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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
It's taken me 4 days to realise what I've changed on my bow to cause this.
Five months ago my BH and FP were hitting together, But since I shortened the DL 1/2" by swapping the cams, the same arrows are hitting 4" to the right.
I was 29"dl shooting 28" arrows, now 28 1/2"dl shooting 28" arrows, do I shorten the arrows 1/2"?
If I move the rest to the left(broadhead tunning), will that throw my walk back tune out?
 

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The issue is most likely that your increase in draw length has caused your arrows to not match as well in spine. There are a couple things you can do:

Try taking a turn off each limb to lower the bow weight. This could allow for a better spine match.

Add weight to the tail end of the arrow, i.e, heavier nock or fletching or both. This will increase the spine of the arrow.

Decrease the tip weight, this will also increase the spine.

Cut the arrow down to increase spine.

I would have to say that if you just increased the draw 1/2" a decrease of a few pounds in bow weight will fix the issue. You most likely were on the boarder of being weak in spine and the extra efficiency the 1/2" gave you was too much for the arrow to handle. We try to find the most likely arrow spine to match our bows, however sometimes we have to use the tuning nobs (limb bolts) on our bows to get the perfect match. Good luck!
 

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If I understand your post, you went to a shorter draw length. I would suspect the problem has to do with a different cam causing the general tune of the bow to be different. Shortening the DL only 1/2" is only going to affect the draw weight of the bow by a pound or so. You may now have some cam lean or some other little tuning issue. Go back and start the tuning process from scratch.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
The issue is most likely that your increase in draw length has caused your arrows to not match as well in spine. There are a couple things you can do:

Try taking a turn off each limb to lower the bow weight. This could allow for a better spine match.

Add weight to the tail end of the arrow, i.e, heavier nock or fletching or both. This will increase the spine of the arrow.

Decrease the tip weight, this will also increase the spine.

Cut the arrow down to increase spine.

I would have to say that if you just increased the draw 1/2" a decrease of a few pounds in bow weight will fix the issue. You most likely were on the boarder of being weak in spine and the extra efficiency the 1/2" gave you was too much for the arrow to handle. We try to find the most likely arrow spine to match our bows, however sometimes we have to use the tuning nobs (limb bolts) on our bows to get the perfect match. Good luck!
thanks for your reply Spotshy, but I accually shortened the DL, so would I do the opposite.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
If I understand your post, you went to a shorter draw length. I would suspect the problem has to do with a different cam causing the general tune of the bow to be different. Shortening the DL only 1/2" is only going to affect the draw weight of the bow by a pound or so. You may now have some cam lean or some other little tuning issue. Go back and start the tuning process from scratch.
Thanks for the reply Roskoe, I have done a walkback tune, and when I changed the cams everthing was to spec, draw stop timming etc. It's just the BH tune I can't do, because I'm worried it'll throw out my walk balk tune, and I don't want to do that, because I shoot field more than I hunt.
 

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I believe you can fix this problem by twisting the yoke on one side or the other. To keep the timing the same just add a twist on the left side and remove one from the right side. If it gets better you are set,if it gets worse then do the opposite side. Arrows hitting to right means a nock left tear through paper and the experts will tell you which side to shorten. I wouldnt mess with the rest if your centershot is good. I bet when you switched cams the yokes got reversed on the bow.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I believe you can fix this problem by twisting the yoke on one side or the other. To keep the timing the same just add a twist on the left side and remove one from the right side. If it gets better you are set,if it gets worse then do the opposite side. Arrows hitting to right means a nock left tear through paper and the experts will tell you which side to shorten. I wouldnt mess with the rest if your centershot is good. I bet when you switched cams the yokes got reversed on the bow.
I'll give that a try this week end. thanks Bassman.
 
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