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Discussion Starter #21
You may be responsible for the deaths of several more hooved animals this year. :eek: :wink:
That's guilt I can live with:dancing:
 

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Discussion Starter #22
After the recent poll I ran called Bowhunter Syrvey, I'm certainly glad to see someone follow up with a post like this. There were FAR too many people (20%+)that simply attached their BH and hoped for the best. Thanks Doc!!


BTW- Here's that survey http://www.archerytalk.com/vb/showthread.php?t=535188&highlight=Bowhunter+Survey
Ted,
Thanks for the link. I hadn't seen that previously, but I'll bet AT users don't represent the vast majority. I know many people say Broadhead tune?:confused: They buy them the night before and screw those nice shiny heads on...never even consider a different POI.
 

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nice job doc, seeing as how I migrated north I would love to shoot with you sometime, you got it going on bro....

Dan
 

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Great thread!

I was broadhead tuning the other day but had to stop short. Doesn't matter anyway. I'm going to buy the MZE today and install that. No more NAP Quicktune 2000.:blob1:
 

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Excellent graphical help, Doc! That's going to help a lot of people on here, because all of us have to go through those exact same steps to insure that we can hit what we aim at in the coming months. As dedicated archers, we're always tweaking, changing, and playing around with our bows as well as working them hard and damaging them in the woods. These steps must be done every time anything changes a tiny amount. Great work!
 

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Discussion Starter #28

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Discussion Starter #30
Been thinking about getting one of those. How did it handle the BHs?
Quite well. I went and shot the Strikers some more today (shredded some Blazers in the process:cry:). Rinehart guarantees the target from pass-throughs for one full year including broadhead use:eek: Those Strikers sure do try to get through it, but no dice yet.
 

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Discussion Starter #31
I received several PM's asking how close is close enough. This all depends on your shooting ability. If you normally shoot 3 inch groups with field points at 30 yards and can keep your broadhead in that 3 inches, then you are good-to-go. If you can only hold a 6 inch group, then your BH's should be in that 6 inch area. I like to get them this close though.:)
 

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Doc, how do you know whether to move the rest or the sight? Why is it that the BH and FP land in different locations but by moving the sight and rest they eventually land in the same place? Is that the initual tuning or done after you paper tuned? Do you shoot through paper afterwards to make sure that the arrow is flying straight? At what distance shout you put the paper at when shooting through? Sorry for all the questions but I am trying to become a better archer and still have a lot to learn.
 

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Discussion Starter #33
Doc, how do you know whether to move the rest or the sight? Why is it that the BH and FP land in different locations but by moving the sight and rest they eventually land in the same place? Is that the initual tuning or done after you paper tuned? Do you shoot through paper afterwards to make sure that the arrow is flying straight? At what distance shout you put the paper at when shooting through? Sorry for all the questions but I am trying to become a better archer and still have a lot to learn.
This is a common misconception and area of frustration for many. This is why I posted a step-by-step instruction of what I moved when. The whole goal to BH tuning is to get the same point of impact (POI) for your BH and FP's. Therefore moving your sight is not going to tune anything. You adjust your rest until your BH and FP's are grouping together. It doesn't matter if they are hitting where you are aiming (aiming at center X the whole time), only if they are hitting together. Once you get them to hit together, you are BH tuned and now it's time to set your sight for their POI. After you get them to group together and adjust your sight to the proper POI...you are done...good-to-go. Forget paper. If you go back to paper, you are just going to have to BH tune again. If you are going to paper tune, do this to get things close before BH tuning.
Make sense?
 

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What about walkback tuning? Does this still fit into the equation somewhere, or is it an either/or thing? To me it would seem that broadhead tuning might negate any effects gained from walkback tuning and vice versa...
 

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Discussion Starter #37
What about walkback tuning? Does this still fit into the equation somewhere, or is it an either/or thing? To me it would seem that broadhead tuning might negate any effects gained from walkback tuning and vice versa...
You can walk-back tune prior to BH tuning, but if you are truly BH tuned (done at various distances) then there is no reason to walk-back tune.
If you were to paper tune and then walk-back tune, your BH tuning should only require minimal adjustments. BH's show tuning flaws more so than FP's.
 

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Great post Doc

Awsome info here. Noticed something though....You show BH and FP shots for every shot except for FP #2...Any reason? Or am I just being anal (like my wife tells me when it comes to my hunting stuff)? Great post either way, and a big THANK YOU.
Brad
 

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Discussion Starter #39
Awsome info here. Noticed something though....You show BH and FP shots for every shot except for FP #2...Any reason? Or am I just being anal (like my wife tells me when it comes to my hunting stuff)? Great post either way, and a big THANK YOU.
Brad
Brad thanks. I didn't shoot an FP that round. Just wanted to shoot BH to see how much more adjustment was needed to get it in X. After the BH was center x, then I shot FP's to see how the two were grouping.
 

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Just wondering.

Brad thanks. I didn't shoot an FP that round. Just wanted to shoot BH to see how much more adjustment was needed to get it in X. After the BH was center x, then I shot FP's to see how the two were grouping.
Thanks. I'll be finishing up my BH tuning and sight in this afternoon after work.:wink:
 
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