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Discussion Starter #1
according to this graph

i'm having a stiff spine reaction with my setup, but i wonder if i have weak spine reaction if i'm lefty ?

what do you think ?

this is my setup and OnTarget software says i'm ok
- 27" st epic 400, with montecs 100gn fletched with 3, 2" Flex-Fletch flash vane.
- lefty x-force 63#, 28.5 DL,

i found the graph at http://www.redhawk-archery.com/bh-tuning.html

thanks for your help
 

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You would be correct in your assesment. Everything is opposite if you're a lefty. This graph is for right handed shooters. Check out Easton's tuning guide. It explains how everything is reversed for lefties.
 

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Have you tried adjusting your arrow rest so as to move the broadhead arrows towards the field point arrows?

Also, have you made sure your bow is shooting bullet holes through paper first? You want to make sure there are no adjustment errors to start with such as cam lean.

I've shot the same spined arrows, with same weight broadheads, and same poundage bow and got the broadhead arrows to group with the field point arrows just by making adjustments to the arrow rest. The only thing different is I use 2" blazer vanes with a little offset (which is critical for controling broadheads).

Please let me know if this makes any difference. It would be better than buying new arrows.

On another note, now I always get heavier spined arrows. Compound bows seem to shoot them just fine whereas too-light spined arrows may have problems that are difficult to fix without making changes you really don't want to make (like lowering your poundage or getting lighter tips).

Ray
 

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Discussion Starter #5
i'm ok now,

i made this adjustments:

1.- Check my arrows for proper aligned BH with an arrow spinner.

2.- Give more vane offset using helical clamp with the bitz jig, it's kind of difficult with these skinny shafts but it's works.

3.- Adjustments to the rest, following the instructions of the easton's guide, and also reading this tread http://www.archerytalk.com/vb/showthread.php?t=539460&highlight=Broadhead+tuning

i was having some doubt about my spine because i'm always tune my bow with the bubble levels and a laser tool (easy eye Eze-Center), and don't want to buy sttifer arrows, i have 2 dozen, still brand new.

i'm ready for the hog hunting now !!

thanks for your comments
 

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i'm always tune my bow with the bubble levels and a laser tool (easy eye Eze-Center)
That static setup is just the starting point. You must get out and shoot some arrows to get it well tuned.

These are the steps I follow:

1) Make sure bow is fully in spec (ATA, BH, cam timing, etc).
2) Set up rest and nock point so all is centered (or appropriate for your bow), then get your sight in the ballpark by eyeballing.
3) Paper tune with a bare shaft until I get bullet holes from 6 feet.
4) Walk back tune with fletched shafts. This is usually good if step 3 went well.
5) Broadhead tune with broadheads on some arrows and field points on others. This usually involves very minor adjustments to get field points and broadheads hitting at the same point out to 60 yards.


Ray
 

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These are the steps I follow:

1) Make sure bow is fully in spec (ATA, BH, cam timing, etc).
2) Set up rest and nock point so all is centered (or appropriate for your bow), then get your sight in the ballpark by eyeballing.
3) Paper tune with a bare shaft until I get bullet holes from 6 feet.
4) Walk back tune with fletched shafts. This is usually good if step 3 went well.
5) Broadhead tune with broadheads on some arrows and field points on others. This usually involves very minor adjustments to get field points and broadheads hitting at the same point out to 60 yards.


Ray
I do the exact same procedure as above I just leave out Step 3 and then usually try and get 70-80 yds on my BH tuning, works flawlessly for me.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
do you have a commercial stand for paper tune, or you have a homemade one ? i never paper tune before.

i'm gone a check my bow's spec's, i never do that also.

thanks for your tips.
 

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I made a paper tune rack last weekend. I did it with 1" pvc and the associated t's and 90's. I didn't glue anything and just take it apart when I'm done. 10' lenths of 1" was $3, bought 2 had exactly enough material. Cost me about 10 bucks to make and had it done in less than a half hour.

Nick
 
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