these. Always make sure your cams/bows are in time/spec, you don’t have fletching contact, or have major form issues.

Nock fit on the string and nock pinch also.
So many times I have seen guys beat their brains out tuning, and the smallest things are not done right.

 

 

#1 - make sure you don't have fletch contact. Then tune according to this chart.. this chart is your only real reference needed. Paper Tune = Bareshaft Tune = Broadhead Tune. Personally I make sure my bareshaft is remotely close then I skip to the end goal. Making my broadhead fly with my field tips.

I also agree with the sentiment that moving your rest within 1/8 or a little more is no big deal.

 

Not a bad idea to also include the cause and affect relationship related to torque and how that affects bareshaft/broadhead flight.

IME,
Torquing to the right (pointing the front stabilizer right) induces nock right flight and vice versa.

 

Not a bad idea to also include the cause and affect relationship related to torque and how that affects bareshaft/broadhead flight.

IME,
Torquing to the right (pointing the front stabilizer right) induces nock right flight and vice versa.

 

Not a bad idea to also include the cause and affect relationship related to torque and how that affects bareshaft/broadhead flight.

IME,
Torquing to the right (pointing the front stabilizer right) induces nock right flight and vice versa.

I think all we are really doing is torque tuning our bows so the bare shafts and broadheads land with the field points.

 

Does this apply to lefty's as well?

 

Yes. Paper tuning is the same regardless.

 

I think sometimes too, people are reluctant to adjust cam timing because either the cables are in the recommended timing marks on the cam, or they haven’t put it on a draw board and been fanatical about getting both cables to hit the stops at the same time.

Don’t overlook speeding up or slowing down a cam to move the nock low/high issues.


Semper Fi,
Mike

 

I think sometimes too, people are reluctant to adjust cam timing because either the cables are in the recommended timing marks on the cam, or they haven’t put it on a draw board and been fanatical about getting both cables to hit the stops at the same time.

Don’t overlook speeding up or slowing down a cam to move the nock low/high issues.


Semper Fi,
Mike

Too other extent, a lot of people don’t have the equipment to make all of those adjustments, or the new timing adjustable bows. They take it to a shop, get it timed (hopefully), and initially setup (to hopefully close). We all know the roll of the dice on that. The rest adjustments and cable guard adjustments may be all they can do. They can get a good amount of tuning out of the rest itself, if it maintains spec for the bow.

 

Thanks for this info!!

 

Anything that’s helps someone tune their equipment is a good thing. I tune bows all the time and have to think “which way do I move this”. Probably because I am old.

 

This thread reminds me of when I first checked out one of Nuts & Bolts threads on yolk tuning probably over 15 years ago, what a light bulb moment! I had a Mathews bow and I went out and tuned those bare shafts right in the middle, I've learned so much on this site over the years thanks to smart generous Guys like him.

 

Good stuff.
I always start by checking timing marks and exact axle to axle measurements as first steps.

Note- if you skip steps, it can result in frustration

Edit: Ive been shooting a recurve for many years but this is my tuning process;

1. Set the bow to factory specs; cam timing, axle to axle, rest
Cams- most have timing marks now. If not, check on a draw board at full draw then scribe the cam when they roll over perfectly timed- (no skipping this step)
Confirm Axle to axle measurement- factory distance is a perfect cable and string setup
Rest- its usually 13/16” in the new compounds but its designed to shoot at factory distance. Dropaway rests need to be timed to come up late

2. arrow; Make sure your arrows arent underspined. A over spine arrow tunes well in a modern compound and gives you a more durable arrow. I’ve had the 8gpi and under shafts not hold up well. Look at 9 or 10 gpi min for a hunt arrow shaft.
Spin check arrows for perfect straightness and nok tightness. A tiny wobble and your BHs won’t group.

3. Set string loop with a tiny spacer ( wraps of floss or thread on the inside of the loop, one side is fine) so the loop isnt tight on the nok. The strategy here is not to have the loop itself applying up/down pressure on the arrow nok. Nok pinch is bad.

At this point you have multiple options for arrow tune; shooting a bareshaft with FPs, shoot paper, or just shoot BHs and FPs. Follow the charts in the OP.

Worth noting;
Paper tune with FPs is only 1/2 tuned

If your BHs dont hit with FPs, the BH arrow is telling you your arrows are coming out of the bow cockeyed. When the BH arrow hits with FPs, thats when your arrows are truly coming out of the bow perfectly straight.

When BHs aren’t perfect:
1. If the above steps are done and BHs still don’t hit with FPs its worth experimenting with your form and grip before you start moving stuff. Sometimes its just a minor grip change. Check form alignment.

2. check for fletch contact with powder.

3. Bow Adjustments; It usually takes tiny movements to get it right. That can either be accomplished by adjusting yokes, shimming cams, twisting the Yokes or tiny 1/32” rest moves. If you move your rest more than about 3/16” from factory recommended setting, something else is wrong…it doesnt take that much.

Rest adjustments are tricky. when I BH tune; shoot BHs and FPs for groups- I typically chase the FP group ( move rest toward the FP group) in 1/32” incriments. This usually works…but if not….(and you have checked all of the other factors above) I have had it where a paper tuned for FP was past the perfect setting- over shoot the adjustment- and to keep chasing FPs with my rest made it worse, go back the opposite direction a tiny bit.

Key Point is; its never much past factory recommended setting for your rest.


I probably forgot something…but thats essentially my process. If you skip a step….or have a form flaw especially alignment…or are shooting arrows that don’t spin perfect….you will not get that bow to tune.

I hope that helps….Best wishes to my bowhunting brothers….

It sounds like a lot ^ but its one of those things thats worth getting your arms around, understanding the factors in perfect arrow flight. Your bow will be quieter, faster, smoother…and more forgiving of a form error in the woods.
.

 

What distance do you typically tune broadheads and field points?

 

Some good information in this thread - thank you for sharing


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

Great post and info!

 

Tuning is a worthy exercise. Anyone who has done it will tell you the same….its a revelation.

I know many bowhunters that thought they were shooting well( untuned) and after the tuning process they were surprised at how pinpoint accurate they actually were- the untuned bow was holding them back.

To add;
We get a lot of guys posting on AT that are starting in the middle of the tuning process, skipping steps.

That might work…but if your cams are off…or your ATA ( axle to axle) …or you have fletch contact….or form issues….you can move your rest all you want and never get it to tune.

Form;
Form plays a big part, for example; I can be perfectly tuned…then vary my grip and shoot a bareshaft and it flys terrible. Its worth trying different grip positions before moving a bunch of stuff around- heck, you bow might be tuned and you don’t know it.

The problems I’ve seen most for bows that won’t tune:

1) under spined arrows- guys following these 3 decades old charts. If you are in the supposed sweet spot on a chart…you still might be underspined in a hunt arrow with a longer than field point tip Broadhead. A BH affects spine more than a FP.
Go one size stiffer…it works.

2) Guys moving their rest too much. From your Bows designated center shot, if you go more than a 1/16” and its not tuning….….you probably went too far or there is something else going on with your form or cams. Move your rest in 1/32” increments.

3) Guys paper testing FPs and think they are done. Nope, thats the 1/2 way point If you are going to shoot BHs.

Lastly, tuning is about the most frustrating thing on the planet when you are new to it- we have all been there. The reason is there are many moving parts with shooting a perfect arrow. Its best to make one tiny change…then check. Frustrated, step away.

Know that tuning is a sum of the parts… many times its a couple tiny things that are making it not tune. Sometimes we get lucky…and its one thing…that means you are doing everything else right- bingo.

Best wishes to all my bowhunting brothers…things can get adversarial on forums…lets stick together to defend our sport.

.

 

Tuning is a worthy exercise. Anyone who has done it will tell you the same….its a revelation.

I know many bowhunters that thought they were shooting well( untuned) and after the tuning process they were surprised at how pinpoint accurate they actually were- the untuned bow was holding them back.

To add;
We get a lot of guys posting on AT that are starting in the middle of the tuning process, skipping steps.

That might work…but if your cams are off…or your ATA ( axle to axle) …or you have fletch contact….or form issues….you can move your rest all you want and never get it to tune.

Form;
Form plays a big part, for example; I can be perfectly tuned…then vary my grip and shoot a bareshaft and it flys terrible. Its worth trying different grip positions before moving a bunch of stuff around- heck, you bow might be tuned and you don’t know it.

The problems I’ve seen most for bows that won’t tune:

1) under spined arrows- guys following these 3 decades old charts. If you are in the supposed sweet spot on a chart…you still might be underspined in a hunt arrow with a longer than field point tip Broadhead. A BH affects spine more than a FP.
Go one size stiffer…it works.

2) Guys moving their rest too much. From your Bows designated center shot, if you go more than a 1/16” and its not tuning….….you probably went too far or there is something else going on with your form or cams. Move your rest in 1/32” increments.

3) Guys paper testing FPs and think they are done. Nope, thats the 1/2 way point If you are going to shoot BHs.

Lastly, tuning is about the most frustrating thing on the planet when you are new to it- we have all been there. The reason is there are many moving parts with shooting a perfect arrow. Its best to make one tiny change…then check. Frustrated, step away.

Know that tuning is a sum of the parts… many times its a couple tiny things that are making it not tune. Sometimes we get lucky…and its one thing…that means you are doing everything else right- bingo.

Best wishes to all my bowhunting brothers…things can get adversarial on forums…lets stick together to defend our sport.

.

I couldn’t say it much better. Agree 100%

 

Hi,

when i get my field points an broadheads hitting together...

it's like Magic

don't ya lov it when a plan comes together !

 

 

I know this is an old thread, but coming across a Far Side when you’re not expecting it😂 It’s a beautiful thing

 

Tag

 

Thanks for posting this! I've never tuned my own bow but it's about time.

 

Same here. Always wanted to but afraid I would really screw something up. I probably will, but I’m trying it.

 

It is satisfying getting your bow tuned perfectly. If something you do makes your issue worse, just undo it. I always make sure to change one thing at a time and in small increments.

 

Thanks for this

 

Tagged for my new strings

 

JIC the new guys arent aware-
Don’t even try to tune a bow until you have between 50-100 shots on it. Let it stretch first.
..

 

I can agree with the Gold Tip adjustment recommendations for high and low tears: you are moving the field point in the direction required to meet the holes created by the fletchings. But From what perspective are the recommendations for left and right tears:

(1) From the back of the bow as you grip the bow and look at the bow as if you were about to take a shot (with the string between you and the riser)

or

(2) As you face the riser (from the front of the bow) with the string away from you on the far side of the riser?

If the answer is (1), the recommended rest adjustments make no sense to me because you are moving the field point away from the fletching tears.

 

I can agree with the Gold Tip adjustment recommendations for high and low tears: you are moving the field point in the direction required to meet the holes created by the fletchings. But From what perspective are the recommendations for left and right tears:

(1) From the back of the bow as you grip the bow and look at the bow as if you were about to take a shot (with the string between you and the riser)

or

(2) As you face the riser (from the front of the bow) with the string away from you on the far side of the riser?

If the answer is (1), the recommended rest adjustments make no sense to me because you are moving the field point away from the fletching tears.

Yes, it’s #1, and yes it is correct and works. The best I can say is go test it out for yourself. I’m not a paper guy though. I go basic setup and recommended settings, then I go straight bare shafts and/or broad heads with a field tip, usually broad heads because I’m a bowhunter. I tried to find an older thread of mine where I tested and took pictures of the results, but it was buried deep and I couldn’t find it. It was with broad heads.