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Broad Head Tuning - Simplified Tuning 101 - for Modern Compound bows

8280 Views 44 Replies 22 Participants Last post by  VizslaCopper701
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Discussion Starter · #2 · (Edited)
Gold Tip put out some tuning charts a few years back that make it pretty simple for the average hunter/archer to tune their bows. These are for the modern era. I take no credit for these charts, but have used them over and over again to rectify situations and issues I’ve had. It would be nice if this could be made a “Sticky” for all to reference. Good luck and happy hunting!
 

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Nock Left - Broadhead Misses Right
  • Broadhead hitting right is the same as bareshafts hitting right or a tail left tear.
  • Tighten Left Yoke
  • Loosen Right Yoke
  • Rest Right
  • Spine too Weak
  • Shim Cam(s) to the Left
  • Crank flex guard out for less sideways string pressure / less string clearance.

Nock Right - Broadhead misses Left
  • Broadhead hitting left is the same as bareshafts hitting left or a tail right tear.
  • Tighten Right Yoke
  • Loosen Left Yoke
  • Rest Left
  • Spine too Stiff
  • Shim Cam(s) to the Right
  • Crank down flex guard for more sideways string pressure / more string clearance.

Nock High - Broadhead Misses Low
  • Visualize an arrow pointed down - it will miss low as a bare shaft or broadhead
  • Raise the rest up to correct
  • Or, lower nocking point & D-loop
  • Or, tighten control cable to bring bottom cam ahead
  • Or, lengthen buss cable to bring top cam back towards even or hitting behind bottom cam

Nock Low - Broadhead Misses High
  • Visualize an arrow pointed up - it will miss high as a bare shaft or broadhead
  • Lower the rest down to correct
  • Or, raise nocking point & D-loop
  • Or, tighten buss cable to bring top cam ahead
  • Or, loosen control cable to bring bottom cam behind


Thanks to Brendan @ Rockslide.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Nock Left - Broadhead Misses Right
  • Broadhead hitting right is the same as bareshafts hitting right or a tail left tear.
  • Tighten Left Yoke
  • Loosen Right Yoke
  • Rest Right
  • Spine too Weak
  • Shim Cam(s) to the Left
  • Crank flex guard out for less sideways string pressure / less string clearance.

Nock Right - Broadhead misses Left
  • Broadhead hitting left is the same as bareshafts hitting left or a tail right tear.
  • Tighten Right Yoke
  • Loosen Left Yoke
  • Rest Left
  • Spine too Stiff
  • Shim Cam(s) to the Right
  • Crank down flex guard for more sideways string pressure / more string clearance.

Nock High - Broadhead Misses Low
  • Visualize an arrow pointed down - it will miss low as a bare shaft or broadhead
  • Raise the rest up to correct
  • Or, lower nocking point & D-loop
  • Or, tighten control cable to bring bottom cam ahead
  • Or, lengthen buss cable to bring top cam back towards even or hitting behind bottom cam

Nock Low - Broadhead Misses High
  • Visualize an arrow pointed up - it will miss high as a bare shaft or broadhead
  • Lower the rest down to correct
  • Or, raise nocking point & D-loop
  • Or, tighten buss cable to bring top cam ahead
  • Or, loosen control cable to bring bottom cam behind


Thanks to Brendan @ Rockslide.
That's what the charts say.
 

· The Impartial Archer
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IMHO people are afraid to move the rests. I use to be that way.....you think man I don't want to mess up my tune and make it worse so they move the rest a little bit one way and stop.

I got frustrated one day decades ago and moved the rest a LOT in one direction ( I was convinced I needed to go) and they got worse so then I moved it a LOT in the other direction and the BH & FT's swapped sides. Ok the light bulb came on at that moment.

So it hit me if one direction made the BH right of the filed tip and the other extreme made them left of the field tips then obviously the right spot is in-between those points somewhere..........I just have to find it...........so I moved it in little increments until I did.

If they never swaps sides (L&R or Up & Down) .......that's when you have contact, form issues, cams sync issues etc etc etc......but don't start being overwhelmed and confused....start easy and go from there.
 

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IMHO people are afraid to move the rests. I use to be that way.....you think man I don't want to mess up my tune and make it worse so they move the rest a little bit one way and stop.

I got frustrated one day decades ago and moved the rest a LOT in one direction ( I was convinced I needed to go) and they got worse so then I moved it a LOT in the other direction and the BH & FT's swapped sides. Ok the light bulb came on at that moment.

So it hit me if one direction made the BH right of the filed tip and the other extreme made them left of the field tips then obviously the right spot is in-between those points somewhere..........I just have to find it...........so I moved it in little increments until I did.

If they never swaps sides (L&R or Up & Down) .......that's when you have contact, form issues, cams sync issues etc etc etc......but don't start being overwhelmed and confused....start easy and go from there.
Exactly.

When I first got into archery - I always had the Pro Shop work on the bow.

But for some odd reason - there tune never matched my tune. I came to the conclusion that the best way to hammer down what you want - whether it's a bullet hole, broadheads grouping, etc - is to LEARN and to do it yourself.

Yeah - I've screwed things up in the past as a "noob". I have: burnt my string trying to burn serving after tying a nock. I've had an instance where my cable wasn't all the way in the valley of my roller guard after un pressing the bow. And others...

But it's rewarding learning, having troubles, and troubleshooting - and then getting the results YOU want.

Plus - that Pro Shop was like a 40min drive both ways...
 

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#1 - make sure you don't have fletch contact. Then tune according to this chart.. this chart is your only real reference needed. Paper Tune = Bareshaft Tune = Broadhead Tune. Personally I make sure my bareshaft is remotely close then I skip to the end goal. Making my broadhead fly with my field tips.

I also agree with the sentiment that moving your rest within 1/8 or a little more is no big deal.
 

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Not a bad idea to also include the cause and affect relationship related to torque and how that affects bareshaft/broadhead flight.

IME,
Torquing to the right (pointing the front stabilizer right) induces nock right flight and vice versa.
 

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Not a bad idea to also include the cause and affect relationship related to torque and how that affects bareshaft/broadhead flight.

IME,
Torquing to the right (pointing the front stabilizer right) induces nock right flight and vice versa.
 

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IMHO people are afraid to move the rests. I use to be that way.....you think man I don't want to mess up my tune and make it worse so they move the rest a little bit one way and stop.

I got frustrated one day decades ago and moved the rest a LOT in one direction ( I was convinced I needed to go) and they got worse so then I moved it a LOT in the other direction and the BH & FT's swapped sides. Ok the light bulb came on at that moment.

So it hit me if one direction made the BH right of the filed tip and the other extreme made them left of the field tips then obviously the right spot is in-between those points somewhere..........I just have to find it...........so I moved it in little increments until I did.

If they never swaps sides (L&R or Up & Down) .......that's when you have contact, form issues, cams sync issues etc etc etc......but don't start being overwhelmed and confused....start easy and go from there.
yep, those charts are a good starting point....but sometimes you have to move it the other way instead
 

· Lou & Jode
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yep, those charts are a good starting point....but sometimes you have to move it the other way instead
Yes, with my older Elites the cams leaned bad at full draw so moving the rest to the left to correct the right tear or bare shaft/broadhead left POI did not work, you had to go the other way to correct it. With other bows that didn't lean at full draw (the ones I could yolk tune) the charts ^^ worked fine.
 

· Lou & Jode
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Not a bad idea to also include the cause and affect relationship related to torque and how that affects bareshaft/broadhead flight.

IME,
Torquing to the right (pointing the front stabilizer right) induces nock right flight and vice versa.
I think all we are really doing is torque tuning our bows so the bare shafts and broadheads land with the field points.
 

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Yes, with my older Elites the cams leaned bad at full draw so moving the rest to the left to correct the right tear or bare shaft/broadhead left POI did not work, you had to go the other way to correct it. With other bows that didn't lean at full draw (the ones I could yolk tune) the charts ^^ worked fine.
yep, just wanted to throw that out there to keep folks from being too dogmatic
 

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So, with really bad cam lean, don’t you think you should shim your cams, to get your bow into better spec, as mentioned above, so you can follow the proper charts?
i wasn't meaning to make that point by agreeing in a certain sense

what i mean is that the standard approach is good to know and should be tried first but if it does not work then prior to doing anything else, simply try moving the rest in the other direction and see if that works because it sometimes does

edit: but of course keep your eye out for cam lean and other extreme situations from the start....cam lean or anything else doesn't factor into what i said
 

· Lou & Jode
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So, with really bad cam lean, don’t you think you should shim your cams, to get your bow into better spec, as mentioned above, so you can follow the proper charts?
You can shim them but when you are drawing some of the older binary cams (both cables on one side) at 31" they still lean bad. They don't follow the charts.
 
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